Just a little recall on your set up Kristijan, your nozzle tube with the holes in it. One end is the air intake and EGR, and the other end is for lighting and nozzle clean out. Is the nozzle pipe sealed at both ends of the gasifier chamber, so water can run through the nozzle pipe from the intake and out the the lighting port end with out getting water into the lower part of the gasifier burn chamber below the nozzle pipe?
The reason I am asking is, dripping water into the nozzle pipe would steam. That pipe has to be hot, as you put it, āthe pit of hell in that areaā, with being insulated now it is even hotter
now. The only thing I see is any excessive water not turned to vapor would need a place to run out. That would be your lighting port.
Now if you could make two ways for the air/exhaust to enter, one at the intake, and one at the lighting port, now you have two ways for your air/exhaust to come into your gasifier system and water to run out if needed. You would need a flapper valve on the light port side. You do not want any flames coming out of there, just excessive water.
This would give you a more even flow out the nozzle holes and more air if needed for power to make more producer chargas. I am sure your set up can make that car go faster down the road. Have you checked the vacuum pull at the char gas valve on the engine intake? If it is high vacuum could be starving the engine for what it wants, more chargas.
Lots of ways to do things. Just putting water in the exhaust pipe and let the hot exhaust make exhaust vapor would work.
The name of the game is make good gas and not making slag to plugging up the nozzles. My more then to cents worth.
I think it is @bsoutherland that has the water run it and out of his nozzle tubing.
One other thing that @Wayne mentioned is redundancy which to me also over sizing pipes for low fiction and vacuum caused by piping.
In video the noise in the car from the pipe valve you had in the car, sounded like vacuum fiction to me. Just some more of my way more then ywo cents worth.
Anyways I feel you have the coolest chargas car on the road for 2018 in your part of the earth.
Bob
Hello,
I absolutely agree with everything @Bobmac wrote above!
Kristijan, your nozzle should be hot enough to evaporate a few drops per second, and that is something you could start with. @don_mannes started with a few drops per second, too.
The nozzle was glowing red hot on the first idling video, is it so much cooler now with some slag that you doubt it would boil the water to steam?
Til
Hi guys, just came home from a family trip, 70 miles roundtrip. Man oh man it feels amazeing looking at the glued stuck fuel guage 
Mercedes runs strong and flawless. I filled rather corse char thugh, noticed a few glowing embers at refueling. Need to be carefull untill l get a temp probe.
Anyway this is where we went to.
I
Oops pressed āreplyā too soon.
Bob, l realy apreciate your concern!
Water can flow out trugh the air intake yes. The lightinhlg port has a āedgeā.
Problem. SteveU has sayd it many times. You need to make the gasifier soit your surroundings, not the opposite.
My surroundings are l live in a hilly land. 11% hilly roads are everyday buisness. In such cases, water pooled in the nozzlepipe is useles, it wuld just flow out.
Piping. My piping is on the small side. Main reason is lack of space. But, the thing is l like it. Its a bit if safety. Keep in mind my gasifier is in the trunk, l can not afford catasreopfhic overheating wirh overdrawth.
Til, dont know the exact temp, but it doesent glow anymore. For a few droos, might do the trici.
Ok thatās great Kristijan, you live in a very similar type of area like where I live, lots of hills to climb everywhere. That makes perfectly good sense to have it built the way you have said.
That is absolutely beautiful place of lights where you took the family.
Have been enjoying the video rides with you and the family. Thanks for sharing with us all.
Bob
I noticed hopper geting warmer and warmer at the end of my everyday drive to work, eaven saw glowing char while burning just a couple of inches of char in the hopper yesterday. So l decided to take a look inside. Unfortunaly the turn of events let me empty just about half of it, the rest tomorow. Anyway, l found a unusual amount of dust inside. For some reason l think it plugged the hearth alowing air to wormhole in the dusty char, lifting the reaction zone from the hearth tothe hopper. Explaned the supercool nozzle pipe had lately. Anyone seen this before?
Things l changed:
- l use slightly bigger fuel. The grinder neads adjusting.
- l use mixed hardwood/softwood char
- l restricted the air intake from 1.5" to 1", in order to draw in more exhaust
Edit, looking back at my post, l just realised l did the no1 woodgaser mistake. Changed more thain one thing at a time. Didnt seem wrong but there are protocols eaven with alternative fuel.
Hi Kristijan , as far as charcoal goes smaller is better to help keep the rat holes down to a minimum , and i guess the dust must be due to the vibrations of the car as it travels along , and that would certainly make the softwood charcoal crumble more easily , but i would have thought the charcoal dust would have been burned up along side the normal charcoal chunks , reducing the air intake dia , i am not sure if that would increase the flame hight inside the reactor though as the nozzle holes remain the same ,unless as you mentioned a few of the holes were blocked up and that would increase the velocity of the remaining holes making a higher burn ā¦
Dave
Oh, and l finaly got to watch the video Roger posted, about traditional charcookers.
I watched a few vids from local char cookers, and l find the simularitys of our traditons wery interasting despite being 2000km apart. Per instance, you can see the pile is lit by a woman. Such is a custom here allso. The whole process is similar, however piles here are lit at the center and smoke out on top.
Dave, l poke the nozzles clean at lightup, so thats not the case.
Your words started me thinking. What if the dust is sooty ash? It cant burn so that explains it, but shuld ash be so fine? And why doesent it all slag? I guess its best to empty it all first and seeā¦
This is wery interasting to me as l done quite some chargassing and never saw this phenomenom before.
