[Discussion about running LS engines on woodgas. Matt Ryder has experience gasifying them commercially.]
So you’re against just LS or all interference engines? Most engines now (including the 318 Dodge) are interference…
I wouldn’t say against just not going recommend it at least to a beginners. Unless you have experience with your machine and 100% you will always make dry clean fuel. It only takes one mistake to make some tar to make a real mess of one of these engines. You dont necessarily have to stick a valve, but just slowing it down is enough to create some real problems. If you foul a plug with wet gas this may not be full of tar but this cylinder over time miss firing can get sticky.For me as a manufacturer I have to make it bullet proof; if it can happen it will.
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OK with me… Just pointing out, we’ve never had a tarred-and-bent valve among the collective million or so miles driven here. I intend to run an LS powered Dakota the first chance I get.
I know vehicles are different than stationary, because the operator is constantly “feeling” the machine out. A sticky throttle is a warning sign, along with the way the engine was last running on shutdown. It’s definitely not “idiot-proof”. Few things truly are.
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If you need any help with your LS let me know. I strongly recommend scrapping the EFI and going carbureted.
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I intend to… With the woodgas/air coming in on one side, and a carb on the other, then all I need to figure out is the ignition setup.
Moving this to a new thread, don’t want to hijack your project.
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You will be fine with the MSD kit for the LS. All you have to do is plug it in basically, it comes with a full wiring harness and plugs directly into the GM sensors. I think all we needed to use was the crank sensor and you have the option to use a map sensor for better timing. Other than that put power to it and choose what timing curve you want or program it yourself. It comes with an output wire for a tach as well. There are tons of manifolds for em too. You can get manifolds for dual and triple carb set ups. It would be interesting to see one with a gas carb on one end and a woodgas set up on the other. Ive always wondered if this would work our not. What do you think I might try it as well on my machine. 
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The LS machine we built in Italy was ran with out the cooler turned on. So what ended up happening is the gas was condensing later and getting to the engine. The vicious cycle now begins, fouled two plugs and ran for 4 hours. We shut down to connect the generator head and restarted, then that awful sound of metal smashing against itself started. This may have been the couple spitting out the spider couple we repaired this but in this process the engine had time to cool. We hit the starter and that was all it took. Off with the heads and new valves back in. Its been back up and running and I have finally got input back on it. It is pulling the 25 kW continouse at 1500 rpms as planned so that was good news to hear. Its been at a few shows over there as well.
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Ouch… not fun!!
The MSD kit sounds like a good option, thanks for the info. I assume it has plenty of headroom for woodgas timing advance?
I wonder how well a carburetor will run through an EFI style manifold. Probably good enough for our purposes.
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You may want to get the after market manifolds. They are reasonable these days and you might find one used on ebay. For your carb, you can try and find one in the local yards but last time I tried to find one at my local yard they laughed at me. lol. They are getting more and more rare.
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Here is everything you need minus the carb and engine The intake ports on the LS engine are massive too!! this is one place this engine really shines for woodgasing, this engine is built to breath in the goods
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For timing you can play with different MAP sensors to get you where you want to be. The MSD box also some tuning plugs you plug into it. I cant remember what they are actually called. but you get an array of them and can plug different ones in to get different timing curves. So you have lots of adjustment and have the ability to log your data via laptop. I didnt try this and am not sure if you can get live data. But if I remember correctly you can tweak timing further via programing with your lap top, it should come with the software too.
Here some data from an ebay listiing
The 6LS and 6LS-2 Ignition Controllers can now be installed on EFI or carburetor equipped engines. While it may seem blasphemous to some, putting a carburetor on a GM Gen-III V-8 is a great option for those wanting the advantages of the aluminum small block without the headaches of wiring a modern EFI system. The controllers allow you to map a timing advance curve with MSD’s easy-to-use Pro-Data+ software. Other programmable features include a two-step rev limiter, a vacuum advance curve for cruising economy and even a step retard in case you want to add a little nitrous to the mix. The 6LS is designed for LS1/LS6 type engines with a 24-tooth wheel, which can be identified by its black crank sensor connector. The 6LS-2 is designed specifically for the LS2/LS7 and its 58-tooth wheel, which can be easily recognized by its gray crank sensor connector. Both of these compact ignition controllers fit with matching factory connectors for a direct installation. Only a handful of connections are required; the coils, crank sensor, MAP sensor and the cam sensor. You’ll have your carb’ed LSX running in no time!
