It’s just a 2 inch OD collector, I might have the muffler shop guy make it go back to the stock 1.75" which I think it was. I need to look it back up to be sure. The bends are too annoying for me to want to pull my hair out over. My dad knows a guy that runs a shop so hopefully I can get a decent deal.
The first flare would have been done but family has been visiting and I never get to see them. I wish I could have gotten it ready to flare just to show it off to them!
I just want to keep the collector the header came with because it has a nice O2 bung that I can plug an AFR gauge into
I might consider angling those so they are angled on both the horizontal and vertical axis to create a slight swirling effect. But I would actually have to think about it for a minute, because I have been looking at forge burners for a bit and that truly isn’t what you want… lol
I have notice drawings and diagrams that have air flow arrows drawn in. I have done this also on mine. Lol. But when you have charcoal pieces introduced these air flows patterns will change, the collision into charcoal, there is no swirling action like we think there is it is more of a turbulent air action going into and around many pieces of charcoal that is on fire burning up making charcoal gases and continuing throughout the charcoal bed until all the oxygen is completely used up. In my mind I saw swirling, but not any more. It is a collision of gases being changing by very high velocities, heat, frequencies.
Simply amazing.
Bob
I really just draw the arrows to show where the holes are pointing. I assume nothing other than where I aim it at. But then again I’m not knowledgeable with fluid dynamics.
Yes that is what I use the arrows for too. Lol
Watch water going down a stream through rocks is in a larger scale of what is happening and it is safe to touch. Put a big bolder in the stream and the water goes around it. This could be like slag build in the firetube. Observations is a great tool to be used.
Bob
Good to know. Should I add a lighting port or do y’all think it will light off from the flutes? I have noticed that Kristijan has scored a line to each flute hole on his build and iirc he said it helps it light faster.
Edit update:
Guy at the muffler shop said he could probably do it for less than 100 bucks as long as I don’t want a fancy muffler. As nice as a glasspacked cherry bomb would be this is just a truck. I’d put a Tommy Knocker on it if it gave me my bottom end.
Not any more. Only dad the slit on first flute but its completely useless maybee even dangerous (heat transfer reduced).
The way l like to light is first poke each hole with a slightly bent wire. Then when the gasifier fan is on, put a torch at the air intake. But the air holes on the torch being taped down so that you get a slow, orange and big flame. The flame will be sucked trugh each and everg hole and will light the gasifier in seconds. You might however need to close up one end of the flute at startups.
I use a piece of fiberglass stove gasket tied through a loop in a long piece of heavy wire with another loop in the other end for a handle. Put some kerosene on it, light, and stick it in the flute. With blower running, I hold it under each hole for just a bit to light each one.
Right now the burn tube ID is about 12ish inches. I have more material I just cut off from the lengthwise side of the roll to see how far it would get. I’ll reduce it down to 8 inches since the distance from flute to grate is also only 8 inches.
Here’s the sealant I got. Going to degrease the joints and wet them like instructions say. I think I’m going to use the bilge blower with a lid on to apply vacuum to try to suck some of the sealant in.
Instead of the ceramic wool, just let the charcoal lay in place of the wool. If you want a reduction hole cut a plate out and lay it on top of your mesh grate. That wool will make a mesh in the gasifer if no covered with metal. Ask me how I know this. And definitely ware a mask when working with it, it is nasty stuff on the lungs.
Bob
I shut it down because my sacrificial bilge pump started making noise. Didn’t find metal caps yet so I stuffed orifices with ceramic wool chunks and poured some water down the flutes. Ran it for about 8 minutes or so didn’t keep track of time after flare lit. This is dry very coarse and engine-spec mixed charcoal.
No bigger than my thumb sized charcoal but still pretty big for most.
It isn’t filtered yet, fan got sooty obviously. I don’t have a trommel yet to knock out the dust. I’m surprised it ran with how coarse this charcoal was.
And yeah I think I’m going to remove the ceramic wool. The refractory i ordered to give it a hard shell isn’t rated as high as the wool and I’d hate for it to crumble while going down the road. Plus it should give me more capacity.
That muffler sealant is hard as a rock now! Guess it got hot enough to cure. Flutes are way too hot to touch but I expected that.
