Hi Tone, here is a old type of valve lubrication system, from war time woodgas period.
I was called stuff like Top-oiler, and the advertising gave it almost magical advantages, there was special Top-oil sold in small bottles (in practice just oil diluted with kerosene)
I have better pic’s of the whole system, but can’t find them at the moment.
These systems was abandoned later in the woodgas era, because it became illegal to buy oil that couldn’t be recycled.
I can really see the benefits of this, and maybe try it in future, maybe with a oil/ethanol mix, both lubrication and dissolving tar?
Not that i plan to make tar, but i am careless and lazy
Hello Goran, this is definitely a good idea that brings more benefits, the engine will be well lubricated, the valves will seal better, if you have excess used oil, you will use it usefully, because with the help of wood gas, combustion will be complete, the consumption of this lubricating oil depends on the setting and is about 1 liter per 500-1000km, it can be more. I installed a small copper tube in the throttle area, so that the vacuum sucked the oil when the throttle opened slightly…
I was thinking about how to easily determine the actual engine power, but I don’t have a real solution, … well, we can still measure something if we have a tachometer and a vacuum gauge, which is installed directly on the intake manifold, so that we have a measurement of how much gas/air mixture the engine cylinders are “filled” with. If the pressure is close to 1 Bar, this means that the engine is taking in the full amount of mixture and should achieve a torque of approximately 55 Nm/1 liter of working volume, but if the gauge shows a lower pressure, the engine is partially loaded and will not reach this torque and full power.
Hi Tone, i have somewhere a mathematic formula how to calculate engine power, by driving uphill, using a inclinometer to know the degrees of incline.
Then driving, on highest possible gear, until no acceleration or deceleration, this will give a pretty good reading, needs to drive more than one time to get a average result, and no wind, or other cars disturbing.
This should give results close to +/-5hp if done correctly.
Hi Jan , my woodgas truck has broke down so many times on trips long and short . But get this it has not been because of wood gas driving , it been on gasoline. Welcome to DOW. Lol
That’s right. 30+ yo = no road tax. 50+ yo = no tax and no inspection. Both my woodburners are tax free, but still up for inspection every other year. Insurance is about $100 a year each. Fuel cost ???
I think you should get a 1975 Chevy C10 1/2 ton truck. They make aftermarket complete chassis for them. (I think one came with a entire new drivetrain). You drop the cab and bed on them. Granted it will be expensive but essentially it is almost a brand new truck, that looks old and rides a lot smoother or goes faster (since a lot of them are made for hotrods) and you don’t have to deal with inspections.
Since it will rust out, you can replace all the sheet metal with stainless.
The kicker is, your whole drivetrain can be customized for woodgas, and you will be able to beat Tone’s tractor racing.
If you are going to do the whole frame replacement, you just need a cab and a bed and a few other parts, which means you need a junker with a vin so you can get a title.
No C10 junkers to be found. It seems they have all been restored. Whenever people spend $10,000+ in shipping alone - to get US vehicles over here - they don’t let them just sit and rot.
One would think that the Russians would be producing half and three quarter ton pick up trucks for the European market. They have ample gasoline. I have seen video’s of their GAZ vans. They look really nice.
I don’t think I’ve ever seen a GAZ irl - a few LADA cars in the 80s, but that’s about it when it comes to Russian vehicles. Oh, and 4wd Nivas of course. Not many either, but it has probably been the most popular Russian vehicle over the years.
Asking $2,800 USD, or best offer. Or trade for value.
This is actually a C20 3/4 ton. 16.5" heavy duty wheels. 80% life left tires.
A CHEYENNE model. Means more chrome; more instruments. The bed chrome strips are loose in the back, inside.
Pretty much all original. But of course decades aged.
Some lower panels edges rust:
Most are at least twice that price.
