Thanks, I’ll test and remove the sensor before it breaks.
2 Likes
Hi, Jan!
21.4.2020
Things have derailed a bit, it seems. Ihave not had a concrete metallic cone on my mind!
When I was mentioning “cone”, I had the 60 degree cut cone process volume calculation on my mind…
The starting point for the process cone is the diameter of the restriction. The rest is calculated with an easy formula, which I will return to.
Displacement of the motor?
Would 3500 RPM be about right for max open road woodgas speed on the highest gear? With WOT? (wide open throttle on woodgas)
Max
1 Like
Hi Max.
The engine is at 4.3 liters, and the highest revs I expect is about 3000rpm. I sent you an email.
Jan
2 Likes
Hi, Jan!
21.4.2020
I can see no reheating mantel (on the cyclone) after the (condensing) cooler…
Max
1 Like
I came upon it just when I was sending, but otherwise you think this filter is enough? How far between will I need to change the filter do you think?
1 Like
Hi, Jan!
21.4.2020
Shortcuts won’t work. I have reacently (2018) formulated the filter area.
Thoroughly built filters work for years.
Paper filters don’t stand dampness.
(The gas needs reheating after condensation, best on cyclone mantel)
If you do not look up “Hot filters”, you can have it here:
l = liters displacement
n = RPM : 1000
A = (n x l)
A = Filter area in square meters
Max
2 Likes
Thanks Max.
Do you drive a paper filter on your car? How do you think it works compared to what you had before? (have read your thread about your car (audi))
In the tests in my old books about gas, they have problems with the car losing power, as opposed to cork filters, because the cloth does not maintain its permeability.
A car that with cork signs do 75 km / h does about 60km / h with new cloth, and 50km / h with a cleaned cloth.
Will it be the same if I heat the gas and put on a twice as large filter as my engine now has? Hope you apologize for asking .
2 Likes
Hi , Jan!
22.4.2020
On all woodgas vehicles i have introduced re-heated gas through a paperfilter have worked cleanly and to full satisfaction.
This, with the supervision of the other nessesary components:
Cyclone, hot fabric filter, condensing cooler, reheating in a mantel welded on the cyclone, paperfilter.
You have to install ALL OF THEM, if you wish troublefree running!
The only one in that row, that can be omitted is the fabric filter.
The paperfilter after the cyclone mantel should be chosen for a motor of the double size as your motor.
Your original airfilter for air stays the same as before.
I hope you don’t join the quire “Do Less”!
Max
5 Likes
Thanks Max. Do you have the opportunity to take a picture of your design of filters and heating?
It would be very good for me to see.
3 Likes
Hi, Jan!
23.4.2020
I am a lousy documenter!
The 4 best projects include:
2 Jeep Cherokees (domestically)
DJ:s projects in the Netherlands (Volvo and “grasshoppers”)
A German local 80KW stationary electric plant in Wendland
My own Audi is still waiting to get rid of a traditional system
with cyclone, condensing cooler + underdimensioned
“open-cell” foam filter.
The Audi works quite well, but can be easily improved.
Heard the old saying:
“The shoemaker’s kids have the worst shoes in the village”?
Max
4 Likes
Hi, Jan!
24.4.2020
Are you going to weld a mantel on the cyclone and apply a paperfilter (in its own case)?
Max
I was going to do it, but I’m not sure when you not did it on your car.
I read about these boys, they had problems with the filter, although they have 3 kvm, and my engine is twice as big. The problems became bigger when they traveled shorter distances as well, which I usually do.
http://www.vedbil.se/dagbok/bygge/30.shtml
1 Like
I had the privilege to drive @Ron_L s tractor last year, it was one of the smoothest runing vehicle l ever driven.
He uses a hot filter allso. But with fiberglass insulation as a filter media. It seemed to work good althugh l have a bit of a worry that if the engine accidently sucks in a peace it may melt and scratch the cylinder. Its silica afterall… but with a towel safety filter before the engine it shuld eork fine.
4 Likes
Hi, Jan!
24.4.2020
Reheating the cooled and condesed gas on the cyclone has been done on several vehicles in my country and elsewere!
That is nothing exeptional. It does not need me to start my rebuild just to repeat what my collegues have already done!
So, pipe the wet gas from the condensing cooler upwards into a welded-on mantel, tangentially, to get it to circulate around the cyclone, to get the wet gas to dry properly!
Paperfilters can take ~110*C without any crumbling or deformation.
But wet gas will destroy them.
A Fringe case was the DJ-VOLVO, where he tried to do the
reheating with a motorcoolant “battery”= cooler, and acheived just a wet shrunk paperfilter, which did not let the gas through! (starting with a cold motor and coolant!)
The cyclone mantel is hot before starting on woodgas and keeping the (at first = initially bypassed) paper filter dry!
So, if you do not accept facts, choose some other way…
Max
3 Likes
