I need to buy another length of conduit to make my gas cooler as well as some heavy duty wood screws so I can anchor my tubing bender into my new stump. Plan to do a series of 180 degree bends to make a serpentine radiator.
Got the gas exit welded in. Now I just need to build the cooler.
I think to make my life easier I’m going to look for 1" or 3/4" sized screen to pre sort my charcoal. That way I’m not pulverizing char that is already a good size.
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Looking really nice there Cody.
You should to be able to go a few miles on that barrel of charcoal.
Bob
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That whole barrel is a cooler as long as you don’t let the fuel drop too low. I think all you need is some kind of drop box at your gas exit with a catch jar at the bottom for condensate and then a filter and you are good to go. A thermocouple about half way down the barrel would be good to let you know when your fuel hits that level.
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I might use one of my smaller fire extinguishers as a drop box, so welding in the pipe square instead of on a tangent. At least then I can attach a drain valve and jar.
If you go updraft there realy isnt much of a point in complicating things much if you ask me. The charcoal is also a filter and dropbox, as others hinted. A sack filter after the gasifier and you are good to go.
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Top, thanks. Any suggestions for temp switch if it gets to warm?
How safe is it to leave an updraft’s intake open when shut down? Will the air allow the hopper to burn up or will it be fine? I’ll see if I can find something to make caps out of, but I don’t want an accident if I test drive without a way to cap it off. Aluminum foil doesn’t work very well for the tubes.
It will cuntinue to burn for around 8 hours, but l will guess since you have the gasifier on tge open and wind can get to it you can expect it to burn a lot longer…
Why not add a valve to it?
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I don’t have any good valves to weld onto it at the moment. As soon as I find some 2" valves I’ll weld on some pipe to give it threads.
Worst case scenario I’ll find some 2" caps and use that.
I was thinking of mounting the reactor at the tail end of the bed and run the piping up to the filter behind the cab. That will let me access both of the ends of the flute.
I Cody, use a rag rolled up and rap aluminium tape around it to plug up the intake hole works great. I used this method at Argos three years ago when I melted my flapper valve and pusher blowers.
Bob
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Also in other news I found my tank for the liquid drip, I forgot I squirreled away some 5 gallon tanks that used to hold tire shine as well as a threaded barb adapter so I can attach a petcock to a line via that. Figure I’ll run rubber hose from the petcock up and copper line after that.
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A needle valve and sight glass are good for adjustment and observation.
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Think i may have mentioned this before but Ali cooking foil , squashed up into a carrot shape pushed 2/3rds inside of your flute will work very well the tighter the fit the quicker it will extinguish its self , or even a bolt a tiny bit smaller with some Teflon tape wrapped around it and pushed inside the flute both work both are cheap and quick to make .
Dave
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I didn’t realize that the nozzle was fed from both ends.
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I forgot my tubing bender doesnt go up to 2", I’m throwing a real Hail Mary and got a 6 foot length of flexible exhaust. I’m hoping the hose itself won’t leak and I’ll use the silicone on the mating surfaces and clamp it down.
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Cody,
I use a 6-8 foot length of 2 inch diameter flex exhaust between my cyclone and filter and never had any problem with it.
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Good to know. I’ve heard horror stories from my dad just from using it as intended.
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Found exactly one 2" pipe cap, so I’ll go ahead and weld on some 2" pipe to allow threads, and keep hunting for another cap.
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