Hi Kristijan
I also have seen the oxidation zone move from the nozzle and up into the hopper. When stopping for say a half hour or more, close off the air comming into the nozzle. The little bit of oxygen comming in an open nozzle seems to allow the fire to keep burning and causing it to move further up in to the charcoal. The ash will not usually slag up on you. It will fall as fine ash. You need a place for this ash to settle. If it settles where your air comes in, then it will accumulate there and force the fire to move to where the fuel is. When looking into the nozzle of the simple-fire, you can see the charcoal actually dropping down past the nozzle. Watch out for that large charcoal. It will allow your oxidation zone to increase in size since there is more space between the pieces of charcoal. It will even allow the fire to move upwards into your hopper. Softwood vs hardwood. Just longer run time with the denser fuel. Should be no issue with fire moving up into the hopper. The air intake seems small to me for a car engine. But this should not cause the problems you describe. Watch that fuel size. Iāll bet that is the main factor.
Gary in PA
Hi Gary, this is all good stuff you are all talking about here with Kristijan. I had no idea that this phenomenon would happen at shut down and the sizing of the charcoal being so important. Thanks for the information on this.
Bob
Thank you Gary, what you say makes perfect sence and fits all the simptomes.
As for the air intake cross section, l gradualy reduce it to force the gasifier sucking more exhaust. There has not been seen any power decrease so l am thinking of reduceing it further down.
Kristijan, how large is your EGR pipe coming out of the exhaust pipe now, and going to you gasifier? Is it the same set up you had before?
Bob
Its 15mm, about half inch. Yes same setup.
Hi Kristijan,
@glgilmore is absolutely right. The ash has to go somewhere or it accumulates around the nozzle and has to be removed frequently. And charcoal has more ash by the weight than wood.
There had been investigations in WW2 how long different designs of charcoal gasifiers can run without cleaning the hearth and how the reaction zone is moving with accumulation of ash and slag.
Til
Hi Til, it just surprices me the low gas outlet mesh doesent draw more ash out. This was its purpose, and to keep the hopper cooler.
Hi Kristijan,
also not sure why it is not that much self cleaning than expected.
I guess there may be three main reasons:
Compared to the KƤlle gasifier, you have less motion of the char particles. Thus the dust and ash settles more in the gaps than is drawn away with the gas. I think this is the main reason.
Second, you have relatively fine char. So you have a small reaction zone, but also a large surface which acts a bit as a filter.
Third, your char travel to your nozzles and then ādisappearsā into gas, leaving the ash behind. So everything accumulates in the quite small reaction zone.
How much charcoal do you have used without emptying the gasifier? You can roughly estimate 3% ash by weight of char. More if you have a higher amount of bark.
Iām wondering 
Do you think that preheating the primary air gradually? (can produce the same result as increasing the restriction!)
Hi Trigaux,
I am a absolute fan of preheating and retriveing exess energy, be it from gas or exhaust, but its hard to do on a car. Allso, preheating air in case of useing EGR has absolutely no benefits of any kind. Yes hoter air will alow to use more exhaust, but exhaust is nitrogen diluted and in term does nothing to richen the gas composition.
When useing water injection, the story is different. More heat retrived, more water/steam can be used. More water, less air per volume of gas, less air, less nitrogen dilution and in term richer gas.
If one culd retrive all the exess heat energy, no air wuld ever be neaded. But we dont live in a ideal worldā¦
Finaly got time to empty the gasifier. Til, to anwser your question, l burned about 60 kg wich is roughly 2kg of ash, so the dust from the filter and the ash retrived shuld about match this.
Now, the things l found out.
- there is no more slag! The reaction temperature seems to be spot on.
- the reaction area was indeed lifted with lightly sintred white ash.
-the rest of the gasifier holds up well.
The gasifier started super fast this morning and drove real strong.
Slowly working on the 75%. If this expression can be true for chargas well maybee 50% 
As l mentioned before, since the EGR tempered gas is so dry, the towel sack lets some fine dust trugh while inflating/deflating upon gas demand changes. Just not enough moisture to the dust to stick to the fibres. I decided to give a tighter material a try.
We are working with lime and limestone flour where l work, allso have a sack filter that has a bunch of big sacks in, made of thin felt or something similar. I āborrowedā a sack, stiched to shape and put in.
The felt is hard to blow trugh with your mouth but l dont notice any change in power on the car. Neither did l had to change the air seting so things look promising. One thing is for sure thugh, gas will need to be absolutly dry for this to work. Any moisture will plug it.
Allso, l think l have enough miles under my belt now to post a accurete fuel consumption. Its a lot beter thain expected, 10kg/100km or 3 miles/pound. It is worth mentioning char consumption went down drasticly with adding EGR! At 0 EGR, the consumption was about 16kg/100km or 2 miles per pound. The car drinks about 11l/100km runing on dino, or 26mpg. Just for refference.
Edit: forgot to point out the petrol l burn at hybriding with chargas, and for maintaining a steady idle. This calculation is still a guess but it looks like about 1-2l/100km.
Hi Kristijan,
this are some very good news!
Felt was also used for dry filter during WW2 with good success. But as you said, it is problematic with moist gas.
Looking forward how this new filter material will prove itself in your setup.
Your char-consumption looks great! In old books, there was a rule of thump that 1 litre of petrol equals about 1,5 kg of char without EGR or steam. That matches perfectly with your experience.
Very obvious to see how good the excessive heat in the gasifier can be used to recycle the CO2 from the exhaust instead of melting the ash to clinker 
Chapeau for your design!