I’ve always referred to non-metric, non-whitworth, non-acme threads as Imperial because it’s measured using inches as the rule of thumb. Hole diameter and threads per inch.
I want to say Whitworth invented the first standardized thread pitches meant for industry use. He was a genius for sure, invented an incredibly accurate rifle that featured polygonal rifling with a hexagon shaped bullet. No need for a patch it just fit perfectly to engage the twist.
A lot people have good ideas but a lot of then fail to gain traction.
Like the Robertson socket head screw, I bet you have never even seen one lol…
Packard built Merlin engines in the USA but had to import tooling for the fasteners.
This was a hassle of course…
Post war the UK gov and the US gov tried to set a standard, with the UK finally caving in and adopting the AN bolt standard.
But at this point the EU was starting to be born and metric became the standard.
Someplaces just would not change, I have an engine from India made with witworth bolts.
Its a complicated mess to this day.
I once worked on English motorcycles. They were whitworth but it’s so long ago I can’t remember if I needed different sockets. Standard to me is SAE. The are either UNF or UNC depending on number of threads per inch. Deck screw used to be mainly square drive but now everyone has gone mainly to torx. Phillips? I don’t think I’ve used them in this millennia.
Decking screws here in Aus are square or torx head and we also have bugle screws that have a hex .
Tom what English bikes did ya work on ? born and bred just 10 miles from the BSA and of course all my life they have been my bike of choice , also have a few bonnies and a T150 still back in the UK stored in relatives place [i hope still ]
Hi Dave. Triumphs and Nortons. I did have a BSA 440 for a short while. I wish I had one now. First thing I did when I got out of high school was buy a new, 1965 Triumph TT. I traded that bike in 67 for a 1964 Sportster XLCH and never looked back. I’d find someone to sell those Triumphs. 60’s models are going for big bucks now.
I had a BSA.
Thing is a Brit fine 5/16 looks so close to an American UN ( I said AN in an earlier post this is my correction. ) that a previous owner put the wrong nuts on some parts.
They will thread on but your going to have troubles!!!
As for tools?
I do have some King Dick spanners ( giggle!!! ) in french gray so I think they are Milsupr that I inherited from my grandfather.
But if you lack the right tools you can still get by if you have a a good mix of metric and SAE Wrenches.
Some will fit some will not.
The battle of the deck screw:
For some reason all dry wall screws seem to be Philips.
I suspect its because the easily disengage from the bit when the carpenters are installing.
Most screws since the invention of the Robertson socket head are made the same way.
Think about it!!!
A flat screw needs a cutting process to make the slot.
The legacy of PL’s screw is these are all rolled and stamped operations now.
Screws have never been so cheap and reliable, be they torx, Robertson or any other proprietary pattern
You were right about AN standing for Army/Navy Wallace. They are fittings most often used on high pressure. My experience with them is for drag engines.
I think JIC also fits in there someplace…
You can force an AN fitting on a SAE fitting and they are close enough to seal.
But I would not put hydraulic systems pressures on it or for that matter use it for anything involving dangerous fluids…
Than said I squeezed some AN brass fittings down on some sae fitting for my generator fuel systems and they don;t leak.
Just because I did it does not mean they are compatible or what I did is a good idea
There is also GAS fittings I don;t understand.
I don’t know what they are but they do not match JIC or SAE as far as I can tell.
I have some nice stainless steel tubing I was thinking of using for a Steam generator that I salvaged from an old BBQ.
Its nice stuff but I don’t know what it is and its stainless…
Just thinking out more stuff for the Mazda, I haven’t given up on the old girl. Rear bumper is pretty messed up on one side, but it’s sectional. The center/main portion is still straight which is convenient, it’s where my trailer hitch is mounted anyways.
Gonna try to ask around for some C beams to bolt down to the center section and call it a day. I can mount the replacement tail lights on that way too with some cheap trailer lamps.
Dad gave me some better ideas for mounting the main hoop of the cage, trimming the front mounting spots for the old bed and welding them directly to the main hoop and have some other platforms to support the very bottom. Little bit of lateral and vertical.
Little update on the Mazda, I’ve finished the welds on the main hoop of the roll cage. I won’t be able to use the A Pillar supports, they’re too short to reach up to the roof hoop. I’m going to cope the ends of the A Pillars and weld them directly to the roof hoop to anchor the front end to something solid, and stiffen everything up a little.
Also finally managed to order some Model A Ford style tail lamps, the left lamp doubles as my license plate light. Had to order a pair of amber accessory lamps for the turn signals. I have a big 12v lamp that I might use as my backup/reversing light, or hide some small light bar pieces.
For the bumper, I can’t find any at the junkyards, and not having luck getting C beams, so I’m going to pull the mangled corner and just hammer it back out. That sheet metal portion is the only part that got warped in the wreck as far as the bumper is concerned.
I’m going with a narrow flat bed that sits between the wheels, and adding fenders. I am doing that mostly because I’ll only have about a 4 foot long bed and with a full width it would just look weird to me, almost perfectly square. I might change my mind down the road, and just use that free space to mount storage boxes. Would make handy fuel storage.
