Tom,this what I used, it can switched from C to F . https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Temperature-Thermocouple-Sensors-Celcius/dp/B00V25HRA8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1548910211&sr=8-5&keywords=12v+temperature+display+k+type or this https://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-DC-Temperature-Meter-for-K-Type-EGT-Probe-with-Blue-LED-12V-F/380884091854?hash=item58ae7603ce:g:HsYAAOSw3pVZv2Vg:rk:12:pf:0
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It most like won’t work by doing any mods. It probably senses buttons to turn on then shuts off after like 60x after last keypress. The best you could really hope for is a 555timer that you could unsolder, but it is highly unlikely. You might be able to find the number on the chipset and figure out how to reprogram it, but if it isn’t something common it could be really tricky.
You can also use an arduino or raspberryPi.
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Here is a build on YouTube that I hadn’t seen before. He has some basic ideas but I fear he has some really big problems ahead. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=522BaxM0Jnk&fbclid=IwAR1F6Oe5QW-10CaHkUUHcmKPSA6vrsIv10Dv9k9ddGkPSYpQrTgovptGS-k TomC
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I think you are right Tom. It’s almost disinformation for the uninformed who will come across it.
He should be using charcoal for that small engine for one big thing.
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I agree totally.
Before I found DOW I watched quite a few of these shiny new “gasifiers “ that probably ran for maybe an hour before the motor or filter would be plugged.
I even got to experiance some of that myself.
Now if I don’t see some soot and tar around the filler neck I don’t believe it!
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Thanks for the video Mr. Tom
I watched and then read the comments . I found them very entertaining 
I wish the young man could come to Argos and let a few of us give him a ride on wood gas . ( not to be confused with wood smoke )
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Wow! 229,000 views on that video alone and he has 1.4 MILLION subscribers! You don’t have to be accurate or truthful to make money on youtube. If my own stats are any gauge, he has already made at least $400 of that video
It’s “entertain” not “educate”. Too bad.
Pete Stanaitis
-------------------.
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Tom i think he needs a little more dark matter in the reactor. like Wayne Said wood smoke and properly made wood gas is two completely different fuels.
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Man this was painfull to wach. Poor engine. People like that can do so much damage.
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Tom, and all DOW,
It really says something great about the people on this forum, that they immediately catch all the problems with “nighthawkinlight’s” bike engine gasifier. If he started with that design, then showed all the trouble soon coming, I would have more respect for him and his YouTube channel. His channel is popular, he has followed the successful formula of showing a lot of cool stuff, (some of which blows up…) One of his videos has 20 MILLION views. That is why he can do anything and get a good audience. Hopefully, frustrated enthusiasts will do more research and end up here! 
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The sad thing is, if 3 people “invest” in his system, already the most motivated 1%, you’d probably be lucky if one tries again and searches out real expertise. Most people will just figure they can’t do it and chalk it up as a loss.
Buddy is doing a great disservice, actually diminishing the potential wood gas group.
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And now we know how the Stock Market works…
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Hello Fellow Woodgasers: I’m back with more electrical questions. I have my infamous Kirby sweeper to pull a draft at start up. It runs off 110 volts so I have an extension cord mounted on my truck to use to plug it in when I am near a socket. When I’m not near a sock, I bought a HF two stroke generator. The other day I wanted to saw some wood with my skill saw before I got electricity to my shop. I knew that the saw pulled 10 amps which was over the generator limit. Of course, I smoked my generator.
Now I would like to put an inverter in the truck to hook it to. Some where here, I thought someone posted that by pulling 110 v off the inverter and then converting that to 12 V DC they could run the thermocouples and the temp. readers, without the problem of a common ground to the truck and thermocouples. Does anyone have any information on that. I’m afraid my 12 v DC battery that I used for the TC readers has gone dead waiting for my to get things back together. TomC
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Tom, Instead of jumping through all those hoops, why not try one of these. It is an isolated, 12 volt DC/DC converter. Connect the input to your truck’s 12 volt system, with a fuse and switch. Connect the output to your thermocouple readers. This thing is good for about an amp out, should be enough. Arrow is a reliable vendor. Looks like it has screw terminals. 
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ddr-15g-12/mean-well-enterprises
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I’m with Mike. No reason crossing the river to collect water.
Btw, are you sure your genny is smoked? I think mine is the same type and it has taken quite a lot of abuse. I’ve blown the fuse many times trying to rev up a small saw or the grinder.
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Thank you guys; Mike I understand the word “isolation” so it sounds like something I’m looking for if I go directly from my 12 v batter. I didn’t see any connectors on it. Does it have 3 or 4 connectors? If it has 3, I would assume it has a “+in”, “+out” and a common ground. If it has 4 then I would assume it has “+in”, “+out” and 2 individual grounds. The 4 wire, I could understand working without a common ground.
Good point JO; I knew when I used the saw that I could be looking for trouble. When it happened, I’m not sure, but I thought to myself, I rolled the dice and lost and put it in the corner. I’m on my way to the shop now, and I will check the overload switch-- there must be one.
PS JO; You asked if we had vehicle inspections— no. It would take a large portion of the vehicles off the road, from rust.
Thanks for the replies TomC
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It sounds like you still want an inverter to provide AC power to the blower. Seems like a simple matter, especially for a smaller motor. For something like that I would probably go with a 1,000 watt pure sinewave inverter, instead of the cheaper modified square wave ones, which do not provide full RMS power to the motor. Modified square wave is likely best for shaded pole motors or resistive heating, incandescent bulbs, low grade applications, most of which are better done with straight DC.
It would be nice to have significant onboard AC power, 3,000W should be sufficient to start a skil saw, but price ramps up for true sinewave.
Probably best to have a second battery in parallel, supposing there’s space under the hood?
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1200 watts 120v times 10 amps. A little bigger would be better
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Tom, as far as I can tell from the description, this dc/dc converter has 2 screw terminals to connect a 12 volt (your truck 12v) positive and negative. It has 2 screw terminals to connect your thermocouple readers to, positive and negative. The two sides of the converter are totally electrically isolated from each other. The converter mounts to a DIN rail, which is probably not included. (available at a good electric supply) You don’t have to use the DIN rail, or even mount it to anything, just tuck it in a corner or under the seat. It should stay out of the weather. There are many other choices to perform this function, I just picked this one as cost-effective and would do the job. I should get one myself and try it out!
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To you fellows who are using a 55 gal drum lid as a puffer relief with screen door spring holding it— do you do anything special to the lid or the drum connection to keep them from leaking? TomC
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