You need to go somewhere and use a really good welder Cody. One thing I’m a fan of electronically is pulse start and arc stabilization. High end welder makes a chump great and low end welder makes a master a chump. After that you won’t feel bad about your ability. Just your equipment.
I need to repair dad’s old tombstone welder he gave me. I keep forgetting the name but I know it’s not a common name, you set the amps by putting the lead in a new spot. Doubles as a 12v battery charger as well. Not sure if the welding side is a buzzbox AC or if it’s DC. Need to drag it out of the depths of my shop, open it up to evict any dust bunnies living in the case. Also re insulate the leads and undo his decades of electrical tape wrapping. 240v Only.
Might be a Marquette. He said all he ever needed was that welder, his spool gun, and his oxy acetylene.
Hi Tom. For hanging guitars and other string instruments.
Bob
Yes Mr. Tom . I think to get the chairs out of the way and what Bob said .
IS upgrade the same as premium member/ or how much is premium member if old member time ran out.
Hello Kevin.
This is how Chris has set up the premium.
Description
Extend your membership at Drive On Wood!
The most popular option is to upgrade from 6 months to Lifetime, for just the difference in price, $150. 1 Year members can upgrade to Lifetime for $100.
Alternatively, you can add 6 months for $50 or a full year for $100. (Buying another book won’t extend your membership.)
If you decide to let your membership lapse, then no action is required. You will be able to access the Premium area until it expires on the date above. After that your account will revert to regular status, and you will lose access to the Premium section and all the videos, articles, and discussion forums. Don’t let that happen! We value every member of the community, and we would hate to see you go.
Drive On Wood
I need to spend one of my fat weeks on lifetime so I won’t have to worry about it again. Since I post on here so often I feel morally obligated to help pay for server fees!
OK thanks WAYNE-K so my original book perchase premium ran out, and i am still unclear if i would need too pay 150.00 $ or 200 for life time membership.Because when at store it says 6 month too lifetme, and i dont know if my old book perchase counts as the 6 month part.??THANKS
Hello Kevin .
As I understand it $150 would be a life time membership for you because you have bought the book ( $50 )
Thanks
Wayne
I will try and shoot that membership money your way before argos indiana or a little sooner ,Thanks for clearing that up for me.
Wasn’t sure where to post this question. Has any one bent hoops for a greenhouse? I need to know what radius bending jig to use for a 10 ft radius hoop. I am using (3) 10’ chain link fence top rails to make each hoop. If I did the math correctly, I got 5.5’ or 6’ radius bending jig. Any math whiz out there?
So that’s a 30 foot half circumference? Or 10 feet for each rib of the roof?
With 5.5 radius I think you’d want 34~35 feet.
He wants 3 connected for each hoop, which gives him in a perfect half circle world it is a 9.55’ roof which is also the radius. I have no idea how you calculate the bending jig. nor whether a greenhouse should be a perfect half circle.
I’m not sure if this will help you Al. If all else fails I would get three pieces of half inch pvc and bend the radius and take measurements from there.
https://metalgeek.com/archives/2005/05/01/000047.php
A lot of blabber about it here.
https://permies.com/t/77366/build-hoop-bender-find-correct
after reading some of what Tom posted, you might be better served not doing a full half circle go straight for like 5ft then curve the top, but you can’t figure out that radius until you know how tall (which I believe is 10ft) and how far the posts are. You may also just consider making it square with an angled roof. Part of the issue is if you do a full half circle, the ‘roof’ is going to be like 2ft high for about 3ft and it really isn’t that usable. You could =also= use the posts vertically, then drill an angled hole in them for bendable pvc to slide through for the roof. It in part depends on how or if you are going to attach it to the ground.
When you make your bends you will find that the tubing will have a certain amount of spring back. If you bend a piece of steel it’s natural tendency is to do that and if you heat the steel it will release the tension generated by the compression of the molecules in the steel. The spring is taken out but some strength is lost. You can use that tension to your advantage. When you pull the ends of the tubing toward each other that tension tends, to equalize through the whole arc until it reaches maximum tension and the weakest point fails. I think you are better served having you end points tension ed so that the lower sections of the pipes are perpendicular to the base. I know there are engineering terms for this. You main enemy will be snow load. You want to avold having that load try and push out against your anchor points.
Winds loading too.
Snow loads are much more predictable more or less straight down.
Winds loading are much more a sideways thrusting loading. And can have almost as much on the the downwind side a lifting component.
Building a light weight structure, unlike a glass glazed, framed green house you make no friends with gravity to help you out.
S.U.