Kristijan,
What Mike and Bob said - most likely frosty paper filter, making it run very rich. I always have a problem starting up on gasoline if I don’t blow the pipes clean with air by running gasoline before shutdown. Runs too rich from old gas.
About the idle I don’t know if you have bypass or a slightly open butterfly. If a bypass it could be some soot blocking it. More likely maybe even this has to do with the restrictive air filter since you have seen a slow deterioration over the last weeks.
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Hi guys. This probably will not correct your problem but it is where I always start out. As Kristijan just posted, he has been snooping around under the hood trying to learn what each component on the engine is designed to do. In doing so, he has taken things apart that probably were working alright but he wanted to observe. Now he has a problem. " Go back to the components you were studying" Very possible something didn’t go back together correctly. Kristijan you had the EGR valve open. I believe there is a heavily carbon covered gasket in there. In swinging the EGR valve around you could have scarred the gasket and when the engine is cold you get an air leak. Then you worked with a vacuum pull-off “thing”. Not sure what it is or was but I got the idea that you didn’t think it was working properly when you took it apart. Go back and check these things out. Some times we are our own worst enemy. TomC
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Regarding “Go back to the components you were studying”:
When at 3M, years ago, we once had a machine that failed too often. A new Quality Assurance Engineer was tasked to analyze it because of its poor reliability.
His conclusion:
“The machine can’t stand the stress of being serviced.”
He was absolutely correct.
I suppose that’s where the old saying “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” came from.
Pete Stanaitis
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Yes l agree whith you guys. Not the wizest thing to do takeing working things apart, but l guess thats part of the learning process.
Anyway… The problem finding award goes to JO. I took apart the throtle body today and it was full of soot. The gap in the throtle plate for idle was filled with soot. The problem that showed up is the hose sucking air from the oil compartment is positioned in a way oil droplets can bind with chardust and form a thick layr of greesy soot, plugging the throtleplate. This will have to be changed.
l cleaned it with gasoline and a toothbrush. It idles well again.
In the mean time l took measurments for the double flap throtle body. I see more and more it is a nesesity.
There is allso a problem l did not think about before. Since l use the hot filter, there is litle surface area after the cooler that wuld draw water out of the gas. This means the gas is moist when it comes in the intake manifold. l saw a litle pool in it when l dissasembled the throtlebody. Perhaps this is my starting problem? This allso has to be taken care of. I was thinking to make a small coalescer and a gas reheat.
And last, but not least, l tryed to pull the injector fuse out while high idleing on wood. Guess what? The rpm did fall considerably! So my fears were true! Ill put a swich to it
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Kristijan,
Wayne shows in a video how he puts a piece of cloth in his idle bypass not to plug it with soot. I’ll share the award with him 
How do you know there is oil in that soot? I’ve got “greesy” soot all the way from the hayfilter to the intake. I’m sure my idle bypass is filled with it (can’t get to it with cloth). I use a manual WK-string idle adjustment to the pedal. I need different settings anyway, woodgas/gasoline, tight/loose charbed.
I have a whole barrel of hay dripping wet and I still have water all the way up to the throttle. I think one thing is important though. Woodgas piping should climb up hill towards the throttle. Any water will flow back down after shutdown. Maybe your droplets went down the intake and froze after the engine cooled.
Reheating is good but doesn’t work on a cold parked car.
I’m glad you found out who stole your gasoline
Keep us updated!
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Jo,
Unforunaly l dont have a bypass. Just the throtle plate.
Hmm where does the greasyness come from then? I know it isnt tar. Its greasy just in the throtle body…
I didnt realise you have moist gas allso. Looks like plan b is in order thain, lll test it today and report.
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Hi, Kristijan!
8.10.2016
Install a Bowden cable (vernier cable) from the instrument panel to the throttle idle mechanism!
It’s called “handgas”. Works from Zero to whatever you choose!.
It is supporting a position, not forcing/locking.
For the crank chamber ventilation: Make a small centrifugal separator before you let the “gas” flow down into the throat!
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I guess if you let the soot dry you know if it’s oil or not. Mine is like fine cream paste that hardens if dried.
