Overfeeding right before the intake manifold. This turbine can be moved electrically or with the engine exhaust gases.
B.R.
Eddy
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Hi, Steve!
7. of September 2016
Yes, incomplete, did not go into pyrolysing solids to long-chain and cracking to fundamentals, recombiningā¦ reducing.
The main aim was to explain the fundamental reason why a T-type mixer fails at load-off, and shed some light why a twin-throat is almost immune to air-exclusion.
I have to improve therminology. Thanks!
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I know a guy who tryed a turbocharhed Fiat 1.2 engine on woodgas. I dont know how it run but he was concerned that the pressurised air/gas mix wuld catch a spark in the intake manifold and burn stuff so he stoped the project. The machine was for procesing wood so you can think where the fear is based from. Never talked to him after that but my guess is woodgas and turbos dont go well together. Might be wrongā¦
Drove to work on wood for the first time today! I got rid of that trafic light stumbling. With cheating l am afraid 
l made the same gasoline control as on my Seat. I have two swichis. One is direct petrol on/off, other is connected to a resistor for about 1/4 gasoline. So before the trafic light l hit the 1/4 swich, the computer calculates good fuel ratio and l can idle forever. Thain l driveoff and after l get enough speed l go on 100% wood. Before l reved up to keep the charbed hot and that wasnt wery pleasant to do.
I mounted a non return valve today, smoke problem gone.
Learned the hard way how not to refuel. I opened the hopper lid while the gasifier was hot and held mi face a bit to close to blow the smoke away. Well lets just say my moustaches are a bit shorter now 
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What about the char this gasifier slips. Is the size useful for your Seat? I guess it would also like some exercise. Iām actually starting to worry about my old Volvo. Iāve driven it only once this summer. The battery was dead and I had to put the charger to it. Brakes are most likely getting stuck too.
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Ha! The char is of good quality but not of good quantity. There literaly isnt any char slipimg trugh. Perhaps a cup when l poke in at refills. I dont know if it is a good or a bad thing. I allso dont see any ash. But the charbed doesent feel constipated. Am l haveing ash free wood or something wieard is happening.
The litle Seat is siting still for more thain a month now. It hasnt got AC so l just drove the Lacetti on those hot days we had. But the sad truth is l have to give it away soon. The cost of a second car is to big here, so l will give it to my brother who just started to drive for a drivers licence. Who knows, perhaps he might light the char too sometimeā¦
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Hi Kristijan.
Thankās for your prompt respond. Glad you solved the idle issue.
I am new at all this. It took me five hours to go in detail thru all your great projectā¦first because regarding wood gasifiers experience I am less than a starter, and second because my english is less than barely enoughā¦
My concern is regarding the maximum speed woodgas vehicles can reach, for my understand is aprox between 80 Km/h (50 mph) and 95 Km/h (60 mph) relying only on the engine intake manifold vaccum.
If the woodgas-air mixture after the mixer and before the engine intake manifold can be pushed, (boosted) with some kind of turbocharger (overfeeding), common sense will say that the engine power might be increased, rising the maximum speed on woodgas vehiclesā¦
Does somebody knows if there are any experiences on turbocharging (overfeeding) woodgas-air mixture in woodgas vehicles in order to increase the maximum speed?
B.R.
Eddy
The speed is low not becouse of engine haveing too litle gas, but becouse the gas burns too slow. At (l think) about 3500 rpm the piston actualy moves faster thain the flame. So the objective is to find a engine with high drive ratios, driven at low rpm. I know Wayne drives one of those and he gets speeds far greater thain 60 mph.
The other thing is gasifier size. Every gasifier needs to be made to suit the gas demand. I drive at speeds of about 60-80kmh, so my gasifier is made rather small. This gives me great gas at low gas consumption, but lean on higher speeds. If one is to drive on the highways, a bigger gasifier is neaded. But thain it doesent work well on low speeds.
I am allso a beginer, perhaps others with more experiances culd help you more.
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Hi Kristijan:
Every word makes sense!!
Thanks a lot!!
Hi Kistijan:
I live in a developing country and will try to develop an easy to make and almost foolproof to handle charcoal gasifier for a motor vehicle. If I can make my experience, my intention is to post a free, online design for the people. No business involved as my contribution to a better world.
It seem to me that your charcoal gasifier (in the"Nozzles for charcoal gasifierās" section, post 21) is very simple to make and hopefully no tar involved.
