I don’t know what the signal is. I just remember reading about the sensor. 
It probably is a 5v or 3.3v signal somewhere, but it might be converted to canbus on the device as well since all it does is spit out information. The computer I believe actually ignores it for things like starting.
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I think most sensors are now 5 volt. Early on some were still 12 volt I think on very early OBDI but Im not 100% that’s true. If anyone knows better edumicate me.
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Actually it is really good for a pure EV, but the release schedule doesn’t have it in Michigan until September. NH gets it a bit earlier.
I think Matt would actually prefer a truck. Just a sneaky suspicion. 
But he might make a 4x4 mini-truck using the open source car design.
https://www.osvehicle.com/
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Im hoping GM does something with the Colorado and Canyon. Then we could take it further using a wood gas hybrid system to extend range. This would give you a lot of freedom on how you press that go pedal!!!
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This has more information then I can supply, but they seem to only cover the acdelco #12570260 which didn’t seem to cover any newer vehicles, but it has a lot more information then I can provide.
http://www.megamanual.com/flexfuel.htm
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hellow ray I saw your post on lithium batteries for your home do you like them.
Hello Paul,
The Lithium Batteries are the ones that came with the Nissan Leaf over six years ago. According to the car’s instrumentation, they have lost about 30% of their capacity, which sort of agrees with the loss of driving range. Here is a link describing the battery: http://hybridautocenter.com/HAC4/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=72&Itemid=631
We bought this car from my neighbor who bought a Tesla Model S. His car has almost 100K miles and shows very little battery degradation.
He uses it to deliver produce to grocery stores, sort of like a farm truck. In the photo, he is hauling about 1700 pounds of charcoal fines to use as Ag Char.
To answer your question, I do not use the Leaf batteries for my home. I do charge them when the sun is shining on my ground mounted grid-tied solar array. If I am very careful with my electrical power consumption, I can drive the car and power my home with solar power and pay only a basic connection fee to the local electric coop. If I generate excess power, the coop only pays me wholesale electric rates (5.95 cents/kWh), and at the end of the year they send me a check (and a W-2 form so I can pay tax on the “income”). I really like Lithium batteries, in general.
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I reckon if you have to pay taxes on your electric sales, then you could also write off any costs associated with that “business”
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Now there is a way to show a loss itemize the cost of the solar array compared to what the electric company actually pays you for power. The asset value will far out way the return on investment should help alot with taxes…
Unless there is a subsidy on solar in place you should try to size things so you do no more then break even. It sounds like this is what Ray is doing. If nissan leafs were available here at that price I would go for one.
I was teasing saying the little bit extra he sells will be worth alot less the the total array so it would show a great loss on paper if you exnore the 100 % of his used power
When an HV battery officially “dies” (sets trouble code P0A80 or P3006)
These guys sell a module you put in your trunk to extend the range of 2011-14 leafs, but it is 6500. They also rebuild packs.
http://hybridindustries.webs.com/
and actually now that I have looked at it, it doesn’t look like it is hard to rebuild the battery pack on them since they only sell modules.
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Yes, my solar array is not big enough for the Summer heat here in South Texas. I attempt to break even during the rest of the year. Every billing cycle (once a month), they lock any extra power I have generated into a “bank”. Power banked in Nov. cannot be used in July to run the a/c. In 2016 my total bank for all 12 months is about 862 kWh, so at 5.95 cents/kWh I will get a check for $51 (taxable as income). The base rate each month is a minimum of $22.50, which is higher than other areas of the country. The peak power from my solar array is only 2700 watts, usually happening around solar noon. The Leaf battery charging on 120 vac draws 1474 watts. One hour at 1474 watts will let me drive approximately 5 miles. We have no problem mapping out our route to make sure we get home, but if a low water crossing is closed, or there is some other traffic detour, then we could be “up the creek without a paddle”. That is why I was considering purchasing a 3100 watt inverter generator to strap down in the trunk area. I already have a tow hook on the front of the car, so it could be charged with some gentle towing. (No worse than using regenerative braking on a long decline.) Perhaps this Summer when all the generators purchased for this year’s ice storms up North are up for grabs on eBay…
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thanks for the clarification ray I’m in the middle of changing systems now and going to lifepo4 I was hoping for some insider advise .
