So, you’re not a beer-guy then 
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I’ve learned to use percentages whenever possible.
Metric-SI-Imperial just drops out then.
Percentage you do have to realize each percent size/volume changes depending on whether you are working up or down from the base.
See here’s how.
G.K. slipped out that he overbored his Saab V-4 from 90mm pistons to 93mm pistons.
A 2.7% diameter increase.
Know his secret stroke then you could calculate his displacement increase in % or volume.
Street sneaky guys could stretch these out to ~2000cc with resultant need premium gasoline.
145-160 horsepower out of 122 cubic inches is not so much a stretch, eh.
S.U.
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He, he, i used to be a beer-guy, not counting the volume, just had the motivation to drink ALL beer there was.
Not drinking anymore… 
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Not remembering the “secret stroke” , but with these modifications it becomes a 1,8l (1815cc exactly, for the Saab-nerds) anyway this 145-160 hp isn’t much to write home about, but in percentage/ power increase it becomes much
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Yes Don, this the drawing ruler I use, I was to lazy to go down stairs into shop to get my mechanical ruler with them starting on the same end. It is marked down to 1/32, 1/64 of inches, and mil.Meters.
Bob
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Good Morning All,
I am reposting a recent exchange between MichaelG., J.O., and Al Frick. Read this one #447 and the next two: #448 and #449:
What MichealG and Al F. are saying (as predicted) gasoline needs more air oxygen to get close to stochiometric complete burning then the three much simpler with less carbons chains, woodgas fuel gases.
And who predicted this? In books by actual math’s using chemists. Four of those books here in the DOW library.
Using mole mass calculations they also say diesel fuel needs MUCH more air-oxygen than can ever just be atmospheric pressure drawn into an IC engines cylinder. Why exhaust turbocharging diesel engines makes then wake up and come lively alive.
And in the above three post exchange J.O. with two different gasoline fuel injected four cylinder vehicles; says he observes different results, one system to the next.
Different systems factors always able to skew the results.
This also reinforced by Mark Cunninghams better results after he tweaked with the air into his diesel/chargas hybrid water pumping system:
And read Tone next comment there. He does use math’s. Acknowledges only real world using can account for all of the variable factors.
On any of these forums favor the actual users and their results over the endless speculators. No matter how well read, or other life chapters experienced they may be.
Make woodgas your own Endeavor. With you; your own Expert.
Steve Unruh
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Steve, apart from what I think is the Volvo’s a crappy spray pattern at low fuel pressure, I think there’s a difference in, either the pressure regulator setup, or fuelpump response.
I use the same type pwm for both vehicle’s fuelpumps. The Mazda injectors seem to get very little fuel until close to 12V is reached. The Volvo’s injectors on the other hand, seem to get fuel pretty much in proportion to the voltage setting.
Both systems are return line systems and both are syphoning slightly, why I use extra swithes to kill the injectors.
Another difference is the Mazda’s MAF sensor seems to recognize when I squeeze the air mixing valve and the computer cuts back somewhat on gasoline, even though there’s no oxy sensor. Apart from that, any hybriding is done manually - air mixing valve vs pump voltage.
The Volvo has an oxy sensor but together with woodgas it seems unable to regulate injector timing within the range required for hybriding. But what’s even more confusing, is that by-passing the MAF (pulling air through a cold gasifier) doesn’t bother it at all. I remember Al @trikebuilder57 mounted a throttle body for a woodgas valve, to prevent air to sneak by when running gasoline. Same sneaking problems with my Mazda truck - easy accelerations required - it runs terribly lean on gaso-lean. On woodgas it’s like a Swiss clock - steady and accurate 
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Again, I will act as if I have reaped the knowledge of the whole world, and yet I will state a few thoughts … The petrol pump is supposed to work with the planned plants and supply fuel to the circulating line, and the regulator is responsible for stable pressure, which is a condition for well-dispersed fuel on the nozzle. The motor computer opens the nozzles according to the value of the vacuum sensor or mass flow meter at different length intervals, I would install a voltage divider or potentiometer to reduce this time to lie this value, so the motor computer would give short pulses to the nozzles. There are still quite a few sensors, but everyone else is making only minor corrections. 
