Im going by its spec and judging by the videos I can certainly see it reducing the water that much easily.
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The idea of reducing the nitrogen comes in two parts. First is just the reduction alone say 10% percent. That is 10% less in gas compostion and the other gasses produced take up that void.
The second part is filling the nitrogen void pre oxidation, that must be filled with something otherwise you have a loss in penitration. That can be replaced with steam more steam > more H2 and CO production. So this is boosting the gas composition farther than just that 10% reduction in nitrogen. We are not creating energy, we are replacing nitrogen and replacing it with an energy carrier in its place
But dont forget Oxygen is also replacing some of the nitrogen with the concentrator to allow the for the increase in steam for the water shift. There is already an abundance of heat we can scavage but we dont have a good means to optimize that process. Boiling the water is about it but thats realy hard to control.
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Not sure where you are getting your numbers for the fogger. Here is another example this converts 8.5 ltrs per hour with just 292 watts. So I think the little three head is going to pull less than a 100 watts.
I mean check this video out, that is nuts!!
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Now check this out, 1 litter of water if the gasifier is breaking it down to H2 will produce over 14000 BTU.
14000 BTU is equal to 1400 watts. So we have plenty of watts there we can sacrifice for both the atomizer and the oxygen concentrator. However this is the gross and not factoring engine losses before electrical output. But even so there should still be a signifact net gain.
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It is submersible, but it is supposed to float on the water. Like the sealed it to make it waterproof, but if you read their tips, like don’t tip it over, or use a floatation device for it. It means, it needs to float on the water.
I am just saying that to be clear. It is in the “tips” image in the product info. 
you could also add a temperature and humidity sensor, to keep track of the humidity in the chamber or maybe in the resulting airstream. Those are like 2 dollars from aliexpress. but something to think about adding after the proof of concept.
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I’ll move some of the clutter over here from the “Nozzles” thread. If flow is the problem, how about a pressurized water feed? The flow depends on the pressure drop across the needle valve. If it’s gravity fed, changes in nozzle pressure and surface tension effects change the pressure significantly. With something like an insect sprayer, you could put 5 psi or so in the tank, and pressure changes at the valve would be much smaller, percentage-wise.
This suggestion doesn’t mean I’m not eager to see how the misters work.
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Had me thinking… what if one was to atomize alcohol… I would imagine that would be one dangerous situation with a flame.
I had one of these but could not get it to stay at the right level it needs to be above the water… Thus you need the flotation device…
This might be ideal for starting plant cuttings.
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I think you are spot on dont forget temp changes as the water tank is bolted to the gasifier. Yeah there are a bunch things causing all this.
Yeah Ive thought about a pump. But how to do you apply it? Where can I put it? I was thinking maybe getting a fuel injector and possibly building it into the end of the nozzle too.
But this atomizer is really doing the same thing. Its not a pump but energy consumption is about the same and I think its going to be more effective.
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The one I have you fully submerge it and I just got it today; its incredible too!!
Yeah I said the same thing over the other and that got shot down imediatly. But Ethanol mixes well with water and its a great solution for freezing temps. And yes it works Ive done it.
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They can and are used for controlling the humidity in plant chambers especially cloning, where you want to keep the humidity high for the leaves to absorb the water since they don’t have a root systems at that point. One Cavaet, that I read was because it is actually water droplets thrown into the air, it displaces the gases like oxygen/co2.
They are also used for hydroponics for the root systems themselves, but usually short on/off cycles.
for consumer devices they are used as humidifiers and essential oil diffusers, and lots and lots of buzzers or haptic feedback devices.
mine came with a long spike and a wick that has a spring to maintain contact with the buzzer. a piece of pool noodle keeps it floating. However, I burned one out by submerging it testing it out. And I think that might have to do with the lack of waterproof coating. between the two conductive sides.
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You are right!! It does work submerged but only to an extent. If its to deep then it dont produce hardly anything. So no biggy I just cut the float device to fit the ammo box and its working fine.
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Ok I just got to go and process some charcoal and will be ready for the first test. The oxygen concentrator I wont be able to order until next week. So going to test with just this atomizer for now. So far based on its output its looking pretty promising.
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Excellent! (20 characters)
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I just read the ‘tips’ in the description.
It works similar to putting styrofoam beads on top of a speaker and they get flung up. , I’m actually surprised it produces anything submerged.
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When I first tried it I didnt have a lot in the tank. It was probably pretty close to the level over top as it is with the float device.
I think I got a return based on how it was packaged. It looked like a re pack. First try it seemed to output more than it is right now after building this.
We will see what happens, its up and running now with 6 liters of water installed. We will see what the run time is and how much is consumed at the end. If we can get 3 hours than it should move 4.5 liters according to its spec. However I have not noticed any change with the hose connected or disconected. But we will just have to see. If it dont output the spec Ill just get a bigger one lol
Started the engine at exaclty 3 pm.
Edit #1: Ok Im going to add edit to this post as we are limited to consecutive post. Ok so first observation after roughly 30 min into the run. Is the output hose is much colder than the last two runs with boiler jet. That does not mean a whole lot as sometimes the machine can just run hot for what ever reason and those last runs just ran that way. I dont know. But this is a change so far. This could still change so I will keep monitoring this as I go and report later.
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LOL Im already looking at a bigger one. hahaha. Yeah its not phased at all with this one. But if I go to this one Ill need a bigger ammo box. This one should move 5 liters and hour.
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I am not sure I am surprised. The 1.7mhz disks I looked at were rated at 440ml/hr.
Not to ruin your ammo can motif, but I might look at like a 5 gallon bucket, or if you have to buy something, the larger like 27 gallon storage containers might actually be cheaper, they are like 10 bucks, and that is about what they want for a 5 gallon bucket and lid nowadays.
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I dont care about cost this is funded by the company. But yeah Im looking at the plastic ones on Amazon that that bigger one will fit in. Depending on what I find today I may or may not order this set up. If I do it wont be until next week.
But anyways hose temp has gone up to where it was with the other test so no change there.
We will just have to see what the consumption is at the end to really know. Right now we only speculate.
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Yeah just measured the level it had 6 inches and now an hour an half in it still has 5 1/2" Yeah not enough !
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Matt, kudos for your effort and the ideas you share with us.
If I were ever to start making a charcoal gasifier (which I doubt, because I’ve indulged myself with using wood chips), I would think like this:
- the engine must work in low and high load, which means that the intensity of gas production changes
- the gas must be constantly strong, which means that we have to feed a constant mixture of water vapor and air into the process, here I would focus on the key information and that is how many grams of water vapor per kilogram of air, which is information about the absolute humidity of the air
- since absolute humidity cannot be measured directly, but is calculated on the basis of relative air humidity and temperature, I would focus only on temperature, since heated air can only accept a certain amount of water vapor, then it becomes saturated and the additional water condenses in the capsules, this can be easily controlled if the amount of water vapor that the air receives heated up to 90°C is sufficient, above 100°C there will be no more condensation and thus there will be no more control of the mixture in this way
- the temperature of the mixture would be easiest to control with the engine coolant, where the thermostat regulates the temperature, …
this is just a thought, but maybe it will be useful for someone…
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