Pepe,
I was looking back on this post as well. You were questioning how my lid may work during a puff back. To follow up, I have to say I am very pleased. The guide I have is bored out slightly bigger than usual to make sure it will slide easily. When my unit puffs back, it is only a short hiss to relieve the pressure and it’s done. I also like being able to open it from either side depending how the wind blows.
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Bill,
I’m glad to hear the most important part of your gasifier is working well. The lid gets a lot of trials.
Bill,
This is funny, I had a pretty good puff off yesterday on a trial run for the fun of it. Thankfully, my lid works well, too. I caught part of it visually, but the noise is like a big rattle You can see it here; at about 1m42s. I ran my only running engine, my 8 hp B&S. Revisited leaving the vac(fan) running while starting the engine. Some quizzical looks from me, I’m sure.
Pepe
Hi Pepe
Be a day or so before I can load up and video “hear” in Net slack time. Engine running always makes my ears pop up.
Here’s one that I’m surpized people overlook and don’t bug me about. Most of Ben Peretson’s works show a lack of blow off capabilty. ??? Yes. Look. Why? With stout safe construction is was found mostly contained poofs was a good way to grate and packed lower char bed clear. Could even back flush downstream build-up and cloggings. (the negative pressure waves oscillations after an over-pressure wave event) Bo-o-o-a-ng!!!
Takes very stout constructing though to be safe. Why he would never let me use plastics on anything.
I see you building this stout Richard. Makes it HEAVY. Too heavy for most vehicles. Just fine for stationary.
REgards
Steve Unruh
Thought I’d post a video of a one of my early test runs.
Thanks much .
Your looking good!!
My trusty 8 hp Tecumseh HMSK80 quit on me during my last burn. It was my only running engine. The valve clearance is zero on both valves which I thought was odd, since it had run great for years. I would have expected too much clearance. I’m thinking I’m going to have to grind the valve stem .003" to .004" so I can hone the seats. Then regrind the stems to specs. Anyone have any other ideas on the reason for tight valves? My family has owned this brand new since day one and it has never been torn down.
I just received my 8" 3 jaw flywheel puller and pulled a flywheel with a sheared key. I set up and torqued on the bolt quite a bit until it popped off with a loud snap. It was so loud I thought I snapped the flywheel. It was fine. I did however find a keyway configuration I’ve never seen before. The shaft keyway is 1/8" and the flywheel keyway is 1/4". The key is one piece.
I’ve got a new fan blower to play with and adapt. It’s used to blow up play houses, etc, outdoor use, continuous use. I’m hoping I can control the fan speed.
Hopefully I can get up and running in a couple of weeks.
Pepe
Pepe, it looks like you could advance or retard timing depending on which way you insert the key.
Hi Don,
Thanks for the comment, it made sense, but I just found this gem this AM, after much searching
Pepe
I finally got a few hours to set up my unit inside. I outlined all the bases on the floor with a magic marker for reference. Before I stood it up, I checked the burner to cyclone shroud gasket. It appears to have been leaking and gradually the heat ate up the wood stove fiberglass door gasket material I used. Thus the explosive flare starts I witnessed in the video I posted in my 08/01/2014 post @ 09:55 hrs. I’ll have to find something more heat resistant and/or reconfigure the connection. Maybe a sleeve type connection?
Here’s a short vid of emptying the ash collector on the cyclone with an appropriate notation to move on.
My next step is to layout the cooling tube number and locations on my monorator hopper. Later I’ll remove the preheat shroud and hoist the monorator hopper with burner unit off the base unit, check gaskets, clean out the char, etc. At this point I can also remove the hearth and check it or replace it with a different hour glass configuration. So far I like it just like it is. Gasket performance is my main concern. I’m also going to put a hinge and quick latch on the base cleanout door.
Pepe
Hello Richard
Valve clearance will get less as the valve face & valve seat wear.If there is no adjustment just grind a bit of valve stem.If you have no specs.,I wood say .008 thousands for intake valve and .010 for the exhaust.And it will be just fine.
Calvin
Hi Calvin,
Thanks for the info. I’ll take a look at the valve seats and valves. I’m curious about how much wear there is.
Pepe
Pepe, THAT is a great looking machine!
I have been getting puffbacks on mine from air leaks too. I don;t hardly flinch anymore. Most are from not emptying gas first or trapping oxy in start-up.Operator error. I have been experimenting with my adapter sleeve and getting anywhere from ‘less than good’ to GREAT! results. I’m learning the machine much better. I wish I had made mine more disassembly friendly like you have. Next one I will. good luck to you. Gordon
Hay Pepe; Where I have steel to steel flanges and I want to seal them I get a product from Manards
Be sure to read what it says. There are several that look just alike. The one I uses says good up to 1375 degrees. I don’t think it is flexible. It drys hard. I have to take a wire brush on a drill to clean the surface after use But, when you have bolted together flanges, it seals them very well.TomC
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Pepe,
That’s interesting how some of it is still intact. Could it be possible that a small air leak developed where the two ends met together and just got worse with time? I remember at one time Steve U telling me that if one is going to use a gasket, to spend the money and get a continuous gasket. Of course he told me over a year ago, so I may be remembering it wrong. But I’m wondering if this is the reason? I also remember him telling you to put two rows in to balance it out.
While I agree with your other advice I would tack weld a nice fitting sleeve inside of the outgoing side of the gasifire before the joint until after the joint as a heat shield. I did this on my flanged crossovers but inside that I made a double walled insulated pipe as well. it is about 5/8" thick filled with mineral wool. It is ready to bring outside and crack off but I am waiting for temps to get up in the 20s so a guy can spend the day out there. Was looking for a pic but I need to get a new cord to upload them. Dam puppy but in his defence it is the only thing he has destroyed.
Hi Jim,
Thanks for commenting. I did mention a sleeve connection in my post above. I thought it would do just what you mention as a heat shield. Man, if it’s not one thing, it’s another chewing up the hours, lol. This is the first time that gasket has been destroyed. I think the shield fitting into the outgoing side is correct also. I will try it using the same gasket material also. The cyclone shroud is relatively easy to R & R.
Pepe
Hi Tom,
Thanks for the link. I found the 1375 degree F stuff. If my sleeve doesn’t work, I will give this stuff a try. I just remembered there is also a firestop material that we used on the NYC and LRR cars we built in Plattsburgh, NY. I’ll have to get some specs on it from my former QA team members. It was a red moldable material. Can’t remember if it eventually set up, though.
Pepe
Hi Bill,
Thanks for commenting. That’s what I love about this site, there are many folks jumping in to help. I think that’s exactly what happened and I agree that a single piece gasket would be ideal. I’m hoping the firestop I mentioned above will fit the bill along with the sleeve. I had added the double gasket and Steve noted the added advantage of equal pressure to keep the joint tight.
Pepe
Thanks for the update. I haven’t taken a long look at the site yet, but I will.
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Pepe, I used stove rope and the 2000° adhesive that came with it from Menard’s. I worked the adhesive into the rope first let it dry a little then slight even pressure when I assembled to let it dry. After it had time to dry is when I snugged it up. Seemed to work.