Tom, I used Paint for a while for downsizing and it works ok, just a lot of steps and you have to know where Paint is sending the downsized pics. I can send you a small tutorial if you’d like. Then someone suggested changing the settings on my camera so I got out the manual eventually and was able to change the output size to meet DOW’s parameter. Perhaps you could do the same if your camera has that option. Yes, it took me 3 days to locate my manual, lol. Pepe
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My 20 $ digital camera i bought from wholesaler,had a bloch in the flont cristal screan but it has no efect on the pic,as stated ,i bought a couple more for around 10$ just in case,it seems too work good after loading it on my big computor,it then loads too dow with out any trouble.Never tryed paint for down sizeing.HAPPY TRAILING,SWEM
Hi Tom,
I went ahead and posted a how to on using Paint in the off-topic section. How to resize photos using Paint, Hope this helps, from one old dog to another.
Pepe
WELDING; This should go under “welding general” but I could not find that as a subject. After coming home from Argos I wanted to lower the height of my gasifier. I cut 6" out of the drums and all the heat exchanger pipes. When I put it back together the 55 gal drum leaked badly. I filled it with water and ground off where it was leaking and then I kept blowing through. I went back to basics and checked every thing on the welder== all was set correctly. I took a scrap piece of barrel and shined it up with the grinder and tried to weld it. I couldn’t get the arch to start with out spitting and sputtering. Finally the weld would start but no matter what I did, it would over heat and blow out. I tried every thing over the next couple of weeks. ( started by watching Mr. Wayne) Tried to borrow a welder from a friend, but he went to the hospital. I call a high school buddy who was at one time the vice president of a welding company. Today I found Hobart on the net and called their help line. After a discussion with a fine gentleman, he gave me some things to try.
My problem was TOO LONG AN EXTENSION CORD OUT OF TOO SMALL GAGE WIRE. I am so embarrassed because I have been on here telling new people how to make good welds. I now have to go back and practice to learn how to weld with a properly working welder.TomC
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Good information Tom!
Old age is getting to my mind. As you know, I had welding problems that I thought I corrected by checking the voltage at a wall recepticle and I use that for everything. I move anything that needs welding near to that recepticle. I was welding on a drum. To check the welds, I turned off the shop lights, and with my head inside the drum, went around the outside with a drop light. After finding several pin holes ( of course) I laid the light on my table and hooked up the welder. When I struck an arc, the drop light went out. WHAT? I know the recepticle is ok under no load. I struck an arc again and the light went out again. Hmmmmm!!! What now, the drop light cord is to long??? I shut the welder down and took off my helmet. TADA!!! Dummy!!! The automatic helmet was darkening ALL the light in the room, including the drop light. That is what you get when you get paranoid.TomC
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Good luck welding new projects,i have mine fixed for now, it needed beter brakers in garodge any way and the one on the pole was looseing contact from oxidation,i moved that braker over one notch i had left over,and it tighten the conection for now, the trailer braker conection is fine out too the pole. IT sure made the little welder nearly stop poping,only thing i may try next is hanging some dc caps acrost the bridge, some are saying that helped stop the poping.
My plasma cutter dims the florescent lights when I cut.
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HY tom C. am looking at your heat duck plumming on the back of your blue truck,is that actualy part of your heat exchanger/cooling area before the cooling rack.it seems it would burst open with a puff back if it was.?Thanks
Yes Kevin, that is a counter flow heat exchanger. The hot gases come out of the gasifier and goes into a 3 in. exhaust pipe material that makes several trips up and down before it enters the cyclone filter and then dumps into the 4 in. cooling pipes around the bed of the truck. The 3 in. exhaust pipe then has a 4 in. furnace type tubing around it. The air comes into the furnace piping just before the cyclone. It follows the hot gas piping back until just before the point where the piping picks up the hot gas. There is a T there that allows the heated air to then go to the manifold to feed the nozzles I have a thermocouple measuring the temperature of the air going to the manifold, and another that measures the temperature of the gas AFTER the cyclone. I find the air going into the manifold is about 50 deg. cooler than the gas coming out of the cyclone.