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I have a situation, that happened by accident but I think it has worked to my advantage. When plumbing the plastic pipe from the back of the truck to the front, when I got to the engine, there was just barely enough room to get the pipe between the exhaust manifold and the frame. I knew the exhaust would melt the plastic pipe, so I put a two foot section of metal tubing in that area. I have never checked how hot it gets going down the road, but I feel it is enough to give the woodgas enough temp to help eliminate the condensate a couple of feet further up the route at the TBI.TomC
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l made the double flap today by Maxs recomendations.
l think it will do the job but, of corse, there is a problem. Since l disconnected the throtle body the computer has no idea of throtle position. No matter how far l open the new twinflap, the rpm doesent rise unless l allso move the original flap. Untill the lambda warms up and override throtle position sensor.
Anyway, l did it again. Opened a working element. Guilty as charged.
There is a idle servo (non working! it just buzzes) and the throtle position sensor, the black thing slideing on the black plate. My question is how culd one override or symulate this? Is this a reostat?
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Ha, this is getting over my head
Kristijan, I’m curious, if I remember right you’re also in an annual inpection area. What are your plans for inspection? Are the changes you make easily reversable? They do look under the hood, don’t they? (And plug in for codes)
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Unfortunaly yes. I hope the new throtle body to blend with the rest of the engineparts, it allso isnt hard to change it with the original. Plus it hides a bit with plastic engine cover. l am a bit conserned about the emisions thugh, hope all the experimenting wount hurt the catalisator. This gets printed dyrectly on the licence paper on the inspection, for other things you can sometimes get away with a few € “forgotten” in the inspection papers.
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Kristijan,
Well, here I go again talking about things I don’t know enough about…
Yes, the black part looks like a variable resistor, and it is a high-quality one. You could simulate that, but there is more going on with this part. It is a servo, like you said. The buzzing could be just normal hunting around the set position. Could it also be part of your cruise control? also, is that maybe a sensor at the full-throttle position? You don’t want to render your car difficult or unsafe to drive!
Nice job on the twin-flap throttle!
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Well there is a variable resistor for throtlle position and one for idle position. There is allso a full closed sensor, there apears not to be a WOT sensor.The servo can only move the throtleplate a litle bit so looks like just for idle. I assumed it wasnt working becouse it lacs power to move the throtle plate at all, just buzzing when it shuld start opening the throtle plate. I have been suspicious about it for quite some time now…
Thanks Mike, hope it will sllso work. I have no dubt about woodgas, gasoline is a concern…
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Hi, Kristijan!
9.10.2016
O,O,O !!!
When suggesting to insert the woodgas mix through the left end of the intake manifold, I had no idea of the mechanism regulating the length of the individual intake channels for the cylinders!
Now, this rotating slide mechanism has its manouvering and reading (feedback position reading) all in the gable-plate!
You can by no means remove it, if you are to pass an inspection for regulated lawful fuels = gasoline!
…
A new way of entering the woodgas mix has to be intoduced!
If not a “third way” can be found on the intake manifold, the right-hand end of the manifold has to be investigated thoroughly, this time based on facts and good photos!
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So you are saying that money talks, over there in your country too. We call it lobbying in our government, but I just like to call it what it is. Good old bribery. Lol
Bob
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Hi, Bob!
9. of October 2016
In this case, it was not only defaulting the inspection of exhaust norms, it was also deteriorating the normal power performace on gasoline!
The introduction of woodgas is not intended to deteriorate performance on other fuels!
The woodgas use has to be applied independent of other fuels, that’s the aim.
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Max, correct absorvation! This is why l removed the original throtle body. No worys on the space, there is plenty of kt if l remove the air filter box!
I culdnt sleep tonught thinking of what to do, thain it crossed my mind, if everything fails, l culd put the new twin throat before the original, conecting it on the same throtle cable. But first, some tests!
Bob, it has many names, corruption wuld be most educated, we like to call it “lubrication”.
Unfortunaly the inspectirs are in fear last year, the goverment stept on their toes puting one on the cort for takeing 200€ “forgotten” money and he got three years behing bars.
Ps Max, what reheat space do you suggest? I plan to put the heat exchanger on the ecgaust pype.
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Ha, that’s funny.
There are no lubrication used here. Very few people think for themselves. Rules and regulations are looked upon as laws of physics. People (and politicians) are tricked big time by the really “luby” big business guys.
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Hi, Kristijan!
9.10.2016
None, before seeing!