Hope Max doesent mind me anwsering in his name,
Siporex is a generic name for foamy insulative building bricks. They look like tiny cement bubbles compressed together. Werry insulatibe and allso withstand temperatures well over 1000c.
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Hi, Tom!
23.9.2017
If I remember right, it is a swedish - finnish developement produced mainly in Sweden.
SIPOREX is the brand (product) name.
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I am preety sure the name its self must be of Slavic origin. “Sipa” means cutlefish in most slavic languages, and the backbone of cutlefish is quite identical in texture with Siporex. Just s fun fact 
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Hi Kristijan!
23.9. 2017
Let’s see what google says…
Still, the longer story in wikipedia tells the swedish part of it… just click on the abowe!
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Here in Australia most new buildings in fire danger zones are built from Hebel blocks and panels , they also sell the blocks to arty people who carve out sculptures and such like, and are great for making BBQ bases ,ect .
Dave
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A update on the gasifier. I run out of camera memory, l wanted to say there will be a sheat metal caseing surrounding the setup, for air preheat.
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Fast progress as always Kristijan!
Are you planing a second smaller cyclone for dust?
I’ve been batteling with the idea of installing one (or two) inside a similar charcoal catcher. Kind of what Chris did in his small WK.
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Ha, you fancy pickup owners… haveing all the space you desire
Yes that was the original plan, 2 cyclones in a squere box, but l only have about 25x60cm space for all the hot stuff, gasifier+dust collector, so l decided to go with the baffle. I read they do have about 90% efficiancy, and less pressure drop thain a cyclone so hope it works. The semihot filter shuld take out the rest of the dust, to be shaken off periodicly, and what ever gets past shild glue to moisture in the cooler, to be expelled with the ingine compartment cyclones.
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I guess you will be fine but I meant installing them inside the char catcher.
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Well the char catcher is a sort of a cyclone it self. Its not done yet, missing the middle and top plate plus gas outlet.
Puting anything else in wuld interfeere with the cyclone dimamics.
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I never studied the baffle separator like you are building and like Tom C talked about. I thought it was supposed to save room but that looks pretty big to me. You talked about a middle plate. Is that why you call it a baffle? Can you take a picture of a quick drawing sketch of it of how it works?
EDIT.
Don’t bother with the drawing and picture Kristijan, because I looked up Tom C’s post above and studied the system and now I know how it works. Anxiously waiting to see how it works for you - and the way you work , I won’t have to wait too long!
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I am very excited to see Kristijan “trying” this plate cyclone separator. I knew if I share it with him and he saw any merritt in the idea, we would be seeing one sooner than any of the rest of us could build it.
To Don’s questions; go to posting 13 on this thread and there are a couple of videos on it. Also, on the idea of being smaller— what size tubing are you using for cooling Kristijan? My guess is the pipe going from the gasifier to the Thein separator is much bigger than your cooling tubes or tubes feeding the engine. From what I could tell, the distance from the end of the tube taking the gas out of the separator down to the baffle would be about twice the distance of the tubes coming and going from the separator. Then add a couple more inches below the baffle for catching and storing dust char or anything that come out. So if you are using 2 inch tubing that would make the separator about 6 - 7 inches total depth.
As far as the diameter of the Thein separator, no one made much mention of that, As you have done-- trial and error; I can’t wait to hear how this works TomC
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Ok the gasifier part is finished. Now the surrounding gadgets. I wuld like a few sugestions/experiances/opinions from you guys.
The plan is to make a wk style condensing hopper, the wk tubes will be somewhat different, but this doesent play a role. The hopper will be insulated so that the heat will stay where it shuld be, toasting the wood in the hopper. I was thinking to allso add pipes goeing trugh the wood bed, trugh wich hot gas wuld flow. Similar to @gasman plank hopper idea. But l am a bit afraid the small 50l hopper becomeing too hot for a in the trunk build. Allso, l will try to avoid any gas in flowing parts being inside the vehicle.
Second, air preheat. I did reread all the detailed information on air preheat on this site, and while l still strongly belive in air preheat, l am thinking to not use it here.
