Yeah maybe if you use it on both sides that might work.
Yeah this is probably the cheapest i can get this sort of material ,if i silicon it into place when assembling it should be ok , its very wide so will cut it in half as my flange is only about 1 inch wide .
There you go that looks promising. Yeah just get a can of contact cement in spray form. Thats what we do and it makes sticking it on a flange a breeze.
I am thinking that coming out of the ammo can into a water filled barrel with some coils of hose in it before going into a filter would knock those gas temps down without much extra work or material.
Maybe if you are having issues with that. I did not have any issues at all that single filter knocked the heat right out. The gas was practicaly ambient by the time it hit the ammo box. You can see the temps I took on the wood gas run.
I would not go to that extreme. Too complex for me. Way simpler to just add one or two more barrel filters.
Ok finnished all the fine details. I revised the water tank in hopes we can mount it and sitll fit it back in the box the barrels ship in. I figured out how to release the grate without need to remove the ash bin. There is a shaft housing to add the automated spindle shaft to automate the grate. Revised the flare cup a bit for better fitment and will cut the model brand in the shell and the agitator vibrator will also mount to it. Then cut the hole for the clean out and designed the door system. There is a nice big port openning to suck out all the woodgas goodness from the unit.
Hi Matt (again ) lol I have another question regarding the water cooled nozzle ,unless i missed you mentioning it in the video’s, when completed and screwed into the 1 inch union how far inside or out side of the union is the stainless steel pipe ?
I would love this nozzle design of yours to be able to hold up for hundreds of running hours in this configuration , so if you are doing any maintenance and have a clear shot of the nozzle after a good run i would love to see some pics when u have a chance .
Many thanks Dave
The Nozzle extends out roughly 3/4. Im dont know how you can extend it, we have not tried it. I think the longer you extended the more water you can process. If it melts just cut the melted portion off.
I have not seen a nozzle degrade yet but Im not taking our DFX apart just to take pictures
On this latest proto I installed a shorter nozzle and it terminates at the end of the coupling. However I do plan to extend out to center the oxidation zone in either mode. The oxidation zone is biasing towards the primary jet. Just need to tune the length a bit to get it centered.
If not mistaken this looks like a big box of parts for a 2024 DXF-10 Gasifier. I guess you all will have to wait until I open it to find out!!
Ok ok ok, here is whats in the box. I know you all been wating all day huh?? lol just messin
Yeah $550 bucks right there. It dont look like much but it is what is.
Edit: Oops just realized I didnt order the hopper lid latches. Thats going to add another 40 bucks. Those things are 13 / 14 bucks a piece and there are three of them.
Hey Matt,
I have been hovering in the shadows for a while now. I just finished my Ammo can gasifier with first successful flair and night flair. i am waiting on parts for my gen to give it a run. I was wondering if the new HF gasifier could run on pellets also?
Welcome to DOW and great to hear you have success with the ammo box unit. I often wonder how many of you have built that thing. lol
I dont think pellets will fare well especially in raw form. Fuel size must be correct in order for the fuel to work. Pellets are small and dense and will not leave volume gaps for air to take up. So there will be more wood fuel being turned into pyrolysis gas than what the oxidation zone can process to simplify. Basically a portion of the pyrolysis gas will slip by carrying tar into the reduction zone and passing thru it.
You maybe be able to mix it with lump charcoal though. But until someone tries it I dont know.
Wow what a fantactic build. I think this one you built is better than the one I built. lol.
Yeah if you go to the latest video I did on the new nozzle; it will work better in that unit as well. You might encounter some water flow issues with water surface tension. Something I was just learning about as I was doing those videos.
Oh yeah you got the bug now! You will soon be a regular here on DOW.
Hello Darrell H welcome to -Drive on wood-or-DOW. what MATT said you got to have the BUG NOW- nice flame from your ammo can gasifier.!.
Thanks for the reply. The size of the pellets was a thought of mine also, but being so new to this i thought it best to ask the experts. I also wanted to say you have the most amazing ideas in gasification. You must never sleep.
Welcome Darrell. Very nice build. I am always interested in ways that the average person can produce useable gas and I have been recently thinking about building one of Matts ammo box units. Now I know I’m going to.
Success!! This clean out / grate chamber I think will be the most difficult part of the new machines to produce. Other than some fine tuning I need to make it worked. I just need to enlarge the can shell to fit the flanges a little better. This first one was a bit loose and then the door could be rolled a little tighter. The door needs to be slight under rolled for a proper seal as we learned to do this before. But this makes for a better sealing door system as it sort works like a hose clamp when you pull the latch tight.
I didn’t get much sleep, and I just looked at the pictures, and I was like wtf. Is that supposed to be forge burner or a kiln?
Ash bin for the new model.