JO's gasified 92 Volvo

I’ve tried driving off with open lid too, when i stopped to close the lid i suddenly noticed how the thick smoke started to “pull back” down the bin, just in a matter of seconds i pulled my face away, before it went BOOM, chunks raining down. The worst “puff” i remember having.
:laughing:

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This is very interesting my restiction opening to my nozzles are 9 3/4" .
I use my drop box temperature reading just before going into my cooling header. 400 to 450°f not pushing it hard.
Bob

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Obviously the wife was not along to remind you. And do not even think of blaming her if she was with you. You WOOD be in the DOW Dog House.
Bob

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I’ve never done that before but i lost a lid once had to strap a bag over the hole to get it home.

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Bob, those are the temps I saw to start with. Sometines even lower.
Looks like we’re running pretty much the same internal dimentions, except the size of the choke, gasifier housing and heat exchanger.
The temp reading went up some already when I mounted the trunk lid on top of the probe.
I will probably try a bigger choke at some point. 4 inches is small enough to restrict the hopper vacum to 4-5 inches no matter how hard I’m pulling. A 3:1 ratio becomes 6:1 pulling hard.

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When I have to add some Dino fuel I also watch the air fuel gauge and have to close the wood gas valve a little to allow more air to the engine. Have you tried that JO?

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Mike, it runs just fine with the woodgas valve fully open, air-mix fully open and gasoline fully on. Brobably on the rich side, but I don’t have an a/f guage to confirm.
That’s how I pullstart the gasifier - gently pulling only a few inches on the gasifier. With a manual, I can then kill the pump and start pulling harder with the momentum as soon as I’m up to speed. That’s usually enough to get back on 100% wood power.

I guess these injectors fail to produce a fine spray with limited fuel pressure. The Mazda has no problem hybriding smoothly, even with the lowest voltage setting on the pump.

But to tell you the thruth, with the Volvo I haven’t had a reason to experiment much with hybriding. However, today I discovered only switching on the injectors (no pump), was enough to overcome some hesitation at accelleration. That’s something. Maybe with time and a some experimentation I will learn more about what works and what doesn’t on this particular rig.

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The Ranger is the same. The more gasoline I add, the more air it needs. I always run with wg valve wide open, on 100% wood the air valve is open about half way.

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How much do you have down to the grate now from restriction?

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Hi Jan, I am right at 6" from restiction to the grate according to my notes that I just found in my book on the last setting change. From the top of the restiction to the 12 nozzles is 9 1/2". My nozzles are 5 1/2" down into the firetube from the top. This is to help protect my firetube top plate from cracking like it did in the other original firetube that was 3 " from the top. Just above my nozzles is a blast furnace now. With my heat shields in place my fire tube is 11 1/2" in diameter. With 12 nozzles instead of 10. I feel I can make more heat in the hot lobe reduction zone area above the restiction opening of 7 1/4" with the 12 nozzles. At the grate I have had the temperature reading of 1730°f this is very hot and using my rocket fuel mixture of dry charcoal and wood on a hot summer day 95°f . Normally 1350 to 1550 depending on outside temperatures like summer or winter.
Be careful with the rocket fuel mixture of dry charcoal and really dry wood 5% moisture (hard cherry wood) it warped my heat shields and I had to remove, repair and reinforce them.
Bob

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JO What does “csa” stand for??? TomC

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TomC, it means"tvärsnittsyta". An English short for Cross Sectional Area.

Had even more snow yesterday, but it has compacted down to 4-6 inches again. The sun is shining this morning. Hoping for severeal degrees above freezing. In a really good year we’ve been able to start plant things 20st of April. No way it’s happening this year.

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I would have kept the old one if it’s that proven!

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The old one would make a good wood gasifer car.
Bob

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Son-in-law works on Volvo development in Gothenburg. I keep telling him they made things sturdy back then - nowdays they hire office people to calculate how weak it’s possible to build without it falling apart :smile:

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The 740 will probably still last longer than the new S60.

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I actualy worked in one of those labs. We tested lights for a prestige German auto manufacturer. The lights went in a special chamber wgere heat, cold and humidity wuld change and the lights had to withstand a certain amount of hours, but more importantly they had to NOT withstand more :smile:

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Kristijan, were you involved in positioning the lightbulbs as well? Nowdays it seems at least battery, breather and radiator has to be removed to replace a bulb :smile:

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Newer Camero you have to pull the entire front bumper assembly just to change the fog light bulb :angry:

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