First of all, l am wery space limited. The whole setup needs to be squeezed in a ex muffer compartment. I am hunting milimeters here
Second, a airtight preheat mantel around the gasifier/baffle wuld be hart to manufacture
And third , l will dry/preheat the fuel a lot. So, based on the information given my Max and l think Dustin somewhere here, this shuld be the same as air preheat in terms of gas quality.
I was thinking to heat the gas goeing out of the wk tubes thugh! So, wet smoke enters the top of the wk tube, condenses,cools, then gets reheated before entering the hopper again. Any ideas?
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KristijanL you seem to be contradicting your self on this . . . .???
Very correct that if you deliver “dry” fuel wood then the system can be much simplified.
Correct the produced gasses can be made to center/or perimeter preheat that very dry in-hopper fuel wood.
But to attempt a condensating fuel moisture removal hopper system . . . in-the-trunk . . . discrete . . . cannot, I am afraid be done.
You need space/length/height to do this.
You need lots of exposed cooling/condensation air flows to do this.
The gengas publication pictured below decks marine gasifier attempted to do this with multiple individual air-in tubes passing down through the hopper inner walls to each and every jet. A “J” tube system. This is the one that got M.E.N.S. copied. It did not work well for hopper condensing cooling at all. Same original Swed/Finn designer for open air mounting simplified greatly.
tree-farmer Steve unruh
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Hmm. I cannot now get your original auto youtube picture to load up.
This is a sedan with a “bustle” trunk, yes?
Very common once that these had luggage racks mounted onto the trunk lid.
So . . . what about a luggage-on the trunk rack hopper/cooler system?
This would give you the space/height and air exposure flows.
S.U.
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Sorry, witch part do you find contraindicatory?
As for condensation, l was thinking wk tubes cooled by a fan (wich wuld allso create a negative pressure in the trunk-safety reasons), but each wk tube haveing a iner narrow tube, trugh wich gasifier air intake wuld be drawn. So cooled on the outside with a fan, cooled on the inside with gasifiers air. This alone shuld provide about max 700l/min of airflow wich is not neglectible!
Well, not quite sure what a bustle trunk is, but l think we are on the same page. But the flex part?
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I said bustle trunk to try and give a visual of the the old traditional way of a rear overhanging cargo space.
Flex part? I have re-read you, and I and cannot see the reference…
Ha! And yes, I forgot the very common now variable speed DC cooling whole engine compartment fans widely available now.
Good thinking there on your part.
The air-in requirement of a 2300cc engine system is so small I do not think you will be able to get nearly enough heat-out transfer. Good deal the reason that the air-in-cooling tubes in the hopper system were an over complication for the results rendered.
Better system complex making return results to outlet gas heat the incoming air stream.
In mho
Steve unruh
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Yes thats the kind of trunk it has.
Sorry, l shuld be more exact. I ment the flexible transition between the hopper and the luggage carryer type cooler you advised. It has to flex with the trunk opening right?
Hmm you think 700l/min at wot shuld be neglected? Well, it does add complexity to the system…
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Kristijan,
I know we´ve been dabating this already, but just another suggestion:
Collect your finned WK-tubes in a cluster inside a larger pipe (a bucket). Pull air outof the top/side of the bucket and out with a strong blower. Cold inlet from down under.
Wether Steve is right or not, about 700l/min gasifier air not being enough cooling, it does stop when you shut down. A great deal of the hopper condensation is made after shut down and a fan running half an hour or so after shutdown would help a lot.
You could collect air to the gasifier from the bucket top as well. Just a bonus.
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Well l wasnt clear enough with my original post. This is sort of my plan, the inside cooled tubes air flow wuld be just a bonus. The real question is is those max 700l/min worth the efford…
The “bucket” wuld be a box weldetd on the hopper. Allso, l planed to make the fan wired with a thermostate. I have one already from the boiler l “bought” Run the fan as long as the hopper is more thain about 60c.
We have allso talked about wk tubes goeing down and under the car. I allso thod about this but l think at cooldown a fan shuld be more efficiant?
And, l am thinking to make the fan axial, so that it wuld allso serve as a startup fan. This is not fixed yet, wuld be nice thugh. 2 birds with one stone.
I now see why Steve sayd its impossible. Ofcorse, cooling the whole trunk is way less efficient thain just the tubes. My apologies.
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