I had a feeling that would be the case. I’m just not sure how I could get this throttle lever to be able to throw the full arch. I tried using a choke cable and it didn’t have enough leverage to move it, which was disappointing because the choke cable had enough throw to it.
The truck has no AC so I leave it on fresh air, and windows are usually cracked open at the very least.
I could always just leave my controls in the hard headed way and pull over when I need to switch over.
Here’s how the hoops are placed. Pretty sturdy and it’ll work even better when I get some turnbuckles and cable.
Also I managed to snag an old hot water heater from the side of the road. Guy made me take an old air conditioner with me as well since I was picking up garbage he couldn’t haul.
Okay so with the 3/4" reduced fresh air, the engine wants to stall on gasoline when I apply throttle and don’t blip it down to idle. If I just let off the throttle she dies.
Edit: it was the hose extension I tried out. Just made it work too hard. It would stumble and I guess run out of air.
Yes what Wayne sayd. What l had was only a test settup to determine what size of valve l need etc. For a test its good but its anoying and possibly dangerous.
I had a rod trugh a firewall on my chevy other thain that l like to use 1.2mm SS welding wire for cables. Sturdy and smooth. For the cable housing l use this
Kritijan’s Method works even if you are worried about CO in the cab. All you have to do is put the valve in the cab the air inlet can be run outside again.
I wish it worked for my truck but I think it suffocates it too much.
I have a 30mm slide carburetor as my air control right now, only issue is the return spring is just a little too strong and wants to close while running.
I think I’m going to re attach the ball valve, add a return spring to closed position and use a vernier cable so I can lock it into position but still tug it open when i need to switch over to gasoline.
Something about how long the hose is was suffocating the engine. Wasn’t getting full rpm range in gasoline and when I let off of the throttle it would die if I didn’t ease it back down.
I tested with just my 3/4" pipe and valve by itself and it was fine, but with the hose extension added it was giving me issues. It didn’t look like the hose was collapsing either so I don’t think it was that.
Tried a few different cables to control the valves. Nothing seems to be satisfactory for me. I’m just going to leave it all unhooked for now. Best result was a stop cable with a return spring but since it doesn’t lock, it would slowly close the valve. Throttle lever cables don’t have enough travel or they would be perfect.
It seems to work fine once set into a good idle so I’ll just keep the valves without remote controlling.
I’m having a hard time picturing exactly how to make one. My premium hasn’t activated yet from buying HWWT so I can’t access Wayne’s videos yet. I know everybody says it’s just a washer welded to a spindle but I’m not sure how to actually go about making it.
Cables can be made with high tensile fence wire, through tubing like brake line or copper or plastic air line. grease it, slide it through put the end, and handles with set screws.
I think the main issue was that my ball valve has too much drag for the cables to push them back closed. I saw that Steve Abadessa loosens them up by unscrewing just a hair so I might try that for now while I’m making a butterfly.