ouch! Best to take care. Best wishes ! ! !
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Max,
I have seen your edit just now, sorry!
Ha! We had the same thinking! The woodgas throtle closeing as the petrol one opens that is. This was the original plan, but l made a mistake in the design while making the woodgas throtle. I wanted to make the woodgas throtle being able to go pass WOT, closeing gasflow. A sort of owerthrotle. But the flap axle is not cut exactly in half thus the flap only rotates 0-90Ā° instead of 0-180Ā° as was originaly planed. Now l will throtle the woodgas down with a nother flap when dino driveing.
You make a point on water injection. I agree.
Its time now to pull out the old calculator and notebook and calculate trugh some complex chemical equations to determin the optimal amount of water per liter of intake air to acheave perfect gas with a 100% conversion.
Allso, l was thinking to use carbonised water as my feedstock. That way l have a way of pressuriseing the water with no soffisticated pumps and stuff like that, while adding a bit of CO2 with the steam. Win win.
3 Likes
Hi, Kristijan!
Good continuation on Christmas!
Good to hear, that you are not hospitalized for your eye!
I think you misinterpreted my ā3 stageā flap operationā¦
If I have it right:
Stage
1: The wood-gas flap has an own closing (spiral) feather.
It is pushed open by the vertical rod, and stays open while the horizontal movement continues, and
Stage
2: Opens the gasoline flap (having its own closing feather). At the end, in
Stage
3: The vertical rod should be released, so the wood-gas flap can be āsmack-closedā by its own closing feather. (while the gasoline-flap stays open)
This way you need not to modify the wood-gas flap at all!
The āonly thingā you need to do, is to release the vertical rod and then with a new foot pedaling āfish upā the vertical rod again for opening the woodgas flap again.
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I think l see what you mean. For now, l will test it as it is, modifications later.
Ok l did some calculations. Theoreticaly, based on extensive knowlidge writen in the Gengas book, the calculator says at WOT and 2500rpm l need to inject 120ccm of water every minute, that is 200ccm of water or 200g of steam per every 1m3 of intake air.
This means for each kg of charcoal, 0.9kg water is injected. If l remember right, this is sort of the number @k_vanlooken got in his experimentations too.
Now, how to dispense the water.
First idea is wrap a copper pipe around the exhaust pipes, and wrap/insulate with glas fibre bands. Inject water in metered amounts and make steam, wich get injected in the gasifier.
Second is a carbourator style injection. Kind of hard to adjust but doable.
The simple drip has proven problematic with this nozzle style untill the thick nozzle heats enough, wich takes up to half a hour. Not good.
Last, l was thinking to make a sort of K-jetronic water injector. This wuld be most accurate and simplest in a way.
Edit; calculator allso says that theoreticly injecting steam in a charcoal gasifier saves up to 35% of fuel compared to pure air injection!
4 Likes
Hi, Kristijan!
27.12.2017
It seems the water dosageing by Electronic means gets an independence of the exhaust/air ratio; or you can adjust it convenient at the dashboard!
All water systems are a source of trouble in the winter when cars stay outside in day-parking during the day. Warm water filling in the morning does not cover the tiny tubes to the ādispenserā, especially, as the water-tank will sit higher than the ādispenserā, and back-flow to a warm tank has to be sucked uphill or air let in at the highest point of the tube (above the tank lid).
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I agree. EGR is much simpler, but, in my experiances, produces much weaker performance in a engine. We have rather mild winters last few years, today per example, 27.12.17 at 13.30 we have +10C. Frost danger is present about 2-3 months per year tops.
I want to have both EGR and water injection. I have EGR already, l know it works but it is only good for slow driveing up to 70 kmh. I will use it in cold days, other frost free days get water injection.
If it aids to power at all! First l need to test it. If the difference isnt revolutionary, l will stay with egr.
Edit allso, l think EGR and Automixer wuldnt fit together well.
3 Likes
Hi, Kristijan!
27.12.2017
EGR does not change the gas composition very much; adding the CO2 is just a way to add āfuelā and cooling down the processā¦
But water gives H!
So this does not make the auto dispenser obsoleteā¦and it can be trimmed off the 50/50 setting. 45/55 i.e. is no problem.
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Yup, that idea would work best, since it would not temper all the heat out of your āzoneā but use the wasted anyway energy from your exhaust, it would increase your startup power in cold condition from your gasifier.
just put a T section at the inlet to the gasifier, incase not steam yet, it can drop out.
Similar as i have with my trike, where the coil is wrapped around the gasifier/reactor to absorb/use that heat.
implementing your idea in my setup would be a nice enhancement for power but it might turn out that the original coil would cool down the steam after the exhaust coilā¦ 
sure on my list now to do testingā¦
About dosing / injecting the water: look at
https://de.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=AS_20171227054835&SearchText=dosing+pump+12v
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Iām reading this exchange with great interest and look forward to seeing what kind of water injector you make. I use a PWM and high pressure diaphragm pump with a misting orifice to control the water flow rate and aid vaporizing. I have wondered about adding alcohol for freeze protection. I assume 5% would lower the freeze temp and the boiling temperature a little. Alcohol would be expensive for the optimum volumes of water you have calculated.
