Thanks Tone, this one looks real good and simple. And thanks Sean, just looked at that one a few weeks ago and lost it. The idea really sticks, especially that I have some screws lying around. My current chunker is having some problems now and then and there might be some problems this winter. I didnt arrange wood 
, to busy working. Pre- chunk with a screw might be nice. There are two things holding me back. One is jamming. A friend uses a Laimet and complains about the drama if the thing jams. Another one is my screws. They are rather light, 3 mm 1/8â blades, diameter 135 mm 5â. Could it work with fresh willow1 inch? I have slightly more time available but not enough to screw up 
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These screw chunkers look really tempting! They seam less violent. Id like to try building one that can process slabs. Already started keeping my eyes on the metal dumpsters at work for pillow block bearings and anything else that might be incorporated into one.
But like @Pelletpower said, time is very limited. And dad already has a chunker so that will be the method of choice till i get time to experiment with a screw type.
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And he showed it is a top chunker. And Mr Wayne of course. He proved that is the way to go with slabs.
Me? Only blabbering and want to stay as close to sawdust as I can. My friend uses a Laimet for willow (ok) and Laurier ( not ok). He complaines about jamming. On the other hand, mine will be electric. Switch direction and problem solved.
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From what I could see from the video, the blades on the auger didnât look like they were connected as a helix. If not I would like to build one like this. I have quarter inch plate to cut the blades from but probably wouldnât want to go to the trouble of making a tool to bend the plates to connect them.
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I believe they were connected. But it looked like there were only three plates total used. And that is what appealed to me.
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I think that only two spirals would be enough for the device to grab the wood and move it forward. If you look closely, a smaller cutting knife is installed at the end, which is essential for cutting thin twigs and fibers, well, less spirals also means easier drive and a quick cut at the end in the style of WK chunker.
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I added this knife at the endâŚ.
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How thick do you think the flights need to be?
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That depends how big you want you fuel.
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Im thinking in terms of running slabs threw it. Perfurably oak. Ill prabably have to go for stuff under 6" wide but could be up to 2-3 inches thick,
.25" to light?
.375 too much?
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I would say, go for 0,375. If you have acces to srews this is an easy job. If you have to fabricate the blades I would never build this. It will take a lot of you time and the outlining will be a pain in âŚ. If that isnt done properly you need a lot more power.
No expert but that are my thoughts.
Mr Wayne has proven that his chunker is the way to go on slabs.
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I would make them .375 thick. I donât have a bunch of hydraulic equipment. If it were me I would first heat up the flights in my forge, and then put c-clamps on them and open them up that way.
Rindert
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So, those discs on the auger are called flights? I never knew that. .375. Is that close to 3/8ths? Seems like you could have to get them at least cherry red to bend them at all. Would you then temper the edges?
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Yup. .375 = 3/8
Not sure whether I would temper them. I think Iâd try using it soft first. Then if it needed tempering Iâd look into how to do it
If the kind of steel he has will take a temper I would probably try to do just the cutting edges. Or else I might try to put charcoal powder just on the edges when the steel is orange hot. I would first do tests on a piece of scrap. Remember hard and brittle usually go together.
Rindert
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I think the best way to prolong the flights would be to get the edges welded up with hard faced rods , they will give the flights a longer life as far as the cutting edges go .
Also for those interested in building something along the lines , look out for old plastic extruderâs screwâs in the scrap yards say 150mm upwards as they have a perfect transition flight that could be made into a chunker and once cut to length and shaft turned down to fit bearings .
Dave
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Kristjan also has a similar machine, it is a machine intended for cutting straw, well, I donât have it at home yet, but I think it will also cut branches well, it has rollers for feeding the material, where the cutting length is adjusted.
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Lumag is almost the same as Lumago. Pallets are still free overhere. Only this machine is crazy expensive.
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I couldnât help but try this one,âŚ. 
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Are you serious? More workouts? Better then your srewchunker?
A friend pointed me to this one. He has a Laimet and thinks of building something like this.
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Joep, I bought this for 100 Euros, for the pleasure of seeing how it cuts wood, first the bar is 34 mm, then 48 mm, well, the manual drive at a thickness of 50 mm is not easy, but it still works. The device is more than 100 years old, the wheel probably weighs more than 100 kg, the machine would probably fit well with Giorgioâs historic tractor,âŚ
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