Tom,
No need to feel bad! I am learning things as l build
Ok the plan for the gas path is:
From the gasifier gas goes to the cyclone to drop soot. It then passes a small cooler wich will cool it down to ~100c, and then pass a semi hot sack filter. From the filter gas goes to the big under the car cooler where gas cools, drops moisture and becomes that “foggy” gas most just run to a engine. The gas then passes the cyclones where all the microscopic droplets can fall out of the gas, so does potential tars. This still 100% wet gas gets heated just a few degrees where the moisture content falls to lets say 80% moisture, and at this point, gas is considered dry.
I think a WK extracts so much water at the hopper, plus it has great water to gas conversion wery litle gets to the coolers. Since l am space limited l must unfortunaly go with a lmbert style and wery litle hopper condensation. This means l expect quite some after the cooler condense.
Thank you for the explanation. I was looking at just a small part of the system, up by the radiator. When you look at the entire system, I see the small parts work together. Thank you for taking the time to explain. TomC
Thank you Kristijan, that makes more sense to me now. I still want to try a couple of cyclones at the back of my cooling rails to see if I can pull moisture out and into the condensation tank below.
Bob
I am finished with the “infrastructure”, so l decided to hook up Chevys alubox gasifier and go for a testdrive.
Had some trouble at first, but now it seems to run fine. Ofcorse, the gasifier is much too small for a 2.3l engine, so no speed records, but idleing and up to 70kmh drive was nice. Acceleration too.
I got a few intake manifold backfires. Anyone has anything to say about that?
Thanks for the view of your countryside, nice. I grew up in Tupper Lake in the Adirondack Mountains, so I’m a country boy, too. I have the opposite problem. I built a huge gasifier and I’m running small engines, which sometimes don’t pull hard enough for a proper run.
Pepe
I always enjoy your videos especially of rides in the country side, but I have a question. Only the center 1/3 of the picture s clear. I can vaguely see the other 2/3rds but not clear. Why is that. Some others do that also. TomC
Kristijan, you are a fast builder indeed. I wouldn´t be surpriced if there´s a new, bigger gasifier in the trunk tomorrow
I remember you mentioned you can advance the timing a bit only by pushing a button. Is there a noticable difference in the way the MB runs?
Hi Tom, if Kristijan would turn his phone 90* it would make the video width longer and not so tall. Some phones will not do this feature to auto rotate. You have to do manually, setting it up before you start your video.
Bob
16.9.2017
Induction from one sparkplug cable to another is happening on some motors.
Coaxial cable-sock on each sparkplug cabel and ALL together grounded in ONE point on the distributor shaft. Only ONE common grounding point!
Otherwise the igntion-currents may make induction, dispite the capacitive shielding.
But, be careful near the sparkplug-hats and on the distributor-cap!
Protect the ends of the coaxial braids from makeing “wet bridgeing” to the inside of the caps and distributor lugs, at damp wet weather!
Self vulcanizing tape, one inch over the braid-ends will stop “wet-bridgeing”.
The tape stops a capillar wet film to develope on the surface of the cabel, between the braid and the cable-conductor-end.
Lubricate the distributor-cap and rotor inside, as well as the sparkplug hats with lithium vaseline.
That takes care of the “foggy” weather trouble for a whole year.
Tom, l do not know. Video is clear on my phone, once uploaded to youtube, first it comes out foggy then clears. If someone has a idea, plese say.
Bob, l will try it next time thanks!
JO, yes, the button is installed but l see no real difference, but then again, l dod drive only about 30km so far so too early to tell.
Ha, the gasifier will have to wayt a bit
Max, you are reffering to the backfires? If so, this makes sence…
Yes, I am referring to the backfires. Lithium vaseline spray is a must inside the distributor cap, and on the rotor!
Once “skin creaping” on the inside of the a distributor cap starts, it is hard to control the insulation any more! Any black “spark routes” must be carefully removed, without spoiling the original “glassy” surface. Then spray with for example:
WÜRTH HHS 2000 (here written with German alphabet)
Spraying once a year (in the autumn) will keep the internal insulation immune to humidity!
(In fact in ALL electrical connectors, switches, fuses, etc…needs HHS 2000
to avoid oxidation!
That’s the other good part of this stuff!
Oxidations make heat by miserable contact, sometimes the heat starts fires…That’s the other good property of lithium vaseline – keeping contact)
WURTH HHS 2000 is hard to find in the USofA but well worth ordering in.
My go-to proven for door locks, latches, sliding door bearings, etc. Penetrates, then dries thickens/skins.
Try a European specialty auto shop.
Thanks MaxG
S.U.
While at vaseline and grease, there is another, heavier “homemade” mixture that “never” dries or becomes cheese.
Molybdene disulfide, MoS2 if remembering correct, is used for heavy ball-, roll-, and gliding bearings. Usually also used in vaseline presses lubricating through lubrication nipples…
It usually starts slowly to dry out, as the liquid in it is a thin mineral oil which slowly evaporates, and the “cheesing” proscess is unavoidable.
But, if you mix in ~25% STP oilreatment into it, it will stay as is
for 30 – 40 years!
The reason is: STP is a compound of LONG MOLECULES that cannot evaporate.
The thin mineral oil is since long gone, when your greased component still looks as treated yesterday. Thick syrup texture.
I use it for all electrical connectors, that are not “tampered” every day, but once in a year or more seldom, like light bulbs… accumulator poles, hinges, etc.
Max, l did get a mild shock touching the ignition cables, lools like they call for replacement. Will do as you say when l get to it!
I did some progress today, the gasifier is about finished, its a grateless, all adjustible, most likely double air nozzle plane. pictures later.
Anyway, thanks @TomC for introduceing the thein baffle to me. I have scratched my head a lot today trying to squeeze in a cyclone, but a baffle is indeed more compact. To be made tomorow.
Max,
The gasifier is much similar to my old one. I have found that eaven thugh the height between restriction bottom and the reduction bottom was just 15cm, l culd always put my hand on it eaven after hard pulls. It seems charcoal/ash is a amazeing insulator.
22.9.2017
Yes, it is. Still, after a cleaning, without any ash in the char yet, the siporex makes a “guarantee” insulation independent of the bed condition.
Full temps immediately. Less heating of the trunk, where all cooling will be difficult…
Max you have mentioned it twice. I looked it up in the dictionary ( English) and didn’t find it. So I have to humble myself and ask; what is “siporex”. ( ha! Even my spell check can’t figure it out) TomC
