But wuldnt the membrane “fight” to establish the equalibrium that the variable dispenser sets?
Hi, Kristijan!
28.12.2017
The two throat flaps have equal vacuum behind (under) them.
If they are opening equally much, they will flow equally much,
if the arriving pressures to them both are equal!
The net pressure drop over (above to below) the both flaps must be equal to acheive the same flow in both flap openings.
The membrane measures the pressure difference between the arriving gasline in the motorcompartment and the incomming airflow after the membrane-regulated airflap.
The air-leg pressure after the membrane-flap will then be the same as is in the gasline at the points of the sampling hoses.
When that is established, both throttle-flaps will have equal flows.
Then we can change the openings in the 2 flaps, to change the flow- and mixing ratio.
Can I have the address of this video, please?
I posted the link of the video above. But it came out as a click on window, dont know how to post a writen “code”.
But heureka! I just got a idea!
Say we make a dual diafragm as DJ did on his Volvo. Now, imagine one “mickey mouse ear” 10% bigger thain the other. That ear will have more force and will overpush the smaller one by 10%! This means, the partial pressure of its flap will allso be 10% bigger resaulting in a 40/60 gas air mix! Am l mistakeing?
Hi, Kristijan!
28.12.2017
Yes, you are right; nothing new under the sun, contemplated 1984 already as working on oxygen mixers…
Shifting the middle-point on the boom between 2 membranes instead of
keeping track on the difference between arriving gaspressure and regulated airpressure is putting things completely “free-floating”!!!
First we have to have available “arriving” gas and air on the same level, before we are attempting to dispense controllable flows!
Short cuts are no perfection, when doing good work.
There is no controllable dispensing, if one flow-leg is the arriving gas pipe, and the other leg is a pipe with a flap! The dispensing throats have to be identical after pressure difference sampling and established control thereof.
Reality is harsh, sometimes…
When arriving pressures and flows are equal, we can start a controllable dispensing to the best of aims.
Under which cathegory did you find the lego video?
I searched for the video on Criss Youtube channel.
Ha, ofcorse, the sun seems one cant find out anything new those days…
You mean changeing the lever ratio between the two membranes? Makes sence…
Yes lagree on identical gas and air legs being optimal, l tryed that way and a normal Y mixer with a automixer on my Chevy, cant say l saw any difference.
Adding yet a nother 2 throtle bodys wuld be pishing the complexity here.
I still have my Chevys automixer, l will try that one first, see where the road takes us.
Hi, Kristijan!
28.12.2017
There is no need to double dispensing throttles; I just took them as normal in this talk about PRE arrangements.
These two flaps can be operated with the shown system in the video.
Wanted just to clarify what is needed before in the stream.
Now think about dispensing air and gas flaps both being wide open:
This reveils the big difference between the short air tube and the long gas-tube with attached different resistances…
It is in this situation that the sampling membrane has its main role: It has to form an air resistance equal to the resistance (and dynamics) as the long gasline has.
After that we have equal “opportunities” to dispense the gas/air ratio we want!
At small and big power.
Thanks again for posting this conversation. I don’t know what the maximum water output is for my system, but I found some notes. At full load WOT, I have it set for 4 ounces per minute.
Bruce and @KristijanL, that would mean going WOT down the road will consume something like 10 L/100km. That’s about the amount of gasoline a normal car would drink.
I like @gasman’s advice of using a car-carburator. It would fit perfectly.
Yes thats about right JO. It equals wood consumption as such.
Wood is a carbohydrate, meaning its composed roughly of 50% chemicly bond water and 50% carbon by mass. In a wood gasifier, useing 100% dry wood, l wuld expect to use 20 kg/100km of wood, or 10kg of charcoal + 10kg water. Same cat skined differently
A water carburetor would be close to perfect, but will tend to direcrly cool the combustion zone, and won’t work until a significant operating temperature is reached. As Max has mentioned, a tee to allow water to run out would address that, and also serve as a safety against flooding.
But it seems to me that this doesn’t make most efficient use of waste heat, injecting steam into the reaction zone seems to have advantages. I wonder if a simple reliable mechanical solution to this is available? Might it be simpler to bow to technology, and use a mass airflow sensor to meter water with a peristaltic pump through a steam generator, controlled by a computer?
Garry, and others, how about using a tube in the exhaust pipe pointing against the flow of exhaust coming out from the engine, and another pipe ahead of that pipe with steam being introduce into the exhaust system when the engine RPMS increases the exhaust flow increases carrying both exhaust/steam into the pipe heading for the gasifier reactor.
