I was out testing the new S10 today.
But I have a loud noise in the car, sounds like road noise from the tires, the tires have dry cracks, and the car has been sitting for many years,
I felt the brake discs, the left rear was a little warm,
I think it’s strange that the tires can make so much noise, could it be a bearing or something else?
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Unbalanced tires can do that. bad shocks can contribute as well. check and make sure that it still has sway bar links, they sometimes break or the pads go bad. and the urathane bushings for the sway bars go bad as well.
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Hi Jan, old hard tires can make a real disturbing noise (think military vehicle), but my guess is a wheel bearing.
Does it change when steering right/left? Does it change when accelerating/slowing down?
I remeber my s10 had a whining noise from gearbox, only on second gear i think.
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I’ll check it out, I don’t think it sounds like that, but it sounds very bad and a lot, but I don’t feel any play.
Check out rop 24 on toveks, they are fairly new saws though.
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You were right Göran, it’s probably a bad rear wheel bearing, fixed the brake and went for a ride sounded the same, turned a little right and left, left turn it becomes quiet.
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No no, fixed a new bearing in the left rear, had to make new brake lines over the rear axle, went out and tried it. sounds just as bad now, turns left it goes quiet, starts to sound bad at 50-60 kmh, there was poor oil in the rear axle,
doesn’t sound bad when I spin the wheel at home on the farm, should I change the next side too?
Or could it be from the front?
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My guess would be front.
When you spin the wheel, hold your hand tight on something close to bearing (metallic contact, spindle for example) really get into a “relaxed mode” use combination of your senses, and you will be able to “feel through your ears/hear with your hand” (yes…best way i can explain it) even me with my hearing loss can sense pretty silent bearings this way.
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My guess would be front left by your explanation.
I usually jack the car up, turn the steering to the left if it is on the left hand side and have someone spin the wheel as fast as they can (or if it is on the driven wheels, front or back, jack both sides up and drive on the highest gear) and hold a piece of electric plastic conduit pipe (VP-rör) against the bearing and other side against my ear.
I will try Göran’s way next time.
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jack it up. If it wiggles in the clock positions of 6 and 12, it is the wheel bearing. in 3 and 9 it is typically the ball joints, bushings or other suspension pieces. Most of the time, you can also feel the bearing get stuck and rub if you spin the wheel slowly.
If it makes a noise while braking it is a bearing, if it stops with the brakes on, then it is the brakes.
I assume this doesn’t have a cv joint but if it does, you drive backwards in a circle, and you will hear a clicking noises.
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Many thanks for the tips, I’ll try this next time I get home, I got a repair bearing the first time I ordered for the rear axle, you swap the stuffing box and bearing, so the bearing will sit at the far end, have any of you used one like that?
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Do you mean a hub and bearing assembly? They are usually easy if you can get the bolts off.
Make sure that is what your vehicle uses. The first video I watched they replaced the bearing, races and seals… The second, they replaced the whole hub assembly.
The rear looked like a pain in the butt.
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This is what the bearings sound like, no vibration or clicking.
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The bearing looks like this: the stuffing box should sit where the bearing normally sits, and the bearing sits where the stuffing box sits, there is a seal on the bearing facing the wheel, it is done this way to get a different wear surface for the bearing rollers.
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Jan,
I believe you found the problem. 
(that noisy one in the video)
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New the new s10 seems to work, both gearbox and bearings.
Now to the next problem, rust protection, what is the best to spray under and in beams, o doors?
Was thinking about linseed oil, but have become hesitant about this, due to some tests I have seen, is fluid film the best to have?
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Fluid film works well, there is some new lanolin based oil for under vehicles as well.
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I saw this now when I looked at the other s10, what do I do about this, do I have to replace the entire drawbar? (is that the right word?)
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Hi Jan, look in the papers to see if it is registered with ball hitch. This is often the case when rust in drawbar or in frame close to it, a cheap way to fix is to cut the ball of, or make it impossible to use for a trailer by welding a big nut on top of the ball, then register it as a vehicle without trailer pullin possibilities.
A cheap way to fix, but no solving of the problem.
This is often seen on foldable, or removable ball hitch, when they rust stuck they dont pass inspection, and it’s cheaper to make them a “bicycle hanger hitch” and register the vehicle without pulling possibilities.
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Ok, do you know if I need a registration inspection if I put a new one on or fix this?
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Hi Jan, if you want to “register it back” with ball hitch you need to repair the problem, rust?, you could absolutely weld back a piece of square tubing with a ball hitch, if you make it that way the inspector can’t see you have done something… grind, paint, it must look original, or like you just has sanded and painted the drawbar.
But observe! If you are going to “register it back” probably the type sign on the drawbar is needed, a small riveted metal sign, or a self adhesive decal, stating type, load, maker.
Look in old inspection papers if they still are in glove-compartment, to find the reason why ball is cut off, rust? Rust in frame? Or in drawbar?
You may probably find a s10 drawbar cheap on the junkyard, with type plate on it.
And yes, you need registration inspection, if you put back a ball hitch, that is not stated in the registration papers (I’ve tried, it renders a “2:a” your welcome back for a registration inspection, takes half the time, costs twice the money 
)
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