Sure, I’ll go find it and edit it into this comment. Have you seen Matt’s video on his ammo box gasifier?
Matt found a better way to make his nozzles without needing to cut threads on the nozzle pipe.
He uses the 1" couple and puts in a 1" to 3/4" reducer bushing. He then takes a 3/4" pipe and cuts slits in the end so it fits a 1/2" pipe easily. When you thread the 3/4" pipe into the coupler it bites down on the 1/2" pipe to hold it down. This way you can swap them out quickly and take the whole nozzle assembly out without needing to dive into the barrel. Removes from outside.
Best part is since you can use plumbing couplers that means you can just braze that bad boy into the barrel. If it doesn’t work out just plug it with a 1" plumbing plug.
This kinda works like a downdraft but I think it also behaves like a cross draft without the risk of having too short of a charcoal filtering area.
Ammo Box No Weld Gasifier Build Tutorial Segment 1 @ 06:20
Ammo Box No Weld Gasifier Build Tutorial Segment 2 @ 14:00
So this is a diagonal down/cross draft. In the case of the ammo can from 6" down to approx 3" from the bottom of the can.
That is a helluva nozzle.
The 1/2" plumbing inside the nozzle is for water drip system.
With air and steam wrapping the longish end of that 1/2" vaporization tube, and the focus of the heat right there … what’s the lifespan of that 1/2" tube?
Is this setup kinda a water filled, ( I forget the french name for it … tuyre? …) nozzle?
Burn zone would follow the air flow down and across the grate, so that grille has to be pretty stern stuff.
No inside hopper filtering, so I’d need to beef up the external filters.
Gas output heat is gonna be much higher. Need to switch the exterior plumbing to higher rated stuff?
Also don’t use the nozzle he showed in the video it melted away apparently. Use a nozzle like I quoted from his thread.
But the exit temps is also why I said maybe 10" above the gas exit. Will cool the gas down a little bit more. If you only plan to use charcoal you wouldn’t need to worry too much about tar creep.
Sorta, the part that protrudes in is just the 1/2" sch40. I think because it’s downdraft he hasn’t seen one melt away yet. They take to water drip really well. Something about how it transitions from 3/4 to 1/2 really breaks up the droplets and atomizes well.
I think he made it two part so it is easily changed, since he drills holes in the side of the 3/4" pipe to line up with the water drip tube.
Yes, thats what hard core charcoal junkie porn looks like…
Thats nearly a threefold increase in density. Oooh the possibilitys…
Are they easyer or harder to peletise thain wood in your machime?
Steve, thats exactly what l wuld use them. Since they wre all the same size, small and dense, a tiny downdraft hearth will make tons of gas and their density will extend hopper range 3 times! Just think about it, a 30 gal hopper will hold enaugh fuel for about 300 miles…
I surely never was called that before and probably for a good reason
We talk mass percent here, not volume percent. There still is 50g of starch per kilo of charcoal, no matter the volume. Well, if we want accuracy, 4.76% since we got 1050g of the mix as you started with 1000g charcoal and added the starch.
Well since my eagerness CAN overcome my common sense, I’d better stay grounded with empirical measurements.
Tested my diesel irrigation system again. Removed the fuel tank and replaced it with a metered bottle so I can kinda sorta measure fuel usage.
Vikyno RV70 engine using a RS 80 water pump to push a 4" pipe full about 30 meters.
First day I ran on diesel only to get a baseline under load. 20 minutes for 150 ml avg over seven measurements. 7.5ml per minute
Second day I put the gasifier inline. The morning portion of the test was confusing and disappointing. Fuel usage was only about 5-10% better than pure diesel.
About noon I slowed the engine rpm’s a touch and removed all of the air filter fittings attached to the air mix valve.
Notice the field full of Calabasa.
WHOA! major improvement. I adjusted the gas flow to full open on a 1" valve. I slowly shut off air until the engine began to just hint at knocking. Then backed off a half a turn. Ran like a champ.
The air flow was about 50% open on a similar valve.
54 minutes for 150ml avg. over 3 measurements. 2.7ml per minute. In short … 3 times longer run time for same amount of fuel.
Today, (the 7th), I tore down the RV and inspected the valves, piston, and cylinder. Just a touch of dry white ash.
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