In a way l had this kind of a sistem in my Seat. A wet filter out of a whole thick cotton towel. Worked great and l am actualy thinking to go back to it. A lot less complicated thain a hot paperfilter.
Kevin, as Max sayd, open cell foam isnt realy no1 choice for a wery wet sistem (at least thats my experiances). Black sooty water will soon protrude trugh the foam. Such a sistem l had on my moped. But it works well to a point.
l got it from a hardwere store. In bales of about 20m2
Take a breath! What we are talking about in wet filtering is: 2 sheets of matress,
each 3-4" thick laying on each other, length 1/2 of an adault person’s length; that means a full matress cut in two equal pieces. Has to be open-cell foam, medium heavy.
That will do for a 4-5 liter motor.
For a car with ~2 liter motor a ski-box gives very good room. As the gas goes up and down from behind, relatively cool, the flex-tubes can be camouflaged by “fancy fins”.
Then generally, the gas has to pass from below up on the upper side, to avoid ripping water in drop-form.
Kristijan, you cannot compare two quite different situations with vastly deviant passage areas for any filtertype!
I think i might try 4 shoe box size filter and see what it collects besides my large water heater media mass.If it plugs up before 150 miles i will make bigger or abondon and just use the standard dakota media filter. Any change
i can add will slow down my intake cleaning intervals.Thanks Max.
By making “baby” filters we have 2 negative properties against us!
A too small passage area concentrates and collects the “larger” soot particles
= clogging.
…
BUG BUG BUG changes numbers and rows!
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2. Sooty water sinks downward through the filter medium, and the cleaned gas flows from below upward. This functions, if one is not overriding the measuring principals...
Is the bad bug still playing with our writing efforts?
If not, THANKS to Chris!
First row
Second row
Third row
As said, baby build — baby performance!
The flow velocity through a wet horizontal matress of open-cell is from below to the top-side!
Slow flow does not blow fine dust through a 6 – 8" thick layer of open-cell wet matress.
After reheating, the cylindrical paper filter stays resonably clean for 4000 Miles and more!
“Needless to say” that the matress sheets need to be rised up from the bottom by 1 – 1,5" to guarantee free flow of gas and condens water. The condense is preferably flowing down through the gasline back to the common condense tank shared with the cooler.
Stainless net with a mesh size of 1" is very suitable, both below and above the the matresses. Eaven collection above the matresses needs a controlled space; this way the sides of the matresses do not bend and leak (pass-by).
Thanks Max that was a very good english explaination of the matriss wet cell filter, How or ware would one mount a half of a mattess for wet filter, half of my mattess is 3 foot by3 foot.
If the “dropbox” takes the form of a manteled cyclone, relieving the cooler from a good portion of the flying char and soot, you can guess what happens to the hay-barrel next!?
In the left corner…
There is room, if fixing the length X breadth proportions…?
“Hiding” the condense tank under it, on the loading plane… Warm in the winter.
Reheating on part of the cyclone as a separate vertically sharing part of the hot surface, with the primary-air-heating outer mantel…
I have the idea on the wet filter and the reheat. For paper filter, wont have time too tri the extra filtering for a while though i wanted too get a proper perspective of how too try when time available.Thanks for your explaintion so i can try those variables too make the paper filter work.Thanks Max gas man
Hi, Kristijan!
30.5.2017
The heat-flow from the hearth up into the silo alone, is in most cases inadequate to fulfill the pyrolysing before the gasification proper starts.
The pyrolysing will not start before the nearby wood has been dried enough.
Insulation of the silo will help on “full silo” trips, but not much on short trips.
An Imbert (whole) heating mantel will provide much more heating energy, but the benefit will appear most clear during the second half of a silo-content. The last part (in the funnel) of the silo fuel may become so heavily pyrolysed that one can clearly observe the lack of hydrogen. The motor power starts to fade away to a lower level.
The best silo solution seems to be internal heating (with a plank) and condensation at the cool pheriphery. With or without outer cooling tubes.
That gives the best timing throughout a silo for the involved processes.
How does this sistem perform at a sudden stop? Lets say you have a full hopper of 20% moisture wood, thats heated by the outside mantel. At operation, the steam passes the heart giveing good gas, but at a sudden idle this steam and pirolisis gases have to go somewhere?
I ask this becouse l used to have a hot hopper and problems did occur in this situation, makeing first too rich gas, then lean.
Shame to say, but the height of the silo gives so much heat dissipation, that the internal steam production does not “overflow” the air intake and ruin the gas quality.
One contributing factor may also be, that the side opposite to the gas out-take side in the mantel may have a “too thick” soot layer, which in turn can dilute the heat transfere into the silo!
This in turn gives a new HEURECA! realization:
Both with a plank, and with an Imbert heated silo, one needs to do the heating adjustable!
To be able to shift from cold to hot hopper? Or in between? Then, two gas outlet shuld be used, one to bypass the hopper. Doable. So, heat the wood, dry it, then bypass to avoid strong pirolisis. Something in this direction?
I gave some thod to your idea, and it seems wery doable and not at all too complicated.
All we need is a hot hopper, a bypass, a thermostate and a flap to control the temperature. Thermo sensor in the hopper.
Pirolisis starts at about 250c, so at startup all the gas passes the hopper. Then, as temp reaches 250, the gas diverts to a bypass.
Steam is vented out in wk style cooling tubes.
