Cooling rails already Bruce , great now get on with the rest of the build , nice to hear from you again i hope all is well with you and your family .
I got fed up waiting for my Hexoloy nozzle to burn out and so i finally did get round to using the nozzles you sent me on some downdraft builds i did for friends and so far they seem to be working out ok , how did you get on with yours ?
Dave
Dave you need to start documenting your builds! See how you put em together.
A year ago tomorrow this truck was ruined. I’m trying to get her rolling on tarmac again ASAP.
Edit: They never found the perpetrator but they did find the stolen minivan. Nobody is being held responsible. I never got paid by State Farm, technically didn’t get totalled again.
and thank god you and your friend walked away. 
Before I do anything else my Dad and I need to make sure the windshield will line up correctly to the frame. The roof support this roll cage kit came with won’t reach my A Pillars, so I will probably make my own frame for the roof. Either that or make my own A Pillar branches to reach the included roof portion.
The main hoop is solid, welded in 4 places. Once I have the roof portion and A Pillar branches in that’ll be another 2 anchor points.
Thats a cool looking bumper, a person could put his cooling racks behind and in front of the the real axel; If wanting too not use up the space on the truck bedd with cooling rails, Just leave room too get too the drive shaft if needed.
Once I get the windshield in, I’m going to order new seatbelts. Putting 3 point belts on the roll bar probably isn’t the smartest idea. I’ll probably go with Lap Belts.
Since my B Pillars are gone, I can legally replace my 3 point belts with all Lap Belts. If I get in another accident I guess I’ll be signing myself up for the Dale Earnhardt Dental Plan.
Only other option would be to replace the bench seat, and I hate bucket seats in a pickup. Also hate 5 point harnesses.
Your seatbelt post reminded me of the Car Talk radio show a while back when seatbelt laws first started being enforced. They said that in Italy they sold shirts with diagonal dark stripes that mimicked what seatbelts looked like so they would not get stopped whether they wore the seatbelts or not. 
They’ll be sore they bothered pulling me over when they see me wearing my lap belt. Might find some High Vis colored ones.
Removed the whole rear bumper. I’ll figure out what to do with it later.
I’ve been thinking of relocating my gasoline tank further back, or eliminating the original tank and putting in a pony tank. Would give me more ideal room for the gasifier, putting it on the Port side. I could build a cradle to set it lower if I did that, too.
What do you guys think? The fuel tank doesn’t have a pump inside, just a sending unit. It’s about 16 or 17 gallons apparently. I think a 10 gallon tank would be fine for this little truck. If I relocate the tank I’ll probably use my electric Edelbrock pump to boost the mechanical pump, wired to shut off when I cut off the fuel solenoid.
Me too.
NOO!!! you are supposed to become the iconic woodgas racer! They won’t even let you drive on the oval without one!!
Got my tail lamps from Speedway! Wow, real glass, I’m loving it!
Also stainless steel body. Speedway sells replacement lens, I might change them out for the classic Model A STOP lens later on.
It’s a two wire light, body of the lamp is the ground.
Gonna go to Lowe’s tomorrow and buy some square tube, I’m going to build a frame for the wood to attach to, and also integrate the cradle for holding up the gasifier.
If I build the cradle with the top of my muffler as a rule of thumb I’ll have about 4 feet to work with before it reaches the top of the roll cage. I might as well build the gasifier inside the truck frame to prevent dingdongs from touching it.
Little bit more done, fitted the jacket for the Mazda gasifier. Bit of a Tank in a Tank in a Tank Gasifier.
The 10" air compressor tank is about 1/8" thick wall, with protruding nozzles I won’t have much to worry about.
Sounds familiar 
I had thought of using a 55 gallon drum for this build, but it’s just too close to the gasoline tank for my comfort. Even if I moved the tank it would take up a lot of space.
I’m debating if I should show my nozzle design or post that on my Sensitive Details thread, the nozzle layout is like the MEN’s idea. I want to say they’ve shown images of it on their website for free, and the purchased plans show how it actually works.
Edit: I found a public article showing the nozzle design, I just wanted to make sure it was public available knowledge.
My nozzles won’t have the same air routing obviously, I’m just considering the theory used in the nozzle layout of the MEN 2.0 aka the one you get in their plans.
Okay, so here’s the plan.
I bought
Five 3/8" Couplers
Five 3/8" Street Elbows
Ten 3/8" Plugs
Going to split the couplers in half.
Ten nozzle holes.
If I don’t like the upwards MEN V2 style jetting, I will just have 10 regular nozzles. No harm, no foul.
With the plugs I will drill out 1/4" holes in each one. I figure with 10 jets that’s plenty big.
If I don’t like that, I’ll buy some 3/8" nipples and just screw them in.
These all share the same air jacket, no point in splitting that up.
I am not sure if I want to go with Ben P hearth nozzle to restriction distances, or have a longer distance.
If I go Ben P style then with the fire tube I will have a nice intermediate distance where the fuel gets really cooked above the nozzles.
If I put the nozzles at the top of the jacket like a Joni or WK, then the heat will focus more into the hopper area and I will have to hope that it’s all char below.
If I go Imbert side of things then I will add a self insulating Reduction.
If I go with higher up nozzles I won’t bother with a Reduction and just have a choke plate.
With the coupler and plug tip setup I’ll have just about 1" long nozzles for the straight across.
The only gas tank my dakota is getting is out of a geo metro, fits nice behind the axel , after i remove the spare tire bracket.Though i replaced the rear frame on this one, so i wont have the brackets in the way. That little 11 gallon tank should last a long time, just useing for fast take off times , no fans used.or fans used while driving down the road, for couple miles.I will have too mount the dakota fuel pump in the metro gas tank do too fuel PSI is higher with the dakota.
Decided I’ll go for Imbert style. Thickest material I had was this 6" pipe that Steve Bowman gave me. I have one more piece that’s the same 5" length, I’ll probably end up using on the Cavalier.
My Mazda is basically going to be my test bed vehicle. Can X reactor make this sad worn out Ute go Country Road Speeds? Yes? Ok good enough!
Made a choke plate out of an old go kart disc brake that was hammered off the axle and got warped, and welded together two bearing races. Tightest portion is 3.25".
I’m going to weld on some tabs tomorrow so it will nest over the reduction tube. With this 6" pipe it’ll have 2" thick of ash to insulate it all around. Hopefully that’s enough.
I think the best part about welding thicker stuff is it goes faster. Wire speed out the wazoo.
I caint keep up with all the builds these days, is this mazda gasifier, a charco or wood gas unit or 50-50 wood and charco blend. Good luck, and thanks for posting your design changes- and testing changes. Looks like you got a good mig welder,my old snapon actualy a century with snap on label so for keeps on ticking.
