Properties of a good wood gasifier

We all know that if we want to get gas from a substance, we must first heat the substance to its boiling point, that’s the only way to get gas. All the previous knowledge I have acquired in the field of gasifiers falls into the water when I look at the properties of carbon. It has a boiling temperature of more than 4000°C, which means that oxidation and burning take place at this temperature. At home, I have an electric air heater up to a temperature of 650°C, but I tried to light the charcoal, … of course without success, well, the wood starts to gasify and burns already at a much lower temperature (350°C). I did the next experiment with a diesel glow plug, which heats up to a very high temperature, the tip probably exceeds 1000°C, but interestingly, even this does not ignite the charcoal. It is obviously true that coal needs 4000°C for ignition and in fact the temperature in the heart of the gasifier is this. At this temperature, all metals melt, unless they are slightly removed and protected from this focal point by fine coal and ash.
The word plasma comes from the word flame, so actually the reduction of pyrolysis gases takes place in the plasma of carbon atoms at a temperature of more than 4000°C, this is a fact.

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Hi Tone,
Just one idea maybe you can use.
Rindert

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“simple gasifier” for torofied wood, … air supply only through the central nozzle, … I increased the hole in the middle of the nozzle from approx. 7 mm to 12 mm, there are 6 holes of 4 mm above, … the pictures will tell more








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So many questions but just one by one.

How did you drill those holes in te central nozzle? Very hard steel?

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How do you plan to light it way down there?

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Curiosity got the best of me, I had to test this gasifier, I put some charcoal at the bottom so it covered the air nozzle, then filled it with raw wood, …how it works, you can judge for yourself






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Does the same job and much smaller?

Thanks for the drills

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So you lit the charcoal before filling with wood?

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He likely lit it at the bottom nozzle from below

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Tone,
I like that cordless heat gun you light gasifiers with. That is another brilliant innovation! :cowboy_hat_face:

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I light the gasifier simply from the top, just like Wayne does, when the charcoal lights up, I fill the wood to the top. The engine from the tractor is a little too big for this gasifier, but I wanted to test whether the metals and the construction can withstand such gas consumption.

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higly interesting your builds…on the foto from 2 days ago there is to see a sheet inside of the outerwall, with many holes and splits…kan you explain for what is it?

ciao giorgio
is the gasifier for your bcs mowers…or the vw van?

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Giorgio, as I wrote above, this inner part, from the natural gas burner, is made of thin stainless steel sheet and surrounded on the outside by a particularly dense mesh, which nicely distributes the mixture of gas and air. Combustion thus takes place on a large surface and at a lower temperature, which is a condition for reducing the formation of NOx gases. Here I have used this for a single nozzle gasifier following the down and sideways process, the mesh will hold most of the ash which I will remove below with a rotating disc, at the same time the hot gases will superheat the contents of the tank and aid in pyrolysis, the pyrolysis gases will also enter very hot into the hot zone area. An experiment with raw wood shows that the thing works, it is very interesting to note that enough air enters through 6 openings with a diameter of 4 mm, that the process runs and produces enough gas for the operation of the tractor.
I will install this gasifier on a BCS mower, I will make a bigger version for a VW or Mazda, according to the sketches I drew and posted.

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I would like to try a central nozzle, like Tone uses in its gasifiers. So, for some time now, I have been looking for where to find these famous hexagonal drill bits for pneumatic hammers?but I can’t find anything similar here Does anyone have a recommendation? :disappointed_relieved:
image

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I believe they are stone cutting drill bits. Typically hollow and made of very high carbon steel.

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Hey Trigaux,
Why don’t you just use a pipe? I’m sure the only reason Tone used a hexagonal piece was just because that’s what he had lying around.
Rindert

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Hi Rinder
what I understand is that these old drill bits had a very high carbon content, which made them very heat resistant.

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Rindert, these drilbiIts are purpously used for this. I use them as nozzles too, for “clasical” gasifiers. They are just the right size and thickness, but most of all, wery high carbon steel. Somehow this has shown to be important for hot, oxidative enviroments.

Thierry, you can use any high carbon steel of good thicknes. Torsion rods, axles… but you will need to drill them. To do that its best to aneal them first, heat the peace to orange heat and let them cool as slow as possible, in vermiculite or in the dying forge itself.

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Quarry’s or blasting companys use to have them, if its a welded hard metal “edge” and the edge brokes, or is worn beyond sharpening, they often throw them away, even the modern ones, with replacable “crown” can go bad, or bend.

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Thierry may get lucky if he looks for “Tool steel” grade DOM tubing. I’m sure there’s some sort of high carbon hydraulic tubing.

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