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Good article on EFI vs carb manifolds etc (for my reference, mostly)
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Good for you Matt Ryder.
Too often other have only been willing to share out the good results sprinkled into the mounds of hopeless optimism.
I’m thinking specifically on all of the still hyped-up, made in India, Listroid CS engines “as the perfect for woodgassing” still up; never been retracted, cockroach living on the Net.
I STILL get contacts/calls asking me why I sold out of mine!!
Ah . . . 950 pounds for something that hops up and down; has two big grabbing external flywheels, gives flickering prone AC drive; doen’t come with an electric staring system at all; and is now declared Fed’s illegal to import into the US/Canada.
I was so-o-o cool-aide bought-in stupid.
No reason for others to fall into avoidable holes.
Go dig your own new ones.
Best Regards
Washington State Steve Unruh
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I wanted to bump this up. There was some discussion of the LS engine platform at Whitley City this year. I know there has been several folks discussing using newer vehicles, and this is a strong candidate. They are cheap, readily available, easy to modify, and the path is well-trodden by hot-rodders. Off the shelf tuning kits etc. The junkyards are full of GMT-800 vehicles to rob parts from.
@Matt I know it’s been years back, but can you give us your thoughts on the LS engines from your current perspective? You’re the only one I’ve seen who used it much. What was the good and bad, and would you consider one today, especially for a vehicle?
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The 5.3 is bullet proof and well proven along with a TON of options. You can carburete this engine and do away with the controls other than an ignition control management unit for the coil packs. But this is nothing like an ECM controller. The one I used was from MSD.
The only issue is this engine does not free wheel if there is a valve open. So if you tar up the valve train be carefull not to smash the valves with the pistions. lol But other than that the 5.3 is my choice for anything GM.
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I think @luke1968c10 has a 5.3 in his truck. He has a Cateye Silverado so it’s in the early 00s generation. He has to hybrid a lot since he’s still using the regular computer and injection system but his liquid fuel economy is about 65mpg dual fueling.
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LS type (“Generation III & IV”) engines without the AFM cylinder deactivation system have been used quite late IF you go up in chassis weight ratings.
My 2017 3500 series GMC Box/Cutaway truck with 12,300 pounds GVW:
A 6.0L (364 CID) V-8. Used I believe as late as 2020.
I am not so sure the GMC/Chevrolets engine in the 11 foot box vans with single rear wheels were non-AFM types. ???
Both use an electronic shifted 6 speed Robinoux automatic transmission: 6L80’s - 85’s and 90’s. It has its own internal electronic controller. Looking up I’ve found aftermarket piggy-back transmission controllers offered.
The top two speeds are overdrives dropping the 70 MPH highways RPM way down. Mine is 2000-2100 RPM.
What woodgas wants.
Steve Unruh
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There’s also ways around the Active Fuel Management, some solutions as easy as plugging into the OBD2 port. My friend with his 2016 Dodge Challenger RT and his 5.7L Hemi replaced all the lifters and his cam with Hellcat spec parts. He actually found with all 8 cylinders all the time he got better fuel economy, but he didn’t like how Sport Mode disabled his traction control so he did the lifter change.
AFM I think would be a big issue buying a used engine with up to 60,000 miles. It does a lot of damage to the cam lobes. I think that was half the repairs I noticed when I worked at the Chevy dealership.
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Here’s the thing about LS and all the other high tech 21st century engines. All the electrical components are made in China. OEM Gm coil packs, sensors. Even quality aftermarket sensors like Japanese owned Denso are made in China. MSD parts are made in China. All your work arounds to get a LS to run without computer controlled EFI are dependent on keeping a supply chain open from China. Now pay attention to what’s going on in the world. The US just lost the petro-dollar and the Brics nations, including China are about to shut the door on the federal reserve note we call the dollar. Exactly why we are pushing so hard for global WW3. If you think this is just more SHTF delusion you need to quit looking at the surfaces and get into the guts of the world. If you want to convert LS or other similar engines you better get those required parts on your shelve soon.
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This is a very valid concern, but are the older trucks any different? Water pumps and windshield wiper motors certainly do not have the complexity of these electronics, but crafting one out of scrap is certainly well beyond my abilities.
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