While I’m at it I can explain what I meant.
Eager to try the Volvo out last summer I re-used the two of the old Rabbit’s “cooler manifolds”. I only added 4 fresh 2m exhaust pipes and a couple rubbers and tied all of it to the roof rack with bicycle inner tubing. My thinking was to fab a better looking cooler under the rack and add a roof box on top of it - bit more stealth. BUT - 7,000 miles on wood later, nothing happened 
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Ah yes, for Testing Purposes Only… Until it’s a permanent feature.
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@Pelletpower Joep, I didn’t realise we were cluttering Tones thread. Sorry @Tone.
To your question Joep:
“Rules in Sweden, hourly market price or your choice?”
As far as selling your solar electricity, hourly market price is the only option.
However, buying electricity you can choose from a variety of deals. Most utilities offer only fixed price, monthly avarage and hourly market price, but several speculate, “buy ahead”, and offer their deals accordingly.
What about NL?
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We have got a very good arrangement. We use the grid as battery and the surplus from the summer is consumed in the winter. This is the one time politics did something good, it is a form of subsidy and it will end, some day. For the moment a superdeal. Overhere 2021 was a recordyear pv installed, this year the record was broken the 8th month and plussed 20%. Anyway, batteries is a no go from financial view, in your case maybe.
I am looking at the hourly prices but using the grid as a battery is not possible then. For now I found the most expensive price and the company has to pay that price if you deliver. At the moment waiting for the bill/credit. I think one adres is going to pay €800 or more from july to 19e october, and the house/shop even more. Fun, easy lazy money.
For the moment I installed a 10 kWh battery DIY LiFePo4 just for peakshaving. Connection can be brought down from 50A to 25A, that saves €1000 a year, €80 a month. Enough to get me out of my armchair.
The plan is to turn the 4-6 m3 veggie oil into monies this winter. Kind of the same project as Tone, thinkering about off grid if neccesary.
So Tone, back on track
Edit. Didnt even see you moved this JO😀
This is last week. Mostly green (PV), but the blue is coming 
Time for the Lister to go to work. It is finished a few times already , in my head 
All those electronics wont survive off course if SHTF, it is all back to basic then. Dont think about it, just have fun. And if a hobby pays for itself, what more do you want?
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There was talk about it up here a couple years back, but never happened. Right now we sell for spot price (some utilities offer 0.01€/kWh on top), but buy back with an extra 0.06€/kWh energy tax + 25% sales tax on top of the already added tax and everything else 
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@Tone! Finally!
So far I have only put together some stuff laying around, taking up space on my shelves.
As you can see in the video I produced 10-11A (the only belt I had that fitted is old and cracked and I didn’t want to push it). Anyway, these amps should equal about 7kW (~10hp).
I didn’t know exactly where to start, but I reved the Volvo up to about 2200 rpm and hit the switch. The electric motor slowed the Volvo down to 1800 rpm.
My meter display doesn’t show negative power, but my solar app showed ~4kW. It should mean the 3kW missing is reactive power. Time to look for capasitors.
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JO, if you downloaded the document, you can see on page 9 the data for your motor, which has 6 kvar inductive power, but in generator mode it is a bit smaller, because the rotor itself rotates faster and does not need as much excitation, well, however, it would could add capacitors for at least 5 kvar power, for this 3x33 microfarads correspond, which you can find in the next link on page 9.
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Let me add some math, voltage 240V x current 11A = 2.64 kW per phase, you multiply this by 3 and you get a total power of 7.92 kW, so already here we can see that there is almost 4 kW of reactive power, if the solar meter shows correctly.
Wow, I didn’t praise you, you made a very innovative construction of the generator, you don’t see that every day.
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Very interesting, goes along the lines of something I was thinking up.
The generator I tore apart for the chunker has a good gen head still, I was thinking to delete the dodge smog pump and mount the gen head in its place, lawn mower style electric clutch on a flip switch on the dash board. 3500 watt 120v/15a or 250v/20a amp on demand with the truck at idle?
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Just be careful of the harmonic balancer. Steve Unruh has warned they’re only made for roughly 10hp of work. Gotta figure in A/C, Water Pump, Power Steering and Alternator.
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That doesn’t seem right Cody
Power steering pumps take between 5-8 hp to run, ac takes another 3-5, water pump 3-4, alternator can vary hugely depending on electrical load. I cant find a number to back it up, but I think a harmonic damper must be good for at least 30-40 hp, even a old tired wore out rubber one since all these components are running on many vehicles from moment of start up to shut down. There are lots of engine driven compressors that take 10-15hp on the market and widely used on tire service fleets for big air supply, I have driven several of those trucks and they do say to turn off ac and not be driving while using the compressor so it can handle the load properly. In the old days there was also engine driven hydraulic pumps for small dump trucks, that’s gotta take way more then 10hp to run. And with removing the smog pump that is freeing up a few ponies to be used as well
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As far as know the Volvo has a solid 3-belt pully on the crankshaft. I have to check properly tomorrow in daylight.
I removed the AC belt, since the AC doesn’t work anyway, and uttilized that groove for the new generator. Only additional load is alternator and power steering oil pump. All three pull pretty much 120° offset. Only downside is the new generator uses the groove up front.
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When I see a pulley with a rubber insert, I become allergic… I have done this many times on my vehicles, so that I have replaced the rubber with a metal part that I push with a press, but it is good to drill a hole and make a thread between the joints, so the composition is 100%
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Thanks Tone! Looks like I have to make an effort at work 
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This makes me look like the worst boy in class . On the other hand I am glad you found the same numbers. Close to my path now, thanks JO and Tone 
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Joep, “the worst boy in the class”, but this one is good, what can I say, I probably haven’t opened the door to the class yet, all I’ve done so far is just learning, testing, philosophizing, the kilowatt hours produced per wood is just a sample , well, maybe the acquired knowledge is the greatest value.
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All you guys make it look so easy. All new things are a succes at the first attempt. The longer I think about it, the more I stay on the well known path. A WK or Ben design for the Lister.
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This is my destination in 75% of my DOWing. I don’t blame you if you don’t want to hop in and follow me to work.
Sorry for the shaky camera.
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You be careful there JO. In your old job maybe you get a bad paper cut. This job a little more risky 
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That’s true Tom. Superheated 40 bar=580 psi steam will instantly set fire to your pants if only a tiny leak and the steam is completly invisible. We’re told to always carry a folding wodden ruler to use as blind cane. If the ruler catches fire or suddenly is shortened you’d better back off
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