I have an absolutely squeaky clean driving record. Not even a written warning for speeding or illegal turns.
With most US based insurance companies they discount your rates with each policy added.
Here’s my next monthly bill.
My yearly tax on my Mazda was 30 dollars, Buick was 40 dollars and Sierra was 90 dollars iirc.
Keep this in mind my GMC Sierra has the Full Coverage because I’m making payments. Would be 80 dollars by itself from what the lady told me.
Also here in North Carolina if a car is newer than 20 years old it needs an OBD2 And Safety inspection.
Between 20 and 30 just needs Safety Inspection.
If it’s older than 30 it doesn’t need inspections but tax goes up because of that. Just by a little.
And in my county we don’t test for emissions unless it’s something wrong in the OBD2 scan like a bad fuel trim. We never test Diesels emissions in my county.
Also while we are in taxation as a topic, in North Carolina we extract road tax from the price of gasoline. We pay roughly 20 cents more than South Carolina and yet our roads are so much better than theirs, it boggles my mind.
My 2002 Chevy truck that doesn’t see four hundred road miles a year is $1100 for PL and PD. I think that’s public liability and property damage. $135 for license plate tabs. Supposedly you cannot have an uninsured vehicle on your property in the county I live in. I don’t know if that’s state wide or not. I had to move my junker supply to another piece of property I have which is not easily visited by the governmental mafia.
We have something similar but it’s just if the vehicle still has a tag. You get pulled over with a bum tag and it’s an easy ticket for them. They hit you with some serious fees if you cancel insurance and don’t turn the tag in.
Here we have normal tabs, unincorporated Pierce county you do not have to have tabs on every vehicle at your property but if you live in a homeowners association they can make you have tabs on every vehicle you want on top of that where I’m at the township has a road tax that for 1 ton and larger vehicles is $200 per vehicle for any trailer over 10,000 lb is $100 for any 3/4 ton pickup is $100 small two-wheel drive trucks and cars are exempt from the road tax and that tax goes on top of the cost of your yearly tabs
I can keep a vehicle on the property without a license plate, but I have to get a new one for it if I want to take it out on the road. I really wish I had a Dealer’s License to go to auctions and drive any jalopy I want to take home.
My daughter had a 25 year old Corvette Eddie Bauer Special Edition. She put The Classic Car license plates on it. No more buying tabs. I think my 92 Dakota Dakota Truck is a Classic, wouldn’t you think. Drive it to car and truck shows once in a while. More then likely NOT.
Bob’s Classic DOW
Ours is something less than $1200 a year for 7 vehicles, including the dump truck, with two adult drivers and three teenager drivers. Then tags the same a Wayne said.
That is basic liability and does not include the commercial Ice trucks.
Driving record doesn’t affect insurance here, unless you happen to cause an accident. Also, no road tax for my 30+yo vehicles. Newer vehicles depends on weight, power and CO2. Usually $100-500 a year.
Newer heard of tabs/tags. Also, no road tolls in Sweden (only downtown Stockholm).
I think when they say tabs they mean a sticker that goes on the license plate. It’s to show you’re up to date on the tax and inspection.
Tag means license plate.
Also I think for our vehicles in my state we pay a property tax and not necessarily road tax. It actually shows where that money is going to if you get a printout. Mostly public schools in my case.
DOWing every day. A little stickyness to the throttle lately. My guess is a too high % of the bulky spruce-slab chunks I’ve been trying to do away with. Not a noticable difference in power but the charbed’s state fluctuate a bit more than I like.
I emptied another half a gallon of tar yesterday. This gasifier produces nice and runny tar. No need to heat it. I don’t know why.
Day before yesterday, going home from work at 10 pm, I was about to light up and experienced an elefant fart event a la @don_mannes . I put the torch to the hopper opening and expected a normal woof, but instead there was a loud boom. Chunks and charcoal blew several meters up into the air. It didn’t stop raining fuel in quite a long time.
