S10 problem
I couldn’t resist buying the boy’s s10a, it goes a little forward and good backward.
Have any of you ever had no slipping oil in an automatic transmission?
I’m wondering if there’s something else wrong. Other than worn discs, I think the transmission worked right away when he put it in. and thought I’d try this.
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describe a little forward and good backward. Is it not shifting and revving really high rpms without engaging or just barely moving? Did you try to put it in second gear and try to move? The solenoids could be toast or maybe the fire, crisped the wires going to it? It is really a question for not me. I don’t claim to be a mechanic. 
It could be slipping. I have used the oil, it works for a short period of time. Sometimes flushing the transmission fluid works. You do like 1/3 of it. What does the fluid actually look like?
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My son changed the gearbox on it and it only moves forward a little slowly at high revs.
He says it doesn’t move forward at all with normal oil, he thinks there are 10 liters (2.6 gallons) in it now that it moves a little slowly.
I’m wondering if he forgot a connector or hose, which makes the pressure in the gearbox too low.
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Jan it sounds like your GM automatic transmission is in Limp-Home mode.
The cable shifter set up to mechanically allow for only a valved Reverse and, only a 2nd range forwards.
You need to scan it for transmission codes.
And to see if through the outside of the transmission electronic controller; AND the vehicle wiring harness the transmission can communicate.
Fluid will not fix a vehicle controller, wiring harness or plug ends problem.
Steve Unruh
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Thanks Steve.
The boy hasn’t got the shifter right, and it could be something more too.
I’ll see if my reader can handle this s10a.
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One of the key things from a distance you have stated is: (goes) " . . .good backwards".
That says you are getting engine power transfer through the internal torque converter, and the internal torque converter clutch. That the pressure pump is able to build up at least a minimal internal pressure.
With a properly adjusted command shifting cable IF the computer cannot control the internal solenoid valving the system is designed to give you at least just reverse and 2nd range forwards. This is a base emergency minimal operation mode.
A good bi-directional scanner will be able to tell you many things such as a mis-adjusted control cable.
JanA. There are at least a hundred different things that could be the problem.
And most likely with now with all old; and now a mixed parts vehicle it will be more than one problem you are fighting.
Just a hardened cracked o-ring seal on the input shaft can bypass bleed off enough pump pressure to give you fits.
Automatic transmissions; and especially electronically controlled automatic transmissions are far, far away from a manual gearbox, See-Do; or See-Not-Do level of technology.
I much rather sort out EFI systems problems. Much easier.
Steve Unruh
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Steve, do you have any recommendations for a gauge for the s10 2001?
I can’t find one that takes the gearbox and is relatively cheap.
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Gauge? You mean scanner, correct?
What I use may not be available to you in Sweden.
What you do get make sure it has bi-directional control capabilities. This allows you to with the scanner activate control solenoids.
You able to control is your circuit and connectors testing.
S.U.
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It doesn’t look so good, I think, a lot of dirt at the bottom of the trough. and the boy changed the oil when he put this gearbox in.
Wonder if it’s even worth testing it again.
Edit: Has anyone of you fixed an automatic transmission, who can help me with which kit I need?
I have looked at a kit called PACargo DK 7700FS, in rock auto, is that all I need for both front and reverse?
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does the oil smell burnt? If it was sitting, and had settled that could be more normal.
The kit came back for 1997 and newer for me.
If I was going to take it apart, I would also get a new/rebuilt torque converter .
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I don’t think it smells burnt, but it hasn’t been driven that much, the boy never got it to work well.
It works backwards but only a little forward, but he hadn’t put a switch in the gearbox, and the gear lever isn’t in the right place, doesn’t have a D or 1 or 2.
The question is whether I should put in the right amount of oil and adjust the gear lever, and test the gearbox.
He has another gearbox that might work, I might try this one, but a lot of work so it feels uncertain.
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O.K. Some easy decisions for you JanA.
What you have is already installed, yes.
Read up and learn how to get the control cable adjusted properly. You will need to know this whatever transmission is installed.
What ever switch you are talking about; get that installed, adjusted and verified working. SCANNER!
Clean the pan well getting all of the fine metals fuzz wiped and washed out.
Yes do refill this installed transmission. But only with new fresh transmission oil. About 8 liters to start with.
Run it. Work it to get the transmission fluid warmed up and expanded. Only then can you check accurately the fluid level.
Then report what works; what does not work, results.
You then decide to replace out the transmission you can save out this mostly still new fluid filtering it through paper painters or coffee filters for reuse.
S.U.
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I tested with a magnet, and nothing stuck.
Yes, I was going to do as you said.
