Tom it could just be the raised levels of carbon monoxide that’s causing the sludge. Maybe a weird chemical reaction that natural gas derived synthetics experience and conventional oil doesn’t.
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Outside my pay grade. I’m just a parts swapper.
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I tried putting a filter above the hay, it just clogged up with in a couple hundred miles. Then the gases because of the high vaccum by-pass around the filter on top of the hayfilter.
The best that I have found is to wash the hay down with lots of water, like from a 5 gallon bucket all at once. Mike Gibb showed me that trick. It is better then a water hose running on to the hay. I also use the clothes laundry bags, they work great. Wash the filter once a week if driving every day and you are good to go with the hay filter. Flush the cooling rails too, and condensation tank. It only takes me 15 minutes if I take my time. I can flush my cooling rails with out removing them with the hose and a short nozzle sprayer.
Bob
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I think if you used a stand pipe sort of method it would prevent bypassing.
Could stuff the wool sack with either pine straw or just more hay, it’s more to hold the shape of the sack than to filter anything.
The hay does a lot to grab the big stuff and get more moisture out of the gas, but JO has shown a wool bag of not even that large a size works great for a raw wood system. Mostly I think because Wool still performs well when wet, ask any 19th century sailor!
Perforate the stand pipe so it doesn’t just suck gas from the top or very end, maybe terminate the pipe towards the middle section of the bag filter.
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I like that idea Cody. The gases can’t by-pass the wool. Mine was laying on top and wedge on the out side. You also have a lot more surface filtering area. Hum. I have 2 exit openings at the top of my filter barrel to the side wall.
Bob
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You could maybe use a Y pipe to branch the two together, and use a big 3" stand pipe.
Or weld in a false lid with the standpipe to the inside of the lid.
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Just what I was thinking, thank you. This would work on any hay filter truck.
Bob
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That’s what I was thinking as well
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If you watch this movie about 3 minutes in, you will see how I have the foam rubber, it is probably the fastest way to make the gas a little better, you have to have something on top of the mattress, otherwise it is sucked up against the outlet pipe, the mattress can be washed in a bucket water.
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Jan do you still use the lica clay balls?
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Yes, I think it works better than with hay for me, seems to condense out more water.
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How much soot are you collecting in that cyclone, Jan? I woke up in the middle of the night thinking about Marcus’s carb. There has to be a way to stop some of that soot from getting through the system. Also I’m still thinking the gas should be fed under the carb. A pair of these spacers stacked with the sides drilled out to receive the piping seems like a simple solution.
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/15444/10002/-1?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzPmLj6PI9wIV78LCBB3UmAISEAQYAyABEgKGrvD_BwE
These would probably be better but the insides with the port would have to be cut out.
If you wanted to try that out Marcus, I’d buy a set and have them shipped to you.
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Mobil synthetic aviation oil came on with a big advertising program. After several IO 550 engine failures they found that the synthetic oil does not hold the aviation fuel lead in suspension and so it would build up around the rings until they got stuck.
Lawsuits followed, Mobil switched to semi synthetic and life goes on.
I change my oil at about 2500 miles because it gets really black using Mobil 10/30.
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Screen that charcoal fines out and you would have some nice garden bio char. The bigger charcoal would run a small charcoal gasifer.
Bob
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This is just fine soot or whatever it’s called, only very few thumbnail large pieces,
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Then it is all bio char for the garden.
Bob
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Is this good for the soil, vegetables and potatoes?
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Add it to your compost before putting in the garden, but yes charcoal dust is good for soil.
It absorbs nutrients and helps to let the soil retain nutrients.
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Yes. Yes. Great use feedback MichealG.
Here is a great video just been released actually semi-sponsored by Mobile One:
The point of this is modern oils are very specifically designed for a specific range of use conditions.
Much, much more than just about viscosity.
There are purpose made oils for 100% propane fueled engines. Sure other will kinnda-sorta’ work. But use the specific purpose made oil to get the longest life and least wears.
Same with for-diesel made oils. Fellows just quit using these in your once gasoline, now woodgasses engines.
What will be the best oil in woodgas converted engines?? Oh, probably standard mineral grade oils in one grade thinner than you’d normally use. Changed out frequently.
Why to use the less expensive “standard” oils. You will be doing the changes more frequently.
I have also ran into two long ran four-stroke air cooled generators that suffered this on-woodgas oil thickening problem. It showed up in sticking cranking compression release problems. Low oil level sensor problems.
Woodgas you are just going to have to go back to the old VW aircooled type oil changes. Adjusted to the climate and use those vehicle were put too. Down to as low as 500 miles if ran in HOT deserts and dusty conditions.
No oil company is going to craft-design a special oil formulation just for woodgas fueled engines.
And this oil thickening made-black phenomena also highlights even more just how hard it will be to use late model double overhead camshaft engines. Rewatch that video. See the engines Mobile One was focusing on. Moderen single and double overhead camshaft engines.
NOT shown there was the severe problems with timing chain links wear. That every single chain in those engines will have an oil pressure activated tensioner system.
That every engine using camshaft timing twisting system will have oil flow actuators. And every one of these have internal screens in their oil feed pathways.
No I do not use Mobile One any more since ~1995. Why not? Other synthetics on the market for less $'s. I have used Castrol a lot.
Now in our most irritating sensitive DOHC all cams twisters Ford Edge I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum full synthetic. The other vehicles get Wal-Mart synthetic. Each in the manufactures recommended weights grades. (Ha! Plus a wee bit of magic additive - just to make me feel I am doing more)
Another factor to just use cheaper standard mineral based oils in woodgased engines . . . IF you intend to use the used oil for heating; and/or diesel drop in fuels you want the easier burning standard oils versus burning resistant made-made synthetics. Reports they will as a fuel give residue problems.
Regards
Steve unruh
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