If you add a metal pipe to that blower it won’t burn up so fast. It looks good.
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I know I was just rushing myself and didn’t have any duct tape to branch one on there. I wanted to add a longer tube on the exit to give it some radiating.
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I’m really wondering if I want to build a cyclone for this or try to just use an expansion chamber or drop box sort of thing. Like building the worlds worst cyclone on purpose
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Well your hooked now… No way back 
thats what l call a flare!
I cant realy tell but looking at the flutes, what colour are they? Did they start to glow or is this just the glare of the fire?
Well your next high will be adding moist charcoal in the hopper. Your gas is nice as is but wait till you hear the hydrogen flame roar!
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I think it’s a reflection, the bore and outside were of a relatively high quality finish. Very smooth. When I added some water inside the pipes the orange glow didn’t change so it isn’t temperature related, just the intense brightness coming from the reaction zone I guess. Since I only ran this for about 8 or 9 minutes the brightest color I could really see from the reaction zone was yellowish? Maybe a bright orange.
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I’m really pleased at how fast it was to get to flare. Now as long as I can keep the travel of the gas relatively short I could have it engine ready in maybe 5 or 10 minutes. Enough time for the engine to be warmed up itself so the idle will be smooth. Or maybe I’m being unrealistic in that expectation.
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You do plan to keep the original fuel injection right? For petrol warm up and hybriding?
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It has a carburetor but yes for warmup and hybriding.
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Oh l see. How will you batle the carb problem? 2 pedals? 2 throats? One pedal 2 TB linked like on my Mercedes?
Anyways… I am comfident to say you can look toward the low part of your prediction. Charcoal gasifiers are FAST. As long as there are all nozzles lit you can preety much crank on petrol, drive off and by useing the momentum of the car and the engine reving sucking the gasifier it will be 100% chargas in about a minute or two. Is the truck a manual or automatic?
As for filtration. I wuld not bother with anything more thain a sack filter. These things are compact, foulproof, if designed right allso self cleaning and the only way you get CLEAN gas to the engine. A must if you plan to draw the gas trugh the carb!!!
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It is a 5 speed manual, I’m not entirely sure yet which mix method I’m going to do. I’d really like to keep it as simple as possible. I also have a spare carburetor in case I really screw it up.
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I think with it mixing before it enters the carb I’ll be fine, since I’ll be starting and ending on gasoline to rinse any soot or whatever out of the intake. Might do a per oil change choke cleaner spray job to ensure the Jets don’t clog.
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Hi Cody, since you are going with duel fuel then start your engine up on gasoline then run it on charcoal when finish go back to gasoline. This will let you know if your carburetor is running alright for the next start-up. This is my practice when DOW.
Bob
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Sorry. this will not work to clean gas soots from the carburetor.
You said you had a spare?
Diassemble and carb-cleaner wand spray to follow the high up air-in bleeds openings. USE EYE PROTECTION.
These never see gasoline. ONLY clean filtered air. These WILL restrict clog. Then you start up run like shit back fire cough spit and choke-die.
This time of shoulder season frost air forming on these air bleeds give fits to those not maintaining their factory air pre-heating. A “mystery” condition. Because the frost melts, disappears, bye-bye.
Soots accumulated will not.
Flowing producer gas down through a gasoline carburetor obligates you to a lot of at least spray down thru the carb cleaning. Often. If you ever want to to work properly on gasoline again.
Regards
Steve unruh
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I don’t really have room for a secondary throttle, or rather a place in the intake manifold to mount a woodgas butterfly. My backup is a brand new Weber 32/36 electric choke. I’m leaving the original factory mikuni carburetor in for the time being while I experiment. I have gobs of good open cell foam that I could use in conjunction with a sack filter. Maybe a wool sack and then my tall ammo can full of the foam.
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Sure. Try.
My charcoal friends often tell me I am off base.
And you do have a fall-back; Plan B in your Weber carb. Only wet corrosive woodgas seem to actually ruin a carburetor.
Regards
Steve unruh.
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I’m not one to turn away any advice. But I am paranoid of clogging up the carb.
It almost makes me want to direct convert it to woodgas like Bruce did with his. I’ll see how it all plays out. I won’t put any gas to the truck until I get filtration done.
Luckily the Weber is aluminum and not the other material commonly used that woodgas REALLY eats up. I forget the name of that alloy.
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Once I have the setup done I’m going to do a dirt test with what I hope to be standard loads of charcoal, then maybe a wood add test with some percentage of pellets.
Draw the woodgas through a paper filter to see what gets through after a few hours runtime.
I will also still have my air cleaner filter to work as a final filter. If that clogs up I won’t be so mad. That can be replaced cheaper than taking forever to clean out a carb.
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Hi Cody, so you are planning to mix your air and char gas before your air cleaner on the engine. Right. Are you using the air cleaner housing air horn neck intake opening for a air valve control? And then right behind it have a char gas valve into the air horn? I have seen this done on other vehicles. When running on gasoline the air horn intake valve is full open and the char gas valve is closed. When running on char gas this valve is full open and the air horn intake valve become the control valve of air to char gas ratio mixer valve that is partially open. This is the plan of what I will be using.
It is important to know your char gas going to the engine needs to be dry, the final paper filter does not do well if it gets to wet and soggy.
Kristijan bag filter seems to work well for him, so this is what I am planning to use.
I do have MPFI system with a aluminium intake. Subaru Outback 1996 model engine.
Bob
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Yes I’m using the air cleaner housing to mix the woodgas and air. It already has a nipple for where the exhaust preheated air came in but now that I have removed the emissions stuff it is available to use. I plan to use cooling tubes along the bed, probably 4 total the length of the bed, going from Cyclone(or expansion chamber/drop zone), running along the bed and then the filter. I might run hay for any moisture and then a sack filter then plumb it to my engine.
I’ll take a photo of my truck and draw the form factor over it in a moment.
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