In the engine compartment is a exhaust/steam carburetor hooked up with throttle cable linkage for controling open / close and regulate exhaust/steam flow to intake of gasifier.
This insulated exhaust/steam pipe is connected up to the intake of the inline carburetor, the carburetor connected to the pipe that is heavy insulated going to the intake of the gasifier, carburetor is set for idle amount of exhaust/steam to be metered into the gasifier reactor at all times.
Steam would be created by the gasifier, so no steam will enter until the gasifier is up to temperature for cracking H2O.
This is the idea that I’m planning on using in my charcoal gasifier.
You will be able to control the steam and exhaust separately from the driver’s seat.
I’m sure it could be used on Kristijan car also or any vehicle.
Any thoughts on this idea anyone?
Bob
If I’m understanding your word picture correctly then, You plan to pressure feed exhaust gas into the carburetor and then moist exhaust will be fed to the gasifier inlet nozzle? I’m not seeing where the other steam pipe in the exhaust system fits into the plan.
What about corrosion issues of the carb from the nasties in the exhaust?
Good point Andy, on possible corrosion problems on a small engine carburetor, I’m just using the butterfly valve part of the carburetor but it might get stuck. Need to make it serviceable.
The extra steam added to the exhaust system is needed in dry climates like where I live in summer, this will maximize the H2O in the reduction hot zone for cracking H2O for more Hydrogen power if needed. People living in high humidity climate will not need this extra steam added.
The mixing in the tail pipe will be after or down stream of the muffler the last few feet of the exhaust pipe.
Making that part stainless steel will help with corrosion in the exhaust pipe system. Thanks for the input.
Bob
If anyone has a exess basket of lemons, send them here. I performed the first sucsessfull charcoal drive to work today
I tested the sistem yesterday, wanted to do a video but father in law slipped off the road with his car in the hard snowing we had, neaded a tractor pull and when l got back home it was already pitch black.
Anyway! The test drive today reveals many misteries.
Remember me reporting lame power at the last test with a top speed of 70kmh (45mph)? Well, turned out l had a partial plugg in the cooler with suspended soot that must of flown to a corner when the car was parked and dryed hard with the car runing only on dino for a month. I rinsed and cleaned the cooler.
Its a different story now! 90kmh was no problem, max speed will have to be determined on the highway.
I will explain more of the sistem in a walkaround video but for now, this is what was observed:
- since power is satisfactory with just the EGR l use now, l see no reason to complicate things with any gizmos related to water injection. I will add a simple manual water drip or something similar (l like your idea @Bobmac of the steam pipe being located inside the exhaust pipe!) to add a bit of water when a longer hard pull is expected, otherwise l think l will use only EGR.
- the engine isnt picky at all to what air/chargas mix l feed it. It runs well at allmost any seting with my primitive 3/4" ball valve l use temporairy.
This sayd, for now, l see no reason to complicate things with a automixer. I will invest in a AFR meter to aid my wife when she drives, otherwise l will make a simple manual air flap.
Cant wayt for my shift to end, and DOW home!
Alright Kristijan, good news to hear. With it being winter there, I’m sure you are getting lots of extra moisture into the gasifier system to crack H2O.
You are riding in style and on the black magical fuel.
K.I.S.S. keep it super simple. That’s a good plan.
Are you still using the cyclones up front after the coolers and before your mixer?
How many miles or Kilometers on a hopper load?
Congratulations on a build well done.
Bob
I am a big fan of K.I.S.S. Sometimes we have to “bow to technology” as ga Garry sayd, otherwise simple is best.
No, the cyclones are gone. No point of adding extra drag, they were designed to expell moisture and fine woodgas soot, chargas lacks any of these.
Well, range. Kind of soon to say just based on a 20km drive, let me just say l smiled looking in the hopper at the parking lot
The hopper holds, if l remember right, about 80l (20gal) of char. This means about 30 pounds of hardwood charcoal, you do thmath
That’s Great Kristijan, looking forward to a walkaround/driveing video.
Bob
Hello Kristijan.
Good to hear the news of the new gasifier . Keep us posted and make a driving video when you can.
Sorry . No lemons to spare around here
Me too
Me too
Edit: …if that expression is still allowed to use
Congratulations!
Please help me understand your experience. My performance varies greatly depending on air/chargas mix. My mixture is controlled by a gate valve on the air supply of my gas mixer.