This was the first time in 5 years of everyday driving. With this relativly large drop-box area I’ll let the blower run for a while before I put the torch to the hopper in the future.
With that event the charbed was completly inverted, it was raining and I decided to run dino fuel on my 10 mile trip back home. Next day I parked outof sight and excersized the charbed back to normal.
Oh and, the intake puffs are almost gone now. Don’t really know why. Because of hesitation sympthomes I have adopted a habit of richening the mixture a little at accelleration. Could be part of the explanation. Maybe even the intake valves seal better when they’ve been exposed to some soot.
…which made me think of another event from last week - I had my first intake event. Nothing but blue smoke in the rear view mirror and I completly lost cyl no 4. I limped the last few km back home on three cylinderns and discovered the plug was shorted - gap covered solid with debrie.
Since the angle doesn’t permit looking in past the tb butterfly I loosened the intake to look for soot. I found nothing. The valvestem compartments were completly clean, so were the intake runners. Only buildup I could find was on the downstream side of the throttle plate. Probably where a flake let go.
I hope and pray I never clean out my hopper in that way. Chris had it happen and there are still little dents on the hood and roof of the truck. He was burning pellets with nails in the wood. He showed pictures of the event.
Run the blower longer then you think you should is my rule. Thank God you did not get hurt JO.
Bob
Can you give me a description of what your piping looks like from the gasifier to the intake,
I am very surprised that you have no soot in the intake.
Wondering if there is something I can use, or if it is for the difference between our engines.
Jan, I’m am as surpriced as you are. I’m used to a lot more soot with my previous builds.
One big difference though, is I have a huge drop-box area on this gasifier. About 8" deep and 12×24" wide - oval chaped. No cyclone.
Another difference is the hayfilter. The hay is stuffed into a “pillow case” made of a woollen, very coarse see-through blanket.
Apart from that there’s pretty much no difference. Mostly ordinary 2" piping. Plastic downstream the cooler.
The cooler attracts some soot, but not as much as I’m used to. Pretty much nothing in the plastic piping downstream the filter. The front slingshot tennisball leaks a little condensation when I park, but it’s mostly clear.
Jan, this time I have some questions:
What does it look like when you drive with a heated system and park the vehicle, do you smoke around, how long are the gas leaks, do you close the air supply, do you close the valve at the gasifier outlet (if you have one), or do you have a relief hose straight up? … Carbon monoxide, methane, hydrogen released after shutdown, how do you handle it for safety? I’m glad you’re not damaged, I’m thinking of adding a relief pipe in which to burn gases after stopping, both from the filter and the gasifier.
Tone, I resently tightened the spring for the gasifier air inlet, because it started to leak hopper smoke via the the heat exchanger at shutdown. No smoke at all at the moment.
I use no woodgas valve at all at the moment. I just close the air-mixing valve up front at shutdown and keep it closed at lightup. It doesn’t seal 100% and any positive pressure at shutdown will vent as clean gas through the breather.
JO, lm guessing here but l think the reason you dont have as much soot is not because more gets filtred but rather you dont make as much. Why is that hapening is up to debate.
Or, your entire sistems runs above dew point. Soot realy only deposits after its moistened and then re-dryed out. I never saw soot in any warm or hot part of a gasifier.
Jo, the gasifier you made, obviously produces very high-calorific gas, do you also mention wood tar, does it form in the condensation zone or in the gas cooling zone? At my gasifier, it starts to separate when I connect the exhaust with the exhaust from the condensation zone and it flows into the condensate bucket. How long after stopping, is the gas still being extracted? Do you mention where the vent is installed?
Jo, I won’t give you any more peace, according to your posts, clogged pipe, tar formation, no soot, damp filter, … I assume you have no problems with high temperature, no problems with the grate, there is a lot of charcoal left in the gasifier, I’m just guessing, am I wrong?
