Nice graphic. Not having a wealth of gasifier knowledge it seems to me that the I.D. of the red pipe and then the even smaller pipe from the cyclone to the filter makes the size of the piping and valve out of the filter an unnecessary expense. Someone correct me if I’m wrong.
I made a cyclone by bending a piece of 26 gauge aluminum into a cone and sliding it into a six inch Dia tube. I don’t know the metric conversion. Anyway you form the cone and tape it to maintain the shape and just slide it in place in the section below the T. I copied the way Gary Gilmore did one. You could look that up.
Regarding the red pipe you are right, it’s 2 inches but I am planning to reduce it 1 inch.Same like the grey pipe exiting the cyclone and going to the cooler.
Andreas,
I think Bruce Southerland made a no-weld cyclone for his Charcoal MGB Project. Look it up on the forum. That might give you some ideas. As far as the cone is concerned, like Tom and Gary, I also made a cone out of thin sheet metal and inserted it into a thicker piece of pipe for the Corolla cyclone.
Cyclones do not need to be cone shaped. The spiraling air will be cone-shaped inside of a straight cylinder. Also, the inlet does not need to be a tangential pipe. The trick is to install an air ramp at the inlet. For more info on my cyclones just put the words air ramp in the search window at the top of the page.
I have that same vacuum. It pulls really hard for a small machine. Pretty impressive results.
Next time I build a cyclone I won’t bother with the cone either Bruce. I even wonder about the filters. The larger charcoal unit I built has only ever had condensate in the collection jar for the cyclone. No dust in the water. It is a big hopper though so a lot of char between the reactor and the outlet. I certainly didn’t need to use a 32 gallon trash can for a filter container. I will be reworking that.
This is what I did. I took an old aluminum pressure cooker, drilled a hole big enough for a one inch pipe to thread through the side near the top. With the pipe thread showing on the inside, I then screwed on a 90 degree elbow. I drilled a hole for a one inch pipe to screw into the cover of the cooker, again the threads show inside the cover.
Attach a female union and a threaded one inch close. Cut the close to length about a quarter inch from the bottom. It seemed to work ok. Everytime I opened it there would be some char residue and condensation in the bottom.
This was a 4 gallon pressure cooker.
You could do the same with a smaller container and some floor flanges, and pipe fittings.
No welding.
If you are still getting some particulate coming through, then take a can small enough to allow the gas to circulate inside the proposed cyclone. fasten the smaller can to the pipe with a floor flange inside the cyclone. punch some holes in the smaller can and wrap it in a wool sock. In the 4 gal. Cooker I used a number 10 veggie can. Yes it was open on one end. I adjusted my inside pipe and mounted the can with a one inch floor flange so that the can sat on the bottom surface inside the cooker. wrapped it in an old wool sweater that I picked out of somebody’s garbage.
This was a very good cyclone filter for my char gasser. I got lovely blue flames. All together, I had about 25 dollars invested. The cooker, num. 10 can, and sweater were all picked out of the garbage. Only the pipe fittings, and floor flanges were bought new. Adjust your pipe size to the amount of gas that the engine needs. I wanted to power 3.5 - 10 horse ICE. With char gas
So one inch pipe was good for me
Hope this helps. sorry I don’t have any pictures, or drawings.