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Tone, that has been my thinking for a long time. I just have never got to investigating how to do that.
Also, I’m told not all MAF sensors alter voltage, but frequency. I don’t know which I have.
Also, if voltage, does a low voltage mean low air flow or the other way around?
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Volvo probably has a filament flow meter where the signal ranges from some minimum voltage at minimum flow and up to 5V at max flow, copy the meter data and find the wiring diagram online. You connect the output signal via a 1k ohm potentiometer to ground, and the setting terminal continues to the motor computer.
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You both speak truths.
Indeed Tone “cheat”, “lie”, “fool” a primary order sensor is the way to go.
Later pre-1996 will sometimes if the system does not like the ‘relevancy’ of a primary sensor; then generate a fixed substitute value into the data stream. After 1996 this is quite common.
Ford has used sensor processed frequency output data for a long time on some. Barometric and manifold pressure sensors.
Some systems do have the MAF generate a variable frequency signal back to the engine control computer.
Test the output signal with a digital graphing VOM; or an oscilloscope.
There are cheater signal generators can be had for automotive sensor substituting.
Actually diagnostic purpose test tools.
S.U.
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2-8000 hz Chinese variable adjustable single channel model.
A used GM, Kent Moore dealership multichannel tool set.
S.U.
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This is part of something I have not understood from the begining, and I think in my first few days I brought it up somewhere? 3 methods of firing injector known to me. Mechanical, like older diesels and first gen efi gasoline. This done by fuel pump or lift pump by diesel, building to a set system pressure, when pressure is reached then some mechanical process to manually fire each injector in time. Super duper basic, no fuel no fire, no fuel pump no fire. Then later systems, electric over hydraulic? Fuel pump comes up to pressure, pressure sensor tells computer all clear ( which in turn shuts down fuel pump voltage untill pressure drops and pumps comes back online) computer sends signal to open each injector it’s allotted amount of time. Same conditions, no pump no pressure means no boom boom. Later yet, electric over electric, which is I am “assuming” the Mopar no car crowd…electric pump on, period. Run full time with key on, when pressure comes up in the rails then relay opens and return line engages sending excess fuel back to tank. On demand of throttle positions and key on engine cranking injectors will trigger, regardless of how much pressure is available the injector will fire and give whatever fuel the available pressure will allow to flow, low pressure less fuel, atomized less then ideal, in poor spray pattern or maybe even droplets. In these scenarios each type of fired off injector would change how gasoline would run, and demanded air flow. My carburetor “can” hybrid, very poorly. Really no point air mix so open very little woodgas flow is being used. When fuel pump on air valve must be wide open anything over engine idle, or total loss of power even with full woodgas flow, over rich. On petroleum both air valves wide open to run with good power. Dirty carb and poor fuel flow? One air valve wide open, one halfway closed. Less fuel flow needing less air flow to burn correctly. Each system of injector would change those air settings, especially during hybrid use. Notice Wayne’s v10, hybrid by switch reinstate on or off, and adjust in-between. No change to air mix. This makes me guess the later system, injectors fire with whatever pressure is behind them, low voltage, low flow, no change in air mix. More voltage more pressure more fuel delivered, then computer take over and 02sensor override to back off fuel, still no air mix change needed
Rambling thoughts 
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No-No. Pretty good thoughts.
Most before ~2010, do NOT use electric feedback fuel pressure sensors. Came with the then new idea variable speed fuel pumps.
And; at least three other systems out there a fellow can run into.
Robert Bosch CIS (constant injection spray). 100 psi. More mechanical than electrical. Ha! You look it up. Late 60’s, and 70’s German cars brought into the US and Canada.
The GM V-6 and V-8 “Central Port Fuel Injection”, “Central Sequential Fuel Injection” (Spider tube systems) have end of tube pressure opened spray nozzles. They stick. They can dribble.
