I picked up the Dakota frame and axle I posted about a few weeks ago but I also found a scrap baler in my area so I’m going to try that route. The frame and axle will be used to move the baler chunker around. What parts do I need from the baler other than the gear box? Would it be possible to have the option for PTO driven? I’ve read through some of the other threads, I just want to make sure I’m not missing something obvious.
Thanks
Forgot to mention, it’s a John Deere 336 if that matters.
The John Deere 336 has a belt grove in the flywheel. The Amish around here pull them with horses and drive the bailer with a gas engine and belt to the flywheel. I know that is a long way around the barn but it fits their rules. You should have a power take-off assembly on the baler already. Lots of good info on here if you search baler chunker and lots of good videos on here and youtube of DOW members setups.
Isn’t that the baler model that the last one designed to run off a pony engine? I heard the Amish were looking for those. In otherwords, it might actually be worth a lot more money then a newer busted baler since you only need a few parts. But I don’t know for sure, nor do I know what is broken or the condition of the one you have.
I haven’t bought it yet, waiting to hear back from the seller on what all is there. It sounds like the one he has listed has been used for parts and at least the driveshaft and flywheel are missing. I don’t have a way to transport the entire baler due to its width so I’m hoping I can just remove the parts I would need.
Any idea how hard it would be to get a different flywheel if the gearbox is there? I wouldn’t be opposed to running from a small motor or engine instead of PTO or I suppose I could use another driveshaft (I have one from the Dakota frame I bought).
This will be my first attempt at fabrication so I may be over (or under) thinking it. Thanks for your input.
Keep looking. It MUST have a flywheel in my opinion. Also pay attention to the direction of rotation. On mine I have to run the gearbox reverse of what the PTO drive would be (and a couple of others I know of) due to ease of feed and anvil location. Mine is a New Holland. Originally powered by 5hp electric but now converted to gas 212cc predator that I found on sale for $100 . I found that can be a lot more convenient to move the chunker to the wood than wood to the chunker. If you can find a baler with tires willing to hold air till you get home I would take the whole baler cause there is a lot of sheet metal and other stuff that can be repurposed to other devices. Mine came with 2 full rolls of baling wire. (The original farmer/rancher zip tye). One curse of this site is it will teach you not look at what something is now but what it can be with sweat and imagination . 
Remember that a baler is meant to be drug behind something doesn’t have to be a tractor doesn’t need to be loaded on a trailer
Here I thought a baler WAS the excuse to upgrade your tractor. What do you tell the wifey now? Because now she will say, you don’t need that, you can just use the minivan.
BUT dear the minivan doesn’t have a PTO unless you want to ride the baler and operate the hand crank 
Alright, listed baler was missing gearbox as well but he has a second one to part out so I’m getting driveshaft, flywheel and gearbox from that one. Should be able to use material from the Dakota frame and axle to mount everything. Anything else I need while I’m there?
Thanks
He said they are not road worthy but it was certainly worth considering.
I dont know how heavy that gearbox is, though it shuld be at least as heavy duty as the older new hollan bailer gear boxes.cheers.