I believe your concern is that I am using furnace tubing. Where the hot air goes is solid exhaust pipe. The opening to between the nozzle manifold and the hot air supply line is only 2 1/2 in dia. The pressure coming through that hole is very low compared to the force of the pressure on the spring loaded hopper lid. I suppose there is some puff back, but it has never blown the furnace pipe apart in anyway. Always the lid.TomC
HI TOM C,i had no problem with the way you built it, i was just trying too see what i was looking at, I see what your saying,you do have a preheat area, Thanks for the verification,Neat design.
Technicians / woodgasers; I have a "94 Silverado with a 4.3 TBI engine on wood gas. This week I had to take the TBI apart and clean it. When I get it back together, including the air cleaner, I run the engine and put my had over the horn of the air cleaner to see if it is leaking air. Normally when the engine slows to just about dieing, then I remove my hand and assume it is air tight. Today I thought I would go all the way and see if I could kill the engine. To my surprise, just before stalling it picked up speed and stumbled around until it had a good idle again, with my hand on the horn. I could hear a whistling sound. I assumed the IAC had kicked in. I took my hand off the horn and the engine died-- assuming to lean of a mixture because of the IAC setting.
If the above is correct, my question is---- when running on wood gas should I disconnect the IAC because it is by passing the effects of my “air control” valve on my “mixer”??? I normally run with the “air control” completely closed. I would like to have control of the air by using my “air control” rather than the computer, although the computer seems to be doing a good job.TomC
Interesting thoughts Tom. I like the way you think. Maybe computer controlled air mixing is in our future.
HI tom you could put a switch in between,too turn off when on wood gas and try it,i allways unplug my iac.they over idle the motor when not nesisary when on older astros.and use a stick too idle up in winter.It might set the chech engine light on though,i will pull the little bulb,or put black tape over light.it probbly dont hurt the mix anyway as you can adjust air voluem with the butterflys.Or plug the iac wire intoo an extra iac,so the computor thinks all is normal,may have too ground the extra iac case. THEM motor would probbly go 300 thousand if they dident idle so fast on cold starts.
As far as I know, the idle air control takes its air from the same air cleaner as the rest of the air. Meaning if you block off the horn, it should stall the motor, period.
I think what may have happened is you have a vacuum leak somewhere (the whistling sound), and the motor was able to run on just that leaking air by reducing the fuel flow (similar to Wayne’s hybrid mode). When you suddenly added more air by removing your hand, it didn’t increase the fuel to match, so it stalled.
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Chris; I believe you were correct. I went around the base of the tbi with a propane torch ( without a flame_) and found no signs of a leak. I took a hollow tube and listened to the tbi. Nothing. But with the tube I found that the noise was not a whistle but a whine — coming from the alternator. I started the engine up with the air cleaner off. I placed a plastic bag over the intake to the tbi. It stalled the engine immediately and “popped” a hole in the plastic. Good vacuum. Put the air cleaner back on and covered the entry with the plastic bag. The engine slowed but did not die. I started around the air cleaner and right away found leaks. After studying, it did not appear that the leaks were very bad but I have brazed them up and we will see tomorrow.TomC
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Well a new day and a new problem. I laid the top of the air cleaner on my flat metal weld bench and low and behold, it wasn’t laying flat. It would rock a little bit. I placed it back on the bottom half and although it appeared to fit correctly, when I pinched the lip between the top and bottom, it would pick up the other side. Making a long story short ( not something I do well) after a lot of playing (?) I got it to lay flat. Put in an “o” ring that I had, put it on the truck, and was able to stall the engine by putting my hand over the horn. Never been able to completely stall the engine before so I wonder how long this has been a problem. I wonder, you guys who have had back fires and stomped your air cleaner back into shape, how did you get away with it.TomC
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Well as a famous guy says often on youtube; “run’n on wood! run’n good” After a long several weeks I went back out on the road. SWEM !!!
Now onto my speedometer. I have been looking up on you tube and found there is a gizmo in a GM that you can adjust the speedo for different size tires or changing rear ends and anything else that would affect your speedo. Just got to figure out how to test everything.I put in a new dash that has a tach and the speedo is doing the same thing so it is under the truck somewhereTomC
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Hey Tom, can’t help you with your speedo but you said something that caught my interest when you were lookin for leaks on you system! I’ve used different kinds of spray flammables to find leaks in intakes etc but never propane, good idea, is that what finally told you had a leaky air cleaner cover?
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