I guess we need actual numbers to know if my method will work. I don’t think talking in terms of up and down and then adding a small amount of hot wet gas. The added gas can make the combined gas DP go down from added heat and up from the added moisture .
Thanks for giving the explanation
TomC
Tom, simply sayd. I am sure your method will work but will not be optimal. You will add water from bypassed gas to your engine grade gas, this does not happen on Maxs way. But the question is is this a problem? My guess is no. But like you sayd, lets wayt and see.
Max, l was thinking about what we talked about before, you sayd my 100c paperfilter gas filtration wuldnt work becouse eaven 90% moist gas wuld clogg the paper over time. What about the way you advise? Reheat the cool/condensed but 100% wet gas. The moisture there shuld allso be in the 90% moisture region, once slightly reheated? Shuld this not damage the paper the same way then?
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Hi, Kristijan!
13.10.2017
It is nothing bad with 100* C gas as such, but what temperature it had as wet, before it is reheated to 100* C !
If hot, relative humid gas from the gasifier is cooled down to 20 – 40* C it will give off a good part of the humidity as condense and will become 100% wet.
Then reheated to 70 – 100* C makes it dry and safe for a nice (commercial) paperfilter. (for a 3 liter motor)
Perhaps a mantel around your cyclone is the first convenient place to get hot at start-up. As far as you blow all gases from the gasifier (after start-up at least) through the cyclone, its mantel will be ready for reheating the cooled gas.
But do not blow start-up gas trough the cooler, it will soon become dirty and loose its efficiency!
Of course the gasifier gas has to be hot filtered before the cooler, if it is not a self-rinsing Imbert type, hardly applicable in you case; then a hot “sootbag” may do the job?
Let me see your proposal!
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My original idea does not cool the gas at first at all! Take raw gas from the cyclone, cool to ~100-120c and pass trugh the paper filter. Then, cool, condense, run trugh the engine compartment cyclones to expel the participated moisture and to the engine.
This shuld allso be the fastest startup way, at gas from the cyclone shuld reach 100c faster thain heating the whole gas reheating mantel can be possible. Thods?
First, l will go the easyest, and allso safest way and work from there. I will pass the gas stright from the cyclone to the coolers. Then, cold and driping wer/foggy, send trugh a open cell foam filter, similar to yours on the Audi, where all the soot shuld combine with the fog in form of bigger sooty droplets. Those will now pass two final high velocity cyclones, wich will extract all the sooty droplets. After that, a slight reheat and stright to the engine.
This way is safest too, becouse this way there is no woodgas danger related things in the inclosed trunk, except the hopper.
If this lets too much soot trugh, l will be forced to go your way, building a reheat mantel and filter, in the trunk. Or, try out my original idea, allso, in the trunk.
Can you explain what you ment with the sootbag?
As for rinsing the cooler, it has become a routine to wash the cooler and the car every Sunday when l had the Checvy, so thats a reasonable interval for me as such.
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Hi, Kristijan!
13.10.2017
The mantel on the cyclone is “instantly” following the internal temperature!.
After the cyclone, use your famous “soot-bag” filter while hot, and then to the cooler under the vehicle bottom and the twin wet cyclones!
Come back from the wet cyclones mantling around the exhaust pipe, but that is a slower way than using the gasifier’s cyclone mantel! Then to the paper filter.
You have presented the soot-bag filter on the Chevy, one of your applicationes in the alu-box.
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Aa that soot bag! I like the name 
Hmm this culd work! I have lots of space around the exhaus manifold.
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Question Kristijan, when passing the cold wet/driping, foggy gas through a open cell foam filter, does the filter become a wet scubber of sorts and some of the tars, soots remain there dripping into some kind of Resvior in the bottom of the filter, how do you keep it from clogging? Or do you have to do frequent wash outs to keep it clean to pass the wood gas?
I am leaning more and more to the hot filter way for simplicity and space savings. Go to Ben Peterson YouTube Ford Mustang running on charcoal/hydrogen gas. Watch the video and you will see a hot filter he is using. He only shows it for a second, I stopped the video to get a good look at it. This is the hot filter that I am building.
You should have room to put it in the trunk area of your vehicle. It is after the cyclone filter. Take a look at it.
Bob
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Yes, correct! It becomes a scrubber! But, the participated dirthy water sooner or later travels with the gas stream to the cyclones.
If you remember, l had the wery same kind of hot filter you talk about on my chevy for a while. I decided to go back to cold filtration for a number of reasons.
-l culd not find suitibly tight woven glassfibre fabric, the welding blanket did loosen up some fibres, leting soot trugh after a few 1000km.
-every cold filter catches some potentialy produced tar. Hot filter extracts NONE.
-the fabric is not cheap (here)
-in case a fibre accidently gets sucked in the engine, it can do serious damage as it bakes/fuses to piston/piston rings. Its silica nevertheless…
I dont know what kind of fabric you have, but if you look at DJs Volvo or BenPs build, the fabric seems realy tight.
If you plan to make a stationary charcoal gasifier/filter l wuld advise a much simpler, and cheaper towel sack filter. It works smazeing with dry chargas.
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This is a pic of the towel filter l talked about. It requires minimal cooling after the gasifier, slightly moist gas doe no harm to it, aids to efficiancy actualy.
It works with woodgas too, but only if the gas isnt too wet. Then the water starts rinsing out the soot trugh the towel.
I know GarryG adopted this kind of a filter on his recent project, hadnt reported the resaults?
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Thanks Kristijan, that is good to know about the welding blanket loosing up on the fibres and not filtering at all. I will have to go to the bag material that Ben is using for this kind of filter. This site is great, You just saved me a lot of work from using the wrong material. I am sure I can get the right material.
Bob
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As did @Saman, l too just got my first flare on the new gasifier today!
I had litle engine grade charcoal, and it was quite moist, but l did manage to get a reasonably good flare quite fast.
Allso, the baffle seems to work well! More of the report tomorow!
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Can’t wait to see your MB cruising down the road 
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Careful there you’ll lose that mustache!
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Oh! It’s ok. Mustaches grow back. Eyebrows too. (experiences)
S.U.
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Very exciting to see your flare. I look forward to seeing how this all comes together.
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Ha, l only trim my moustaches with woodgas puffs, so without DOW for so long they grew wery long
Opened up the gasifier, all looks well.
The Thein baffle is a big sucsess! I found about 2 cups of a mix of charcoal and ash, much like JO reports on his rabbit. No sparks seen while flareing, indicateing the baffle takes them all out.
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Quick question guys! A friend offered me a tonne of old coal for free. Culd this be mixed with wood in the gasifier? Otherwise l will pass the deal…
Hard or soft coal? ???
No idea. Usualy they had hard one here.