Unless "SEO Executive"s post is about uniting Carbon and Oxygen, it does NOT belong here!
4 Likes
way cool âŚ
Matt we investigated blue ion in Hawaii for a lithium battery bank option. Great tech; We became a dealer but still have not found the right client for one. Have you thought of maybe a reconditioned pack out of a prius or something similar? You have the knowhow to reconfigure it and they seem quite reasonable. When we change out lead acid banks lots of them still have life left just not as much as the owners would prefer. We scrap them so a scrap deep cycle bank might be worth it for a short term solution. Great to see day in day out usage on a unit.
Cheers David
4 Likes
So something like this? Can I just buy these modules, and create individual banks near 48 Volt. From the listing they sit at 7.6 Volt so that would get me to around 53 volts pr bank. But I read some where on another listing in a question asked about solar and they replied that they can not be charged in parallel. So if I had 7 of these modules in series to create say (4) of these 53 volt banks I could not hook those up in parallel and charger them?
Both the AIMâs and the Schneider support charging Lipo batteries. The AIMs I have charges between 48 up to 60 volts on the open top led acid setting. Once it hits 60 volts it goes into float mode.
If I could make these modules work this might be the way to go and they are pretty cheap at 39 bucks a pop.
2 Likes
I found these articles:
https://transportevolved.com/2015/05/19/toyota-repurposes-hybrid-batteries-for-off-grid-battery-storage-system/
They talk about how they did the rewire and it involves a hell of a lot of parallel strings so it is possible. Donât ask me but you seem like you need yet another project! Way above my pay grade!
Cheers
2 Likes
Haha, yeah at some point Im going to take on development of the edison battery. There has got to be a way to build them cheaper. I want to partical coat aluminum plates with nickle and Iron. Need to find a graphite coating or something similar to bond the paritcal layer. Plan to build this similar to the HHO dry cell.
Ok scratch the aluminum KOH will react with it, so Ill use SS instead.
1 Like
Do you ever sleep? There was an old guy on the yahoo 12 volt group who says he made Edisons with sheets of nickel and iron in 50 gallon plastic drums. Each cell would be massive!
2 Likes
LOL Yeah I pretty much work from the time I get up to the time I hit the hay.
1 Like
Well apparently I took about 5 years worth of steps backards on this thing, stumbled that entire way haha. After dealing with some pretty bad tar events, the last one I had enough. So off with de head!! I installed a grease fitting in it so I can grease the intake valve LOL. Havent tried that yet, I went ahead with some other mods to bring this thing up to current tech. This has to do with the cross flow grate design, I cant implement the top section on this, but I simply added a core plate to the grate. I learned some things about flows, even though we have automation on this and keep flows steady, what was happening is the grate was too passive. So the combustion could not keep up with reduction falling out. It was worsened when I went to the smaller restriction, I started seeing raw pellets in the ash clean outs. Stumped for a bit, thought it out and that is the conclusion I think. So this plate will choke this up while creating more a cross flow, this should be all good as fuel consumption should improve. Dont want to jinks myself and say its not making any tar, but the smoke is gone at the intake and is not accumulating in the air intake valve body. So we will see what happens, I kinda want to make some tar and try out that grease fitting; call me crazy 
1 Like
Well I got what I wished for as soon as I finished that last post I went out to check it and there was some smoke again and some tar accumulating in the intake valve. I let it charge up the batteries and shut it down. Checked the filter trap and tar with a consistency of maple syrup come drooling out. Gave a quick gas wash but wasnt enough. Went to fire it off again later and dropped the push rod. So that justified getting a grease gun, so I went out and got one. I gave it few shots of grease, still had to work the valve some but it freed up fairly quick. So I actually want to run just the way it is, so I can test this further. Ill grease the valve just prior to shut down let it work in some and shut down. If this works then this might come as standard with modification to the heads and an auto greaser on the Evolution and possibly a manual system on the other generators we offer.
Has anyone found a solvent for tar?
I know gasoline, soap and water, alcohol barely touch it.