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Hi Kristijan
do you intend to send the water into the gazogene (in theoretically perfect quantity) without taking into account the internal temperature of the oxidation - reduction reaction?
This might be useful in your case !
It is the water level that varies the flow of steam in the generator.
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This looks like a great way to add steam and regulate it at the same time. I can see it working in warmer climates where there is no freezing temperatures. But it is not going the work where I live, unless I use a mix of some sort of antifreeze and that might clog things up quickly. If it could be made self draining on shut down of the engine it might work, just more bells and whistles to mess with. Needs to be hassle free.
Bob
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Hi Bob,
Might be useful with the wood condensate ?
I am doing experiments with freezing and boilingā¦ Not frozen at -15ĀŗC but looking for a lower temperature
I keep saying here, āif the Tar can burn, the smokey fumes can be used thenā
3 Likes
Hi, Thierry!
28.12.2017
That seems to be a slow adjusting device! Just for stationary or boat use.
The fire-surface is the regulating device; more fire-surface ā more steam, if the exhaust temp stays about the same. The float chamber position regulates the fire ā surface in action. Hang in hoses.
That is too slow for any mobile action.
A selfdraining carburettor or electonically operated injector are the only fast responsive devices.
I have done waterinjection for motor kerosine driving in -35 Celsius for a few years, had to self-drain a carburettor without a float, just overflow regulation.
Watertank was melting in 15 minutes on gasoline running and coolant battery on the bottom of the tank.
Then gasoline off, kerosine on, and water pumping to the carburettor on.
Waterpump was a submerge type on the bottom of the tank, melted first, as near to the coolant circulating tubes.
Itās doable if you donāt hurry in the morningā¦
2 Likes
Koen, I really like that presumption. Obviously if the condensed smoke is introduced into the gasogen below the cracking capacity of the zone of oxidation-reduction,
The challenge is to regulate the injection exactly
If condensed fumes could be reintroduced into the gas generators, the thermal balance of the coal will be all the better. 
Hi , Max
I also believe that this device has too much inertia to regulate finely
injection of substances to crack in a reactor. I just wanted to share this beautiful principle with you all. An āinstant steam generatorā could be useful in other circumstances or inspire other constructions
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Max, culd you explain how wuld you trim a automixer? Bypass?
Koen, exactly my thinking.
We had such metering pumps in a lab l once worked at. But it wuld require some electronics to regulate?
I like your idea wery much. Injecting condense produced at makeing charcoal that is. It contains some burnables, its a nice way to dispose it, frost resistant and has no minerals to clogg the boiler tube. But acetic acid reacts with copper??
Thierry, the link doesent show pictures to me.
Yes, you are correct. I am not afraid for high temps, l ran this stile nozzle in my Seat without any EGR or water, worked well. Its the hidrogen l am after.
Bruce, yes your sistem is great. Whats the max water output it produces?
5% alcohol is a bit too low. Its about the concentration beer has and l made quite a few beer ice creams forgeting to put beer cans out of the freezer before 
l was thinking about a week solution of antifreeze, perhaps eaven old used one. Dispose an dangerous waste and add a few calories (etylglicol is burnable)
Well l finished the filter yesterday. Forgot to take pictures, but its a copy paste of my Seats sack towel filter. The old stiching machine got dust blewn off a bit 
Only difference is on my Seat, the gas came from the outsideof the sack, trugh the towel and supporting cage, and in trugh the core of the sack. Now, gas comes from the inside, much like Bobs new sack filter. The reason is the gas plumbing fitted much better thatway.
Now, l will just shake the dust out of the sack periodicly. Much like a vacuum cleaner bag.
After some hickups l got the car runing on chargas. The air control is wery primitive, a hose and a valve extending to the drivers seat, l wanted to test the new throtle mechanism. Seems to work realy well. Allso, l noticed that when l press the pedal enough to ingage the petrol flap, the vacuum splits between woodgas and petrol flap thus releafing the draw on the gasifier. The more the petrol flap is pressed, the less gas is drawn from the gasifier wich is great!
Need a stronger spring for the WG throtle thugh.
Allso, there is something l didnt give much attention yet. Idleing. Now l need to make 2 bypasses that can be operated independably, one for petrol idle and one for woodgas idle.
6 Likes
Hi, Kristijan!
28.12.2017
Some time ago Chris made a lego model of two separate (but equal) throats maneuvered from a centered common disk, in which you can regulate the radius of the the two opposite points in a slot across the disk.
One point in the slot gets bigger radius as the opposite point gets a shorter radius.
These radius-points in the slot are connected with their individual connecting rods with the cranks on the first mentioned flaps in the two throats.
Finding the video tells very clearly how proportionality for the two throats is varied in to directions
0 ā 100%.
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I have found the video. Great design and great lego wokmanship by Chris 
not teribly complicated either. But as l understand, this is not a part of a automixer
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Hi,Kristijan!
28.12.2017
I havenāt found it yet! Can you put down the address, please?
It is the hart of all mixing, the preceeding membrane and air-flap is just to deliver gas and air at the same pressure to the dispensing/regulating part.