Steve, l like that idea! Its allso not legal here but still a interasting sorce of ideas… lead can be cast in many forms, including bumper shapes…
On my Mercedes a 150 pound bag of salt, cement or whatever in the trunk was mandatory in order to get anywhere.
I like the idea of making a separate intake manifold. Probably less work thain modifying the existing one. And since you mention heating, take a look at this diagram
It realy does run great with all the heating. My “carbouratorised” Mercedes runs like crap in cold weather, ice forms on the intake manifold…
But its quite complicated and it is possible coolant is connected to the block via the manifold… something l do not want to fiddle with if l build a new manifold.
The bad thing about front wheel drive vehicles, is any weight added too back end of vehicle makes the front wheels have even less traction, on my 28 mpg pontiac vibe, its built with longer rear storage like a wagon, it gets lousy traction in snow empty.Well i need new tires on that vehicle though. But when i had my mini van lightly loaded in the rear compartment, it would get stuck in the wet snow, on the other hand the wet snow with ice underneath the snow is the easyest way too spin out or just get stuck in the least emount of snow.I know the feeling i slid off the snowy road years ago with a working 3/4 ton 4×4 4 wheel drive chevy truck in the damp snow, luckily a man stoped with a 1/2 ton ford and pulled right out of the ditch with a stretch type pull out rope. And i was burried up too the frame in wet snow.
Hi, Kristijan!
27.2.2020
Is there room to rize the carburettor 40 – 50 mm up from the intake manifold?
Or is it “watermantel connected” to the intake manifold?
Pictures would help organising thougths…Reveiling room in all directions (for arriving gasline and airline)
Now that know your engine is turned 180° compared to later models, I’m beginning to wonder if a mpfi intake will fit.
Anyway this was my first thinking:
Maybe a flat box could be squized in between carb and intake manifold? Fed by a separate tb to the side. That would be pretty much a standard “under the carb” setup.
Kristijan, I want a Skoda. Everything here is rusted away and unsafe to drive, or newer and way over complicated. I looked at your available USA vehicle list. Those prices are Criminal. I saw a (1989) Ford Ranger for almost 10,000 Euro?? I paid less than that for a brand-new 1992, which is 98% the same vehicle, that was worn-out and rusting before 100,000 miles (161K Km). I think when you got your Mercedes, and this Skoda, you are thinking clearly. Don’t get me wrong, we have some really good vehicles here. Just not worth paying premium prices. (and what parts are to be found in your local scrapyards and barns, backyards.)
Yes that is the direction l am thinking of. Ons negative side thugh. This way some idle mix will still be sucked trugh the carb…
Mike, criminal indeed. There are practicaly no official dealers for US vehicles here so every vehicle was shiped here privately, hence the price. Spare parts are just about non existant allso.
Workhorses like this Škoda are cheap but rarely sold because noone wants to let them go. Diesels are somewhat more common thugh…
Cars like this Škoda go for about 1500$ here. A few months ago l missed a Škoda with a 75hp mpfi. Called minutes to late. Funny cheap too, 300$. But l payed just as much for this one so thats not to bad either, just a bit more fuss with the carb…
To much of my surprice, this carb is actualy quite complicated. Electronic and mechanic. It has a good warmup system, and possibly even idle control. Nothing like the all mechanical carb l am used to from my MB.
It has a bypass port as far as l know.
You are probably right. I do not mind a few drops of petrol ror idle but l like the gasifier to breath allso while idleing. Mabee riseing idle will solve that
Hi Kristijan!
28.2.2020
You obviously misread my question!
The watercirculations between cylinder head and intake manifold was already obious and clear with one round earlier!
What I was asking was another (probable) water-connection!
Between the carburettor and the manifold’s watermantel!
With other words: Is the CARBURETTOR watermanteled too?
Now, if the carburettor has no watermanteling connected to the intake manifold, and it can be rised 30 – 50 mm up, a new perspective is opening!
Leaving the carburettor completly intact for gasoline use ONLY, and introducing a “horseshoe” flange between the gasoline carburettor and the intace manifold.
Through this “horseshoe” flange you can horizontally
feed in woodgas/air mixture from an independent
“Woodgas carburettor”, with 2 equal throats, one for air and the other for woodgas…
I have had two of these skoda pickups but in 1.9 diesel.
I like the undercab mixer jo are talking about.
How much hybriding will you do? If not much you could put a valve on the fuel line and let the cab run dry.
It will need some cranking next time you start on petrol but not to bad.
And some carburetors don’t leak, I think dutch john was using stromberg slide carbs with blocked idle holes.
Just want too know why the wood gas wont work through the air cleaner. ? Thanks. PS that car runs too good maybe you want too run on charco. Though more filters on wood gas may be easyer than makeing piles of charco. ?? Good luck with the directions too design with.
Do you mean in my case or in general? In general woodgas is too wet to pass trugh the original filter. Charcoal gas can thugh, l had the gas piped in the air breather on my Seat and l still drive with the same filter.
I am planing to. I found mixing wood with charcoal works best in any downdraft gasifier. There is no need for a monorator or WK hopper, the gasifier is more responcive, no need to inject water orexhaust, less smoke at refills… best of both worlds.
Thanks was your little car you called your seat car charco or wood gas or mixed.Thanks for posting your design and ideas with results.I remember you had a sock type filter in line some place. ?
The Seat was the first 4 wheel vehicle l ever gasified. It was charcoal powered. Yes, it had a bath towel filter.
I am still a ambasador for towels as filter media. They breath great and filter real good.
I had a visitor today, a potential new woodgaser. Drove over from the south of the country for a chat and a couple of beers. Drove in a Subaru he gasified him self, but on LPG. Pitty his English is poor, wuld be a good contribution to the site because he is a doer.
He built the simplest, brobably best LPG sistem l have ever seen. He designed a simple metering gas/air mixer with only one moveing part and adjustible in all ratios. If he agrees, l will post more details here. It might have a future in woodgas too!
Anyway, we looked at the carb of the Škoda and he pointed out this carb has a electeic idle shutoff valve. Disconnecting it kills the engine instantly. Unfortunaly it doesent shut off the main jets. But this means l can build a “horse shoe” adapter under the carb like discussed previously without idleing fuel dribleing in with the woodgas.
I allso decided on the route of woodgas pipeing. I have most of the materials on hand, l hope to throw things together in the next week. That is if nothing else jumps in between as it usualy does…
I think it is not important if his English is poor. I would be very interested to see what he is doing. Maybe he just wants to show pictures, schemas, things like that. Perfect.
Rindert
