JO, of course it’s your fault that I have something to write about, and now Goran. 
I faced the same problem of backfires with my Subaru, it happened at low revs and if I opened the throttle all the way. In such a case, the ignition is only a few degrees before the peak, because the centrifugal regulator does not increase the ignition time, and the vacuum diaphragm is released and reduces the ignition time. You can imagine that there is a full amount of mixture in the cylinder and if ignition occurs, high pressure is created. The gas and air mixture is relatively dry and does not lubricate the valve seats, which means that they do not seal 100%, so the flame can escape and ignite the mixture in the intake manifold. I then installed a valve lubrication system in the Subaru and these problems practically disappeared.
valve lubrication when using LPG,… a simple system, also interesting for water dosing, or for lubricating flaps and valves when using wood gas, any oil is good, even used, it is good to dilute it slightly with diesel fuel
You are right Tone!
Already during world war there was “top-lube kits” available for woodgas cars, was said to reduce backfiring, i have never thought about it until you, professor Tone bring it up.
I post a pic of one of those old kits later.
I almost forgot, I made a video on the trip home after the meetup and it turns out to be pretty much undeniable proof that it is impossible to overtake a woodgas vehicle. Per is not letting us pass 
Yeah, that was close to 70 mph and no more woodgas power to add At that speed wind drag is getting very important. Only if I had been able to let go of the box on the roof I may have been able to pass
110 km/h requires about 30 hp (rough estimate for such a vehicle), the Volvo 2.3 l engine rotates at about 2700 rpm at this speed. Is your system working optimally?
A wood gas engine should reach 5kW per 1l of working volume at 1000 rpm, if it works optimally. Now we can calculate how much power your Volvo would develop under the above conditions…
multiply the working volume of 2300 and the engine speed of 2700, divide the result by a factor of 200 and we get 31 kW.
Maybe I underestimated the power of your car at the beginning, maybe it works closer to 30 kW than 30 hp…
You probably think I already look like some kind of sports commentator…
I admire those of you who dare to drive so far from home, I’m worried that the car will break down when I’m 50-60km from home.
Not at all
It has a lot of compromises built into it, with ease of fabrication, ease of maintence and my normal driving habits in mind. My goal has never been to maximise top end power, but rather to be able to replace as much gasoline as possible in everyday driving, at the lowest cost and effort possible. Still, there’s no lack of power 99% of the time - and if I really need it, I can add a few drops of gasoline with just a flip of a switch.
Jan,
Same here. About the only time I carry my cell phone is when I’m driving the CharCar, but it really only left me stranded once and that was when the timing belt broke. I guess I’m just a bit too timid. Two other times I had to switch over to gasoline, due to too much moisture restricting the filter.
Steve
It was nice to hear that I’m not alone, I should probably practice riding longer distances, but I’m not that social.
Jan, it’s just to start planning for next years meeting in Tidaholm, we want to meet you there
And remember: if you have the gasoline option, your car is double reliable, if woodgas fail, drive on gasoline, if gasoline system fails- drive on wood 
So far in my life I have never had the opportunity to see a car running on wood gas, not even at Kristjan’s, apart from my Subaru I have tried it on gas from Fergi… I can’t wait to have time to convert the Mazda… I hope that in the coming years we will manage to meet somewhere in Europe, or we will have to extend the journey to Sweden. I am practicing “driving” on wood with Fergi, today it worked continuously for about 4 hours with a load of 15-20 kW - a stone crusher, this power would be enough for a speed of about 80 km/h…
Just make sure there is minimal play in fergies steering before you reach those kind of speeds 
Yes, and if the automatic transmission breaks down, you can’t tow the car any further, and it’s too heavy to tow on a trailer with a regular driver’s license.
If something else breaks down, you have to wait 1-2 weeks for parts from the US, hmm.
I have to admit that I’m a bit of a coward and not an optimist.
But maybe I should start practicing driving a little further, I have a spare car now, and it would be REALLY fun to meet you all.
Well, you have a point there Jan, about the reason i sold my S10, the auto trans would “live it’s own life” from time to time, and everytime i found a trouble source and happy as a pig in shit, fixed it, it was the same some days later. (That and rust)
Intelligent as i am, i sold it to my father-in-law, living close by, which lead to i still had the technical support on it, without using it. 
But there is something if you could “relax” in a car, don’t think about all troubles that MAY happen, just drive happily, some cars just don’t let you relax…
Interesting Tone, my car has 193hp and should have a top speed with petrol of 177kmh.
It does about 110 - 120 kmh with gengas, can you calculate how many hp I have left with gengas?
I think I’m a bit weird, but I get more and more worried about things the older I get, I think a lot of it is because I don’t understand automatic transmissions, and how long they work
Jan, your S10 has a working volume of 4.3 l, as far as I was able to find out, it operates at a speed of 120 km/h with approximately 2200 rpm, which would mean that it would reach a power of 47 kW (64 hp) on wood gas in optimal operation.
Depending on the type of vehicle, the S 10 needs at least 40 kW for a speed of 120 km/h, probably more, if we also take into account the wear of the engine and gearbox, your system meets the standards!!!
If you wanted to achieve a higher speed on the road, you would have to drive in a lower gear with higher revs, because for higher speeds you need more engine torque, which you cannot achieve on wood gas, because wood gas only allows a torque of approximately 55 - 60 Nm / liter of working volume (47 kW … 2200 rpm ---- 215Nm of torque, this means that the 4.3 l engine operates with 50Nm / liter) 
The older I get the more convinced I am that electronics was only introduced into machines to make them more difficult to keep working except toward planned obsolescence. Other than maybe a couple miles to the gallon loss in fuel economy, an old GM powerglide or Chrysler torqueflite 727 will still be working when the world breaths it’s last breath. If you want to go manual then the Chrysler A833 will still be running in the afterlife. Same with the Muncie M22 rock crusher.
Thanks Tone, so I lose about 2/3 of my hp with gengas?
That should say that my system is not working optimally, shouldn’t I get about 50% of the effect?