My original idea does not cool the gas at first at all! Take raw gas from the cyclone, cool to ~100-120c and pass trugh the paper filter. Then, cool, condense, run trugh the engine compartment cyclones to expel the participated moisture and to the engine.
This shuld allso be the fastest startup way, at gas from the cyclone shuld reach 100c faster thain heating the whole gas reheating mantel can be possible. Thods?
First, l will go the easyest, and allso safest way and work from there. I will pass the gas stright from the cyclone to the coolers. Then, cold and driping wer/foggy, send trugh a open cell foam filter, similar to yours on the Audi, where all the soot shuld combine with the fog in form of bigger sooty droplets. Those will now pass two final high velocity cyclones, wich will extract all the sooty droplets. After that, a slight reheat and stright to the engine.
This way is safest too, becouse this way there is no woodgas danger related things in the inclosed trunk, except the hopper.
If this lets too much soot trugh, l will be forced to go your way, building a reheat mantel and filter, in the trunk. Or, try out my original idea, allso, in the trunk.
Can you explain what you ment with the sootbag?
As for rinsing the cooler, it has become a routine to wash the cooler and the car every Sunday when l had the Checvy, so thats a reasonable interval for me as such.
13.10.2017
The mantel on the cyclone is “instantly” following the internal temperature!.
After the cyclone, use your famous “soot-bag” filter while hot, and then to the cooler under the vehicle bottom and the twin wet cyclones!
Come back from the wet cyclones mantling around the exhaust pipe, but that is a slower way than using the gasifier’s cyclone mantel! Then to the paper filter.
You have presented the soot-bag filter on the Chevy, one of your applicationes in the alu-box.
Question Kristijan, when passing the cold wet/driping, foggy gas through a open cell foam filter, does the filter become a wet scubber of sorts and some of the tars, soots remain there dripping into some kind of Resvior in the bottom of the filter, how do you keep it from clogging? Or do you have to do frequent wash outs to keep it clean to pass the wood gas?
I am leaning more and more to the hot filter way for simplicity and space savings. Go to Ben Peterson YouTube Ford Mustang running on charcoal/hydrogen gas. Watch the video and you will see a hot filter he is using. He only shows it for a second, I stopped the video to get a good look at it. This is the hot filter that I am building.
You should have room to put it in the trunk area of your vehicle. It is after the cyclone filter. Take a look at it.
Bob
Yes, correct! It becomes a scrubber! But, the participated dirthy water sooner or later travels with the gas stream to the cyclones.
If you remember, l had the wery same kind of hot filter you talk about on my chevy for a while. I decided to go back to cold filtration for a number of reasons.
-l culd not find suitibly tight woven glassfibre fabric, the welding blanket did loosen up some fibres, leting soot trugh after a few 1000km.
-every cold filter catches some potentialy produced tar. Hot filter extracts NONE.
-the fabric is not cheap (here)
-in case a fibre accidently gets sucked in the engine, it can do serious damage as it bakes/fuses to piston/piston rings. Its silica nevertheless…
I dont know what kind of fabric you have, but if you look at DJs Volvo or BenPs build, the fabric seems realy tight.
If you plan to make a stationary charcoal gasifier/filter l wuld advise a much simpler, and cheaper towel sack filter. It works smazeing with dry chargas.
This is a pic of the towel filter l talked about. It requires minimal cooling after the gasifier, slightly moist gas doe no harm to it, aids to efficiancy actualy.
It works with woodgas too, but only if the gas isnt too wet. Then the water starts rinsing out the soot trugh the towel.
I know GarryG adopted this kind of a filter on his recent project, hadnt reported the resaults?
Thanks Kristijan, that is good to know about the welding blanket loosing up on the fibres and not filtering at all. I will have to go to the bag material that Ben is using for this kind of filter. This site is great, You just saved me a lot of work from using the wrong material. I am sure I can get the right material.
Bob
Ha, l only trim my moustaches with woodgas puffs, so without DOW for so long they grew wery long
Opened up the gasifier, all looks well.
The Thein baffle is a big sucsess! I found about 2 cups of a mix of charcoal and ash, much like JO reports on his rabbit. No sparks seen while flareing, indicateing the baffle takes them all out.
Well if actually “free” then get it.
Fossil coal chunks can be woodstoved with care. And unlike wood, will store forever. No bugs or microbes will be eating it.
You can then use it for experimental trialing on many things.
Regards
tree-farmer Steve unruh
I’ve seen Anthracite (hard stuff) listed as good gasifier fuel in old publications and read somewhere that it was the preferred fuel for British charcoal gasifiers during WWII. I haven’t tried it in mine yet, but assume that the higher density of the coal will give a much longer driving time between refills. Maybe a bit harder on the filters.
