Thanks, that is a new one. Got a link long ago from Dutch John about cyclones (now I know where he got it from 
), works like a charm but you really need that cone.
This system was talked about in another thread, works ok too. The advantage in my opinion is the lower speed of separation and therefor less pressure loss, together with simple fabrication.
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Joep, did you think so, to insert a conical baffle plate into the pipe, it is easy to make, to reshape the sheet metal with a hydraulic press,…
Bob, you have good ideas, Steve, your proposal is also interesting and simple.
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Yes, something like that. Think of a weight turning on a rope. If you make the rope shorter , the weight speeds up. Going down the cone. As soon as it goes threw the hole at the bottom dust goes outside (rope gets longer) , it looses speed and drops. Take a look/google at Bill Penz.
The link Mr Steve provided there is a horizontal plate between separation and collection. Cant remember who posted in the other tread but there were nice videos about separation of MDF dust.
I once put a cylinder on top of a briquette press and the whole cylinder started turning with no separation Try and error. It is essential the air/dust has some place to separate and keeps it separated.
Cons of a real cyclone
1 high speed and pressure loss
2 much higher/longer build
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Did I show pictures of my horizontal separator? It was on a CZ press. Works ok too.
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I never quite understood the function of the swirl burner in the GEK model other than it was a blower, but I think it pulled bigger particulates out of the gas stream from the cyclone. This also had a movable circular grate.
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? Swirl burner? Doesnt it just do what it says? Make the gas swirl and mix with air for better combustion?
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We all know that if we want to get gas from a substance, we must first heat the substance to its boiling point, that’s the only way to get gas. All the previous knowledge I have acquired in the field of gasifiers falls into the water when I look at the properties of carbon. It has a boiling temperature of more than 4000°C, which means that oxidation and burning take place at this temperature. At home, I have an electric air heater up to a temperature of 650°C, but I tried to light the charcoal, … of course without success, well, the wood starts to gasify and burns already at a much lower temperature (350°C). I did the next experiment with a diesel glow plug, which heats up to a very high temperature, the tip probably exceeds 1000°C, but interestingly, even this does not ignite the charcoal. It is obviously true that coal needs 4000°C for ignition and in fact the temperature in the heart of the gasifier is this. At this temperature, all metals melt, unless they are slightly removed and protected from this focal point by fine coal and ash.
The word plasma comes from the word flame, so actually the reduction of pyrolysis gases takes place in the plasma of carbon atoms at a temperature of more than 4000°C, this is a fact.
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“simple gasifier” for torofied wood, … air supply only through the central nozzle, … I increased the hole in the middle of the nozzle from approx. 7 mm to 12 mm, there are 6 holes of 4 mm above, … the pictures will tell more
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So many questions but just one by one.
How did you drill those holes in te central nozzle? Very hard steel?
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How do you plan to light it way down there?
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Curiosity got the best of me, I had to test this gasifier, I put some charcoal at the bottom so it covered the air nozzle, then filled it with raw wood, …how it works, you can judge for yourself
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Does the same job and much smaller?
Thanks for the drills
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So you lit the charcoal before filling with wood?
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He likely lit it at the bottom nozzle from below
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Tone,
I like that cordless heat gun you light gasifiers with. That is another brilliant innovation! 
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I light the gasifier simply from the top, just like Wayne does, when the charcoal lights up, I fill the wood to the top. The engine from the tractor is a little too big for this gasifier, but I wanted to test whether the metals and the construction can withstand such gas consumption.
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higly interesting your builds…on the foto from 2 days ago there is to see a sheet inside of the outerwall, with many holes and splits…kan you explain for what is it?
ciao giorgio
is the gasifier for your bcs mowers…or the vw van?
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Giorgio, as I wrote above, this inner part, from the natural gas burner, is made of thin stainless steel sheet and surrounded on the outside by a particularly dense mesh, which nicely distributes the mixture of gas and air. Combustion thus takes place on a large surface and at a lower temperature, which is a condition for reducing the formation of NOx gases. Here I have used this for a single nozzle gasifier following the down and sideways process, the mesh will hold most of the ash which I will remove below with a rotating disc, at the same time the hot gases will superheat the contents of the tank and aid in pyrolysis, the pyrolysis gases will also enter very hot into the hot zone area. An experiment with raw wood shows that the thing works, it is very interesting to note that enough air enters through 6 openings with a diameter of 4 mm, that the process runs and produces enough gas for the operation of the tractor.
I will install this gasifier on a BCS mower, I will make a bigger version for a VW or Mazda, according to the sketches I drew and posted.
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I would like to try a central nozzle, like Tone uses in its gasifiers. So, for some time now, I have been looking for where to find these famous hexagonal drill bits for pneumatic hammers?but I can’t find anything similar here Does anyone have a recommendation? 
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