Not at all. In a way a circular or squere pipe flute ring is even easyer to make. Problem is that this is breaking new ground. The double flute is not yet well understood and tests shuld be made first to determine the right geometry of such a gasifier. Mainly the angle of the nozzles. Once we know whats optimal for performance and longlivity of the flutes, we can go on with welding 4 flutes in a rectangle shape for an even air distribution.
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Or you could just cut a lid down in diameter so it slips inside and down onto or just above the nozzles and have a hole cut in the middle thus allowing for a nice flow path to the center nozzle area and not allowing charcoal /wood mix behind the nozzles .
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Behind and under the nozzles isnt much of a problem, its all lying in ash. Its here that might be a problem
Will see
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Another idea for the testing. Create an octagon from eight 45° angles and eight inner threads. You will get almost circle with up to eight nozzles drilled in the middle of threads. You may adjust direction of nozzles by rotating the thread. You may adjust diameter by screwing threads in or out into angles.
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That was my idea too. I don’t like fittings because expensive, but maybe you use obtainium. Kool. I would use the angle grinder and welder more. A nozzle ring like this would feed air to all of the nozzles equally, zero Bernoulli effects.
Rindert
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https://youtu.be/58JqszIZXFI
https://youtu.be/93MvKv7fGoE
Do excuse the redneck thermometer 
Hadnt had the will for anything after a nightshift today, decided to get to the project ab bit. Filter/cooler is finished. But man, either l am incompetente or Marcus is a true artist. Made a 8" barrel steel filter housing, it was one of the uglyest things l ever made no way rolling that thing with only hands. Had to strap it together and hammer it with a mallet.
But anyways, it seems its all going to plan!
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I have been told I have a lot of patience for metalwork by my high school metal shop teacher 
funny because as I get older terry the torch comes out to play a lot more often guess my patience has gravitated to my kids! Still looks like it serves the purpose nicely even if it’s a little crooked 
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It apears this particular barrel must of been thicker for some reason. It welded wonderfully. But an absolute pain to roll.
Anyways, l take watertight wealds over good looks any day
A nother thing l noticed. The center pipe is a enamel coated chimney pipe l found in the junk pile. I was afraid how it wuld weld but it welded fantastic! The glassy enamel melted over the bead and even made a nice finish on top
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I was a little curiose how that welded up it looked thin in the video
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Whats the thicknes of tipical barrel material?
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The ones I used where 16 gauge for the main gassifier body, the lighter ones I used for the baffle was 18 gauge
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It really depends.
I’ve had a few different 55 gallon size barrels with varying thicknesses. The solid welded top ones seem to be thinner, and I finally see what Wayne means by sturdy 55 gallon drums when I found some absolutely heavy drums at the scrap yard last week.
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Hi Kristijan
once the geometry of this gasifier has been optimized, are you going to build the hearth in refractory materials or keep a self-adjusting hearth in ash and coal dust?
I suspect that the refractory materials allow higher temperatures to be reached and therefore better reduction rates?
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I dont think l will. The best refractory material in the universe is carbon, its also light and free. Also self repairing.
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Kristijan , i am keen to see how the gas temp will go on this downdraft build of yours once you give a engine some of this gas , on the few i made i had very hot and weak gas and also hot filters downstream , so i was wondering if i could use another smaller tank next to the gasifier filled with charcoal in a filter /cooler configuration sort of way , before letting the gas go through my normal filter material , anyway i have all fingers and toe’s crossed for you and hoping it will be as good if not better than your other builds .
Dave
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is Mako a gasifier with self-adjusting refractory lining of ash and coal dust?
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The Mako used no refractory at all if my memory serves me right.
Only ones that used refractory were Svedlund single nozzles. At least as far as units portrayed in the Gengas book.
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If l remember right Mako had a cast refractory hearth with 3 nozzles.
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Played and experimented with the gasifier a litle bit. Decided to put it on camera. Its a long video, feel free to skip. At around 7 min l managed to light it.
So, l wanted to try what happens if you only use wet charcoal in the sistem. And l do mean WET. Like literaly soaked.
As expected, its hard to light and my first atempt to light it with engine suction failed. Had to bring the shopvac in. After the charcoal lit it started producing gas quite fast, and, ofcorse, a lot of steam. I was amazed it lit at all. And boy what a flare! This was the first time l tested it at dusk, on previous test l flared at mid day and l culdnt see the flame inside.
I regret not filming it but to much of my surprice the engine cranked right up on gas. And l did not excpect it to run nearly as well as it did.
Now, before anyone starts crying for that engine abuse let me calm you, this trusty old Seats life has expired and its in its last month. Only registred till October, then it will be scrapped so it can afford a bit of fun before death
Even thugh the gas is super wet and not the richest from all the steam cooling the gasifiers hearth, engine reached redline wich l dont recall ever acheaving with a updraft gasifier that was mounted on this car. Throtle response was similar to that of petrol and it even idled well for some time, untill the steam cooled the gasifier too much…
This test was primarly made to test the gasifier and cooler/filter temperature on real engine draw even with wet gas (steam carrys more heat), l dont want overheating on this thing. And it was an absolute sucsess, even after this overdraw torture the whole sistem can be touched.
I also noticed a big improvement on sistem drag compared to my previous sistem. This air control flap is from my Mercedes and l seem to recall there the the valve was set to about 25% open for the engine to run optimal, here it was 50% wich suggests both the gasifier and the towel filter are nicely flowing, even being soaking wet.
I also brought the Škoda home yesterday. Have a licence plate light to fix then its time to mount this thing on…
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