And good old 12-16 psi single and double Throttle body injectors. My work-on favorite. Simple easy.
Ha! Of course a fellow could really stretch out rare with 50-early 60’s Mercedes true gasoline mechanical injection. Inline plungers pumping.
Chrysler’s bad failed 70’s spray bar system. Kinnda’ based on the USA WWII war aircraft fueling systems. More mechanical than electric.
S.U.
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For anyone that may have a B2200 fall into their lap and want a compression increase
The B2000 pistons are the same diameter as the B2200, but the B2000’s have flat top Pistons where the B2200 has dished pistons to reduce and get to their goal 8.5~8.7:1 compression ratio. Swapping just the pistons alone gives you a compression boost.
Not sure if a B2200 head on a B2000 block will increase compression though, I’ll have to look further. I do know that some other parts swaps are necessary to go to the B2200 head. I’m currently trying to find a company that specializes in thinner head gaskets for my Ute to give it just that Nth degree more. I think if I had the head shaved I would then need to play with the belt timing. The engine runs below center mark operating temperature year round so I’m not concerned with overheating and blowing a thinner gasket.
Neither engine is Interference from what I understand. The B2000 is a square bore and stroke, the B2200 has a slightly longer stroke than it’s bore. That’s probably where it found the additional 200ccs.
I think if this engine ever goes total kaput and I can’t find an I6 to go in there I’ll hunt for a 2.2 and swap pistons. Easy peasy.
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Marcus, I’m not sure if there’s a question in there for me or not
Anyways, my Rabbit had the Bosch constant spray SteveU mentioned. Mechanical AFM, which push a plunch altering the fuel pressure. Injectors were designed to handle a wide pressure range. In my opinion a perfect system for woodgas hybriding. Also, mine was equipped with an oxy sensor. It did a very good job regulating fuel pressure when hybriding. The more I opened the air mix, the more gasoline was delivered and vice versa.
The “constant rail pressure” systems I’m running now have mechanical pressure regulators (ball and spring" + a small membran connected to the intake to compensate for intake vacuum pressure differential. As Tone mentioned, the injectors are designed for a certain pressure and don’t handle lowering the pressure well.
Removing the air-tube (MAF-sensor) when burning the intake starves both my engines, but disconnecting the MAF-plug restores the fuel delivery. It will run rich, but it will run. Can be somewhat compensated for with the pump’s PWM during the procedure.
@Tone, I will certainly look into the MAF-sensor pot-solution at some point. Also, I need to get me an A/F-ratio guage. All I have right now is the idiot-light turning on if I’ve been outof range for too long.
Well, that’s my rambling for now. We’ve got 6 inches of snow over night and still snowing, so I’ve got nothing better to do.
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Lol Methanol! There is a picture of my methanol burner. I am jumping it off so I can go around with a four wheel drive.
Methanol is a special use case. It’s best used in a dry environment. Tom does not live in a dry environment. He lives on a peninsula jutting out into Lake Michigan. Methanol will very happily suck up humidity until it’s useless as a fuel.
Non-ethanol premium, 100 octane snowmobile gas, or aviation fuel would work better in a humid environment, and would be cheaper. I paid $4.80 a gallon for a 55gallon drum in April 2020. I just ordered another barrel yesterday, and will let know what it is now.
Methanol is the methyl in methylester. For one gallon of methanol I can make four gallons of winter fuel and six gallons of summer fuel. Then add the used motor oil to stretch it even further.
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aka home made diesel 911
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AKA methylester with a basic bias or methylester with a bias towards fatty acids. One is good down to -20f the other is good to 40f
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I have no experience with Methanol as a fuel Bruce. It interests me because it is easy to make and I have watched video’s of guys claiming significant power gains from their methanol injection systems. It is also recommended as a component of black diesel as you stated. I would very much like to know how you use it. By the way. I’ve seen the relative humidity get down to 50 per cent a couple of times. Almost had to run for the moisturizer. I guess your Lake Superior air on your peninsula is drier. 
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