The 4" nozzle OD heavy gage pipe should work great. I will cut the end out of this tank for the 6" bowl and weld the bolt to the bottom. The nut will be weld with some spacers in side the pipe and have a long bolt going through the bottom air box and seal to lock the nozzle in position for the proper height.
I think I will just go out the sides of the barrel lower down for gas out and have a removal hopper like with the barrel I am using in the picture. Need to go clean out a couple more barrel and start cutting the barrel in the picture is for my other gasifier that I am trying to find free parts for. I have now one finish gasifier double flute and now three others not finish trying to find parts. What fun we are having on DOW. RIGHT!
Bob this is going to be an interesting project, I see you intend to mount the spinning disk below, you probably intend to cut a lot more holes than I did, which is only three, because above that disk can scrape and shed a lot of material, well, for a short crank movement, more openings are required. If you think about it, you can also put this disc inside and make a cut out on the side for the shaker lever.
Yes this is interesting. I think I’ll wait until one of you guys figures out how large an engine it will fuel. I’m looking for something easier to build than a WK for high load, low rpm use around the homestead using a Dodge 360 cu in engine. Never has to go out on the road. Only washing machine basket I have is enameled steel. Can’t see how that would matter.
Tone, you have a good point here. The rotation of the disk would be better if it was on top. My drawing on the same paper erased had that with a slot cut in the side of the stainless steel tub for the lever to come out by the clean out hatch opening. I agree the disk moving the charcoal/ashes back and forth to the holes opening will work better. Easy to erase the drawing and change it back . lol making changes on paper is a lot easier than after it has been built. Thanks for your insights.
Hi Tom, the nozzle I am using if open up to a greater spacing between the bowl and nozzle will run a 440 cu. In. engine or larger. Or smaller if you close down the gap between the bowl and nozzle. Well that’s the plan. The idea of building one charcoal gasifier unit that will run different size engines makes sense. Kinda like changing out the restriction plate opening in a wood gasifier for different cu. In. or liter size engines.
If you need more fuel just stack another barrel on top or half a barrel.
New modified drawing with ash disk with scalpers bars on top of bottom of the stainless steel tub.
There will be 4 holes 3" for ashes to fall through so the side to side motion can be less moving the lever handle. Made the ash/charcoal clean out hatch larger
5" H × 7" W for the lever handle movement.
This is getting clearer to me Bob. I am confused by the Change in the depth of the air in box to the 5 inch space on the right side. Also wondering about there being enough heat in that box to vaporize the water drip. Could you make a separate drawing of what’s going on on the gas out side? I’m sure these things will be clearer if you get to an actual build. Thanks for the work you are putting into it.
Mr. Tom, I’m not a fan either, for adding water, a better choice is to mix wood with charcoal, which creates a moist atmosphere above, well, if adding water is necessary, it is necessary to use the temperature of the generated gases to evaporate and superheat the steam, so they will the gases cool down and the steam overheats to a high temperature, that is, you need another jacket made of thin sheet metal, which would surround the hot part of the gasifier, here the air would be preheated and the water would evaporate, an air duct would be built inside, on the opposite side of the door for cleaning. It’s just an opinion.
Hi Tom and Tone, I have been running my other Charcoal gasifiers normally by the proven KristijanL method of using 10% or less moisture in the Charcoal fuel. This is super simple and I am all for that. How ever the water drip will only be used if the exit gas temps start to get to high when running at high end full load of the gasifier. Sorry I did not give a explanation of the purpose of the water drip. In the pass a test when running my double flute gasifier at maximum load when I hooked up to my 5.2 liter Dakota truck cooling system and running it at 2500 rmps. the gasifier got hot, so I used a squirter bottle of water and spraying into the air intake it cooled the gasifier down. I noticed the rpms went higher. Humm , … Hydrogen gases are being made mixing with the normal gases, but by adding a lot more water it cooled it down to a point and it stopped the reaction, and the rps. of the engine went back down to 2500 rpms previously set, this is because no extra Hydrogen was being made obviously.
So this is going to be my Hydrogen boosting I will use in short time burst like going up hill when I need it at full load on the gasifier. This is more of my experimental thing I am trying. Might use a power sprayer into the intake. So do not take it as a proven fact yet. Lol. This Charcoal unit will be designed to be able to thermal over load. My double flute gasifier was designed the same way so water drip intake is necessarily for protection of the unit. On my WK Gasifier I have this protection built into it so I can not over pull my gasifier. And believe me I have tested it out on so very hot summer days driving the the 92 Dakota truck. I did it by resticting the air intake on the top end of driving speed of the truck. This causes a very high vaccum pull by the 5.2 liter engine. The 45 plus vaccum is very hard on my plastic hayfilter that has wooden reinforcement disk inside of it. Draw back is this a much slower speed gain from 75 mph and higher.
I trying a different approach with the Charcoal gasifiers. Hope this makes it clear of what I am trying to do here in these Charcoal gasifier builds. A lot of my experimental things I do never get posted here. Some what for my own personal information that it is being done. If it turns out to being beneficial to DOW, I will then post it. Believe me I have tried a lot of worthless things in my life. Lol. Not worth posting, but for a good laugh or two is what it is worth.
The 5"×7" is the clean out hatch cover opening on the right. The air intake box is 2"×4" for bottom clearances for the bottom locking nut to the heigth adjustment rod of the nozzle. Sorry for the confusing drawing. Lots of erased marks on the paper.
I appreciate the above explanations and the work you have put into the drawing Bob. I have an older gasifier I may be able to convert to something like this design without a lot of trouble. Just waiting to see if you or Tone do a build. I’m just a copier. Winter could come at any time now. Last year we got 20 inches of snow on Nov 1. I’m mostly involved in getting my fire wood cut and processed. Should finally have some time for more fun stuff after that.