Ray that towing trick works well but the police might remind you that you are only allowed something like 1 mile on a chain or rope or atleast that is how It is here.
When I was in college in 95 I was part of a solar car club. I had to go rescue our electronic car about 30 miles from school and the college is right dead in the middle of the state capital. Not really where you want to be on a rope. And yes all I had at the time was a rope. Well twice the rope got cut on the underside of the car. The second time we where almost back to the city so I told my friend in the chase car to just go around me and I would follow him the rest of the way. You should have seen the look of confusing on my professors face when I followed the “dead” electric car onto campus as it rolled in under its own power. 
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Hi Dan that law on one mile towing i have never been told or heard of, the farthest i have been towed was about 60 miles including the freeway when the trottle stuck on the early 70s boniville that was being towed with a one year old ford courier pickup. I blew the horn or taped the blakes till we my dad and i un stuck the throttle lever and finished the tow home.luckily the brakes were good and traffic was low on the freeway.
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Sirs,
I am not an expert in wood gas or vehicle electronic engine control systems. I do own a 1999 Chevy Silverado V8 pickup that I would like to try to wood gas. I spoke a length with Steve Unruh about the project a few weeks ago. As you guys know, Steve knows a lot of stuff about a lot of stuff and once worked as a technician doing emissions testing (and related "stuff) on vehicles. What I took away from the conversation:
OBD II is an interface mandated by the government for use by the various auto companies so that certain engine performance information may be extracted using a standard interface plug in.
How the OBD II system is actually configured for engine control varies widely between manufacturers, actual vehicle models, and frequently within model years.
This variation means that a single “plug in” module will likely never be able to work for more than a few vehicles. (BUMMER)
The confounding thing with various OBT II systems is what the computer is programmed to do with certain engine sensor inputs. We generally do not have access to this specific information.
Toyota and GM OBD II systems tend to fully advance the spark timing and then back off the timing based on input from the knock sensor. (Hummmm, werry, werry intewesting!)
So, the mental model I have been considering involves using a GM or Toyota platform with only limited mods to the engine control system, some method of turning off the gasoline to the engine without the engine control system noticing (inline solenoid operated from the drivers seat and maybe something to spoof the engine fuel pressure sensor), and using an electronic carburetor mixture control system modeled after the one shown in Ben Petersons’s book “The Electronic Carburetor Workbook”.
Link http://www.woodgasifierplans.com/order-wood-gas-books/
The BenP air/fuel system use an oxygen sensor feedback to a control box that servo controls the air/fuel mixture. The system compensates for differences in burnable fuel content in the wood gas by adjusting the admixed air allowed into the engine.
Any body see a problem that would absolutely kill this idea?
Thanks, Tim H
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Nice post Tim. I don’t see why that would not be worth a try. We are doing basically the same thing manually now with the oxygen sensor and air/fuel gauge reading giving us an idea how to manually set the air butterfly valve. (although I I use the engine sound and feel just as much) Max Gasman’s diaphragm automixer does the same mechanically and automatically.
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Yes. Yes.
Good summation. Essentially what I did try top say TimH.
Some added information.
What in-Thailand KoenVL is saying about his India Tata (never to be into the “mandated” countries) should be paid attention to. His OBD means correctly digitally processed sensor inputs for spark and timing control. He is very astute saying all need to “live” driving monitor inputs/outputs. You can record these out the data plug and frame-by-capture- frame review later.
ALL mid-90’s later digital automotive allows for “flash” reprogramming of the computer internal maps. Needs a plug-in special interface. First erase. Then overwrite.
ALL of these allow for what is called bi-directional control.
Older digital and early analog systems only controlled OUT. Like an old TV set.
Bi-directional means the system from the outside will accept while operating control inputs. Brother-in-law channel changing teasing my sister with their first wireless TV remote outside the window!
Bi-directional controlling done with needs-to-be-plugged-in “scanners” up through ~2003.
By ALL US/Canadian 2010 production vehicle scanning and remote control inputs can be done by radio/GPS/satellite link interfaces. OBDIII earlier proposed for 2005 mandate then became alive without the scary name. This sold/evolved into useage as convenience (remote starting, etc) and safety ( remote alarming and disabling, etc) features while you’all were not looking. They say . . . you all asked for these.
J-I-C Steve Unruh
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