3 Likes
While taring up a tire today I got a little tar on my hands . A little bleach took the tar right off.
Also it is about the only thing I have found that will take oak stain off my hands .
I keep a small bottle of bleach in my dakota .
5 Likes
If I get tar on my hands I use âmotor compartment washâ or what ever that´s called over there. Can be sprayed on clothes before washing as well.
Also, I know Kristijan is using acetone. The main component in nail polish remover (maybe wrong forum 
)
3 Likes
Brake fluid destroys this stuff, but dont use it on your hands. Also Cascade dishwasher detergent deleted makes industrial strength cleaners. There a reason its only sold as dishwasher detergent and the reason it gets your dishes clean.
1 Like
Its hard to see in there, but this is the crude greaser. So far its worked, one shut down complete and re fire with no valve sticky.
It would not really be all that hard for us to do on new engines when we get them. If this continues to work this could really make the machines bullet proof.
4 Likes
Well this has been three times shut down, cool off and restart with out issue. Ill keep using this every time and see how it goes. But the gasser is also starting to produce less tar, Im seeing more condensate drop out of the dryer now. So thats a good thing, but Ive seen this gasifier do this before and then return to tar production. So Ill keep monitoring it and hopefully it will clean up.
4 Likes
So ive seen enough with this grease system. All engines we offer will get this, we will start out with a manual set up and later Ill work on an auto grease system. I have not performed a gasoline valve wash since Ive installed this and its worked every time. The gasifier is performing a lot better but Im still seeing some tar in the dryer trap. After the machine has ran for a bit it performs quite well, but this takes around 30 to 40 minutes of run time. Stubborn little bugger!! Never the less this Predator is not very tolerant to any tar unlike the Kohler on my JD I think I could have just dumped tar in the gas tank and it would have ran happily. haha. There are two versions of the 420 cc Predator. One has a valve cover with a single bolt that removes the valve cover, this is the good engine for woodgas. The one I have has six bolts that hold on the valve cover, and has a less desired valve train design. I hope they are not transitioning to this engine but even so if we install the greaser, this will help eliminate any issue.
I took a look at the Predator Twin we are working on in the next gen Evolution and we can easily add this. The Kohler with liquid cooling I need to investigate yet, the liquid cooling may not allow for this modification.
6 Likes
Will you offer a grease kit for old builds?
1 Like
I can get you a parts list and you can do this yourself Its really not that hard to do.
4 Likes
I have parts on order for what will hopefully work and be how things will be. I have some 1/16 NPT compression fitting with 1/8" copper tubing on order. This tubing should easily form and bend to a remote fitting location with the grease fitting installed. I have these parts ordered for the twin so there is a tee fitting to combine them. Other than that fitting the single cylinder engines will have the same parts.
All you would have to do pull off the head and then drop out the intake valve. You will need to find a location you can drill through to hit the bore of the valve stem somewhere in the middle of the length of the bore. Start out with a small drill 1/8" and drill through and then send a drill that is sized for the 1/16 tap, dont go all the way through with this one but far enough to drive that tap in about half its threaded length. Once you have the hole drilled drive the tap in and then install the compression fitting. If you have a tight space you can simple get a 1/16 nipple to extend this out and get a couple to install the fitting. Then simply install the copper tuning in the fitting and route to a convenient place that you can skirt some grease in there.
You may need to debur the bore for the valve after this. You can do this carefully with a slightly smaller drill bit doing so by hand or a small rat tail file. But you really need to be careful you dont scuff up this bore. If you know the bore size and have few bucks you can get a reamer but again this is something that should be done by hand carefully.
For a few hours of work, if that; this mod is definitely worth the efforts to never have to worry about tar again. If we have good fuel the machine should never make tar but that potential is always a posibility for us, especially with new users. Ive see it all lol and for us at least this will get our new users through learning and to engine running faster. The machines also need to burned in for quite a few hours before they will make the cleanest gas. This again will aid to getting to that point with confidence.
4 Likes