The world wide web is full of videos about wood gasifiers, well, most of them have probably only worked a few times. Even here on this forum there are few regular users of wood gas, which means that managing this process is not exactly easy. Making a good wood gasifier yourself takes a lot of time and requires a lot of skill. Sometimes it is cheaper to ask a craftsman who is a specialist in a certain field to make certain parts, well, the plans have to be made to the last detail.
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I was thinking a little about how to easily connect the cooling of the condensation zone to the engine cooling system without an additional pump with the goal of getting cold water to cool the gasifier… well, the sketch is one thing, but the configuration of the thermostat and pump placement on the engine is another…
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Why mix it? Not just max cool it after the radiator?
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Hi Joep, I’m trying to keep it simple, like Bob would say “kiss”.
A brief explanation of the idea of hydraulic connection:
-the pump pushes water through the system, so a certain difference in pressure appears before and after it
-the thermostat (three-way valve) maintains the “working” temperature of the engine at about 80°C, so at the beginning the water circulates only through the engine, and in the radiator it stands still, well, if we look at where the main pressure drop occurs, we find that this is the thermostat with its relatively small cross-section
-the difference in pressure that occurs at the thermostat can be used to establish a flow for cooling the gasifier, by pushing the cooled water from the radiator towards the gasifier, slightly warming it, which returns, and mixes with the flow in front of the pump
-I monitored the temperature of the water on the return from the radiator at Fergi, I can safely say that at full load it rarely reaches 50°C, usually the pipe is cold, so cooling of the gasifier surface will be reliably ensured
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Tone, to late yesterday. What I mean, just let it all flow from the cooler through the gasifier. The motor warms up and the gasifier starts cooling. If the gasifier reaches temp befor the engine just drill a small hole in the thermostat.
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I live on steep terrain, so I installed a movable weight (400 kg) on the forklift, which I move to the front when driving uphill.
when carrying a load, on the rear part
Lately I’ve just been drawing sketches of gasifiers and not doing anything concrete, that has to change… I have some shiny scrap metal in stock…
angle cutter and plasma,… some spare parts were created
I tried to assemble it to get a feel for further construction.
The diameter of the inner container is 50 cm, and the outer one is 60 cm, the total height will be approximately 130 cm, the fuel capacity will be approximately 170 liters,… to be continued
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You go the Swedish way! No doubt it will be a top creation again.
Out of the box, the counterweight!!
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That weight is among the smartest creations i ever seen 
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At first I thought you had to use your arm wrestling abilities to move that weight from front to back until I saw that clever hinged arm. 
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Do we see a future wood or charcoal gasifier mounted to a vehicle that could cause you to put a SWEM on your face as you drive by a gas station?
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Hello Bob, I plan to make a wood gasifier according to the pattern I drew on the sketch some time ago, I will probably make some changes during the construction.
The basic plan is that the hot zone starts in the width of the funnel (50cm), then it narrows to 30cm, I will probably add nozzles in the upper part of the 30cm narrowing.
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Do you still intend to heat the hopper with exhaust gases and install a probe (hygrometer) in the exhaust gas cooling radiator?
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Thierry, as you can see, the inner narrow boiler has an additional heating jacket already made, I plan to use this for heating with engine exhaust gases, well, a hydrometer is not in the plan, since the purpose here is to gasify wood, where “too little” moisture is not a problem,… 
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This will be very interesting to follow Tone, on how you will handle the extra heat in the lower part of the hopper cone restriction area with hot air being added from nozzles just above the main firetube nozzles are located.
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Okay… but excessive humidity is a problem. If the probe detects moisture in the gas, couldn’t it activate mechanisms to reduce the humidity upstream? Like cooling the lid or a vacuum in the condensate drain (like Kolyvan)…
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Thierry, I agree with you, maybe I’ll install a moisture meter, well, my calculations or predictions show that the ideal cooled condensation zone is with a temperature of 70-80 °C, so there remains a suitable amount of water vapor to “cool” the hot zone…
Today there was not much progress, I cleaned the inside of the containers and prepared a piece of sheet metal for the partition in the hollow part for heating with exhaust gases,…
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tone, i see in a few days a new gasifier is ready…i need month…
the weights of the forklift…is it full iron or hollow and filled?
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Giorgio, this gasifier will not be finished so soon,…
The forklift’s load capacity is 1500 kg, the weight of the forklift itself without weights is approximately 1200 kg - 1300 kg, the movable weight consists of 4 pieces of solid iron (approximately 400 kg), a full gas cylinder (120 kg), a lower support plate (150 kg),… total weight approximately 2000 kg
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Let’s move on from the forklift to our main activity - the manufacture of the gasifier,…
The partition in the jacket for heating the funnel is welded, the plan is to continue the hot zone with the same diameter of 50 cm, which is a very large cross-section, well, I have another piece of the same diameter with a double wall available. I will use a piece with a height of 25 cm and make holes at the bottom for the exit of gas and ash, the picture shows how I plan to do this.
This thing will be a real wood burner, the bottom nozzle will play a key role in preventing the passage of tar gases, I also rely on the heat of the exhaust gases, which will “trigger” pyrolysis and push the moist gases under the hood.
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Your trademark Tone and you proved it does a great job. Looking forward to this build.
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