Hey, they improved the temperature forecast for our area a bit: Only 2 nights with temps below -20°F, instead of 3.
That’s withOUT windchill.
Good thing all our pipes are buried 8 ft underground!
Thanks again Pete; I’m going to go for the ones Al suggested. Maybe longer than I think before I need them with this temperature going so low. Last night I was in the shop and it was fairly comfortable in there. I shut the heat off about 15 minutes before I was ready to leave. The room cooled down so fast I had to snap to and get to the house. Thanks again Pete; TomC
Those thermocouplers are not marked ungrounded, if they are grounded, they will not work on a shared ground system. I don’t think the read out matters as long as they are 12v neg ground.
I think both you and I would be able give Max a call just fine if we only had his name and/or number.
Actually, Kristijan and I never talked on the phone. That would probably be too much to ask of our skills Formulating a sentence in English is one thing. Having your tounge and throat converting it to something understandable is a challange. Those muscles are not used to produce English sounds. Try grab the hatchet with your left hand to chop chunks. You know exactly what to do, but the outcome…
On my slide in unit I use a dual remote barbecue thermometer. In the Ranger I use the exhaust type K couplers, I like the set up in the Ranger much better.
I think it is time for a review of Carl Zinn’s posting on thermocouples; Here you go Andy, All our standard use TC’s only have 2 wires and the grounded designation means the TC is connected to the case. They will not work with the cheap digital readouts because they power off of the 12 truck power that has negative connected to the chassie.
TomC
PS The yellow HF meter is the one I have that times out on me and I was looking to mofify.
I don’t think the problem was in grounded or non-grounded thermocouples themselves but in the READER. Most all readers have to have power to them to run the digital display. In the yellow meter above, it contains a 9 v battery to run the display. The reader above that is just a display, you have to provide a power source to it. If you hook it up the the (+) and (-) of the car you interrupt the read out. If you take a separate battery and hook the + and - from the battery to the reader everything is fine. This is where the problem of “grounding” comes into play. TomC
Al, I’m not experience with TC’s but I have used them on my truck and had to work my way through problems. I am wondering, when you did the test with grounded and un-grounded TC’s were you running the reader off from the vehicle battery or a separate battery? TomC
Off the trucks 12v system. I have found the ones on Ebay described as exhaust temp. use are ungrounded , these are what I use on the Ranger, with the cheap blue, and red read outs
Al; you have confused me. I believe under the thread “Grounded and ungrounded thermocouples Again” you said about what I have been saying; the problem is when the meter’s power source is hooked to the vehicle battery. In this thread, you are saying that hooking the meter up to the car battery works ok. Is this some special "exhaust temp " meter? Could you give us where on E-bay you are getting them. TomC
Tom, on my Geo Tracker I could not make the thermocouple readers work either when powered by the vehicle electrical system. After I used a garden tractor battery that I recharged separately from time to time the readers performed perfectly. Carl Zinn used a small 12v to 120 inverter and plugged in a 120v to 12v converter (power supply for electronics) to isolate his TC readers from the vehicle electrical system.
Al, can you also tell me where you got your reader? I am not going out to the shop until this weather turns around. In the mean time I will try to buy a TC that you recommended. TomC
Hi Tom, I made a wire diagram of how my K type thermocouple and temperature read out meter is hooked up for my grate. It is the same for the hopper, cooling rails.