Again, storms and insulated curtains were once the norm in northern climes. They have all but disappeared. I expect them to make a comeback.
3 Likes
Agreed. The issue with conventional storms is the convection space between the panes. Any more than about 3/8" and as I understand the convection negates much of the insulation effect.
1 Like
The deal with storm windows is they seal against the casing of the window and close the gaps that the regular window needs to be able to slide up and down.
I was always told it is more about stopping the wind rattling around the old windows more then the extra insulation from the glass.
As to the cost of heat⌠my cost is pretty constant there just the time to go cut the wood.
2 Likes
It depends on the manufacturer. Some of the earlier ones were more susceptible to having the seal between the glass broken, then start to leak. Sometimes you can get replacement glass so you donât have to replace the windows.
You still get some value, it isnât as good as sealed double pane windows, but better then nothing. Even the plastic stuff you put on with a hair drier around your window helps a lot.
Air doesnât conduct heat very well, and it slows down any leaks in the windows.
1 Like
Yes, the storms are good for significant air leaks. All those old windows were thrown out 40 years ago in this region, minus 30 blowing in around your windows focuses your attention. 
2 Likes
My uncle just moved into the more efficient house with my grandfather next door and simply used the farm house during the day a little. So he never updated it if it was cold you just didnât use that house. That is what happens when families shrink and move away.
That is why you get creative with your landscaping too. Those Evergreens around the house knock down the wind, and help quite a bit.
2 Likes
I think its -10c here today.
I have newer windows and added new insulation.
I do not think I save as much as I spent, but I am more comfortable in my 50 year old home.
If I could build a home I might look into something built into a hill with a southern exposure and so well thought out landscaping.
I would love to have an outbuilding that had room for storing wood, a well designed boiler system and solar collector.
I would also love to be wealthy enough to have this ha ha!!!
6 Likes
Batteries are becoming cost effective.
1 Like
My house turns 147 this year, I considered new insulation and better windows, but the cost vs benefit meant I had to live to 147 myself to see a real paybackđ§! The house loses heat so fast when itâs cold and windy you can almost hear the thermostat on the wall making a racket with the needle swinging back and forth lol! The old oil burner worked overtime down in the cellar those nights, the heat exchanger never got much time to cool down.
I opted for cheap heating fuel instead and it worked out better than anticipated. Pellets saved me huge back then, but a pleasant surprise was having the steady non stop heat radiating off the cast iron pretty much eliminated the draft that was persistent everytime the oil burner shut down. Itâll fight a losing battle at -25 with wind and Iâll have to feed in a little oil to help it out, but all things considered for about 3500.00 the house became both cheaper to heat, and more comfyđ.
One thing I can confirm, the house is just fine at -30 on a still evening, itâs the wind thatâs a killer. The bathroom is on the west side of the house with the wind coming off a field. On a cold night with high winds, after a shower, there is a spot on the west wall that sometimes will have a 2" diameter circle of frost attached to the drywallâŚ
1 Like
Strip off the siding, clad the outside with urethane foam board, then housewrap. That addresses air infiltration and thermal bridging through the studding. Will make a huge difference.
3 Likes
Agree⌠itâs what I would recommend to a client who didnât want to destroy the interior trims and finishes. Sometimes we would drill every stud cavity and cellulose fill as well if itâs a hollow framed building. Honestly old buildings are a nightmare to insulate. Reducing air infiltration and upgrading roof insulation is where we would start.
3 Likes
Been there, done that, and in total agreement. Apart from bulldozing, (which might often be better), try to avoid messing with the interior. Besides, thereâs really no good way to seal the interior of an old house, apart from complete gutting.
You guys have summed up the issues with an old house well. Was the early blow in insulation different then the stuff they use today? I ask because a friend I worked with had a house that was done 20 years or more ago he claimed it was well insulated but when the renter complained we took an IR camera to the house and checked from the outside about 2 feet at the bottom of every wall and top of every window or door was cold above that the walls where red as though the house had never been insulated. The only thing we could guess is the insulation had compressed and was all at the bottom.
This house has wooden x braces in the walls one x in each outside wall in each room so the spray in stuff would be tricky at best.
Whatever I do I want to keep the classic look of the house and barns. I think this old new England L house and two barns is just neat.
2 Likes
I think about the best insulation, ecologically, for fire suppression, and ant suppression, and function as insulation is blown cellulose. If cellulose is blown correctly it shouldnât settle, and fills all voids, which batt insulation never does.
Thermal bridging through studs is more significant than most appreciate, as you will know from thermal imaging. Interior or exterior I like to cross studs with 2x2âs, thus making effective R 20 cavities, but eliminating the thermal bridging gives much better performance. As a byproduct it also helps to level studs, and allows drywall to be laid vertically eliminating butt joints, and to make for regular attachment points in 24" and irregular framed walls.
1 Like
They are cost effective in that capacity. Essentially they are replacing âpeakerâ plants with batteries Which means you donât need to fire up a peaker plant for 4 hours running idle, in case demand spikes unexpectedly high. They are supposed to have like 1 battery array for every 9 peaker plants in cali by like 2022. It -should- end up saving them a lot of money. It is kind of sold to the folks for solar and wind, and it could eventually help for that, but peaker plant generation is the most expensive power capacity to buy.
yes, but it might be marginally different. It all can settle and deteriorate especially if it gets wet. I had my house done and they managed not to put any plugs in the siding. they also have a spray in urethane, that wonât settle.
A big leak for me was around the windows. Even the windows the previous owner replaced had air coming in around them. The other big leak was around the sill. Then there was a small crack in the mortar in one spot that was also letting in air.
3 Likes
I think that urethane is pretty good stuff for an old house, probably have to put it in from the inside though. I could see that stuff making a huge difference in my old house. All leaks sealed up, great R value, I think itâs a vapour barrier too, should be quieter inside, probably stiffen up the old timber frame too!
3 Likes
No doubt it will do all that, but donât contemplate running any new wiring after. And itâs a petrochemical product, fairly resource intensive.
I think they have nonexpanding stuff that you insert like the cellulose. They also have like a mineral wool you can blow in i think still.
The thing to remember is that yes insulation has embedded costs but it will displace many times that in energy not used. Oil would be a direct savings. It may be wood or pellets but it is still energy. Wood you donât have to cut stack move or buy is energy available for something else⌠like new storms. Foam is pricey though sprayed in with no work was $1.20 a board ft (12Ă12Ă1) have never done a quote for filling a wall.
1 Like