I tested with my scanner, before I drained the gearbox, the top error codes I got before I started the car, the bottom ones I got after I had started the car
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I would start here:
TLDR: start by checking the wiring harness for the TCM for continuity, frayed wires.
From google AI with search terms “p0935 error code s10”
The P0935 error code on an S10 indicates a hydraulic pressure sensor circuit high issue. This code specifically points to the transmission control module (TCM) receiving an implausible or high signal from the accumulator pressure sensor.
Here’s a more detailed explanation:
What the P0935 code means:
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This code means the Transmission Control Module (TCM) is receiving a signal from the hydraulic pressure sensor that indicates an unusually high pressure in the transmission hydraulic system.
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This sensor monitors the pressure within the accumulator, which stores hydraulic fluid for clutch engagement and disengagement, as well as shifting gears.
If the sensor sends a signal that the TCM deems unrealistic or high, the P0935 code is set.
Possible causes of the P0935 code:
A malfunctioning hydraulic power unit assembly can cause incorrect pressure readings. *
Transmission Control Module (TCM) Failure:
.
The TCM itself could be faulty, leading to misinterpretations of the sensor data. *
Wiring Issue:
.
Damaged or faulty wiring in the circuit between the sensor and the TCM can cause signal interference. *
Hydraulic Pressure Sensor Failure:
.
The sensor itself might be sending incorrect data.
Troubleshooting steps:
- Diagnostic Scan: Use a diagnostic scanner to confirm the P0935 code and check for any other related codes.
- Visual Inspection: Inspect the wiring and connectors for any damage or corrosion.
- Component Testing: If the wiring appears fine, consider testing the accumulator pressure sensor and the TCM.
- Professional Assistance: If you’re not comfortable with these steps, consult a qualified mechanic.
Symptoms of the P0935 code:
- Illuminated Check Engine Light: The check engine light will be on, indicating a fault code.
- Shifting Problems: You might experience rough or delayed shifting.
- Limp Mode: In some cases, the vehicle might enter limp mode, where it restricts power and transmission functionality.
Note: It’s important to consult a qualified mechanic for diagnosis and repair, as some issues can be complex and require specialized tools.
they then link this video which is pretty generic.
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Update: I have got the gears working, pulls well on 123D and r, but doesn’t seem to shift up on D.
These are the error codes, do you have any ideas, or should I change the oil a couple of times and filter, and think it will be better, I don’t have a muffler or axle for 4x4.
Thanks for all the help you give me.
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u2be6-- i couldn’t find anything. but U-codes generally point to network or communication issues within the vehicle’s systems.
u2688 – The error code U2668 in GM vehicles typically indicates a problem with the
“Communication with Electronic Power Steering (EPS) Module”
P0A6E Drive Motor “B” Phase W Current High (this is for a hybrid.) GM didn’t make hybrids until '97. Maybe it thinks it is a hybrid?
B0310 indicates a problem with the electric windshield circuit. Specifically, it signifies that the circuit has a low voltage condition.
The GM P0154 error code indicates that the oxygen sensor circuit in bank 2, sensor 1 is not showing any activity. This means the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) isn’t receiving a signal from that specific oxygen sensor, suggesting a potential failure or problem with the sensor or its wiring. Short-distance driving is possible, but it’s recommended to have the issue resolved promptly
The GM P0134 error code indicates a problem with the upstream oxygen sensor circuit on Bank 1, Sensor 1, meaning the powertrain control module (PCM) isn’t receiving a fluctuating voltage signal from the sensor. This suggests a possible issue with the sensor itself, its wiring, or the PCM
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Yes, P0A6E it’s strange, I wonder why they give this.
I don’t have the exhaust pipes on, it goes straight out of the cylinders, I wonder if that’s the problem, that it doesn’t shift up?
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without the o2 sensors it goes into limp mode.
from google ai
Yes, limp mode in a 1995 S10 will significantly affect shifting. When the transmission control module (TCM) enters limp mode, the vehicle will often be stuck in one or a few gears, and the shifting process will be severely limited. This is a protective measure to prevent further damage to the transmission.
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I thought I would show the new S10, it’s a 2002 4.3 4x4, possibly a little less rusty than the 95, but looks much better, especially in the cabin.
Haven’t got the gearbox sorted yet, and am thinking about taking parts from this one to the 95, or fixing this one.
This one has a small back seat, which I miss, but it’s so new that I need to pay tax and have it inspected every year.
The 95 is tax exempt, and inspected every other year
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You have 7 years to get it fixed up before you can drive it. You might get a car port for it.
I think you can get the 95 running and parts are pretty cheap and still easily available for it. On the bright side the 95 only needs 20 more years before no inspections.
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