So far what I got is that: the charcoal size you use is between 3-10mm; injecting 4l/100km you got a speed increased from 60 mph up to 70 mph at 2850rpm?; that your engine is Seat 1000 cc; the gasifier nozzle is special steel, interior diam seem to be between 32 - 50mm, ext diam seem to be between 44 - 62mm with four 10mm diam holes apart 100 mm between each holeā¦that is about all what I have from you charcoal gasifierā¦
When ever you may have a chance it will be greately appreciated if you can give more specifications/sketch on your charcoal gasifier, ash separator, cooling and wg-air mixer.
āYour contribution to a better world of clean fuelā will thank you!
B.R.
Eddy
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You got most right your self 
the idea behind this design is the nozzle has to have enough mass to draw the heat and it must face up. Thats about all there is to it. The rest is up to the imagination and resources. If you look in the nozzle category you will see much sucess has been made with a thiner ss pipe.
As for the filtration, l use a sack filter made out of a towel. This is allso a fruit of imagination and culd be made as the resorses allow.
A charcoal gasifier is a simplest thing on earth. Take a paintcan and pike a hole in and you have a gasifier. Some inprovenents and the engine is running.
Ask lf you have a specific question.
Ps l dont usualy use water injection. This was just a test. Althugh there are others on the forum that use it regulary.
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Hi Kirstijan:
Thankās for your prompt respond.
At the beginning I started thinking on woodgas gasifier, but now, after some research, it seem to me that charcoal gasifier will be much easyer to build for common people in a developing country. Here there is plenty of wood=charcoal, but expensive gasoline.
What is the inner size of the your āpaintcanā, it has an insulation arround? You drive 30 km each way every day, is your āpaintcanā sized to handle round trip or you have to refill each way?
How far from the bottom is your nozzle?
I got the towel filter idea, but what about the cooling system?
Any tar issues?
Thanks again.
B.R.
Eddy
Eddy
Welcome to the site. Just a couple of comments.
If you make your charcoal correctly there is no tar in it. Also check out Koenās work for more ideas. Look under the resources section for plans on Gary Gilmoreās simple fire
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The container is insulated with 3 cm rockwool.
l dont remember right now but l think it is 75 l. I fill the gasifier and this drives me to work and back, no refill. I use about 7kg/100km of charcoal. There is no cooler. A charcoal gasifier usualy doesent need one.
Never had tar.
Just one word of adviceā¦ a gasifier in the car isnt a good idea. The problem is althugh chargas isnt as hot as woodgas and the gasifier is insulated, it slowly heats up. I never drive it more thain 20km at once, if l wuld, the gasifier might get dangerously hot. It works well for me but it wuld be useless for other applications. Allso the gasifier emits lots of heat becouse of its large surface. Althugh it may be just 40c in the surface, in the heat of the summer the air in the car hets very hot. If you get the ability, put it outside.
But the bright side is in the winter l never scratched the icey windows. In a shifts time the gasifier emited heat slowly and heated the cabin
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A nother question for you guys. The sistem works well most of the time but l still get occasionsl bridgeing. When l notice a power reduction l have to look for a road bump. When the bump shakes the fuel down the power comes back. This is something l dont like to do very much becouse the motion puts unnesesery stress on the towbar and platform. Anyway, the question. Is it worthwile to put a electric shaker on the hopper? We have something similar on my workplace, a silo of titanium ore with a pneumatic hamer on it.
I was thinking more of a vibrator and just shake it occasionaly. Anny thods?
Hi Kristijan
9.9.2016
How about the 45* & 65* funnel?
I made it out of 3mm wires about 2cm apart to make a cone shape. The problem might be in the fuel shape. I use cube and triangular shaped fuel, perhaps cilindrical wuld work better?
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When having small dia firetubes like we do I think itās importatnt to try to avoid flat surfaces. I guess some cubes can be mixed in as long as most are round or odd chaped.
Even bone dry wood gets wet and sticky in there and as little contact area as possible helps.
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The ideas of using wire concerns me. Especially with square wood. The corners will stick into the holes in the wire. But to answer your question directly, a small vibrator can improve bridging. A small heater motor with a eccentric weight mounted to the drum will cause a vibration when run. Not for constant use. TomC
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JO and Tom, you both make sense. I will start makeing round wood. And if that doesent work, change the hopper cone.
But for now, keep your fingers crossed. Tomorow is D day. The first long drive, a weekend in my birthtown 140 km (90 miles) away. Two bags of (cube) wood prepared to be burnt.
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Hi Max
What do you mean. I do not understand?
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