Two local places that sell Stihl Rindert. Neither had those hoses. OEM just the bottom hose is 14 bucks. Top and bottom, over 20. The replacement I got off Amazon, though not right, was 7 bucks with a new filter. If you tried to build one of those saws buying all the parts it would probably cost you 2 thousand bucks. Anyway I cut part of the tube off a new can of expanding foam and made a stent out of it. Can still fish the filter out even with the repair. Now to change the oil pump on the Husqvarna. That saw has been sitting on the bench for a year because I hate working on things with little parts.
5 Likes
I have a fancy wrap around one work got me. Its ok but i use the one i made out of thick gasket 90 % of the time. Im just more comfortable with it. But the ideal of ring compressor is a great ideal especially if doing multiples of same size. Set up for slip fit and go to town
5 Likes
Watch out when buying fuel lines on the web, many that are manufactured in China doesn’t withstand any percentage of ethanol in the gas, they just cracks or dissolves.
Im not saying use original parts, just pointing it out, so anyone are aware of it. (It’s good to know if hoses are cumbersome to replace)
Some of these hoses has gone bad because of ONE shot of ether/starting fluid under the carb “hood”. (I never use ethanol gas in any chainsaw)
8 Likes
Originally got into this situation because the saw will not run with gas older than about 4 months and I didn’t run it dry last time I used it. I thought maybe the jet was clogged so I stuck the tube from the carb cleaner in the line and gave it a squirt. That split the rubber line. If the replacement doesn’t last, at least I have the procedure for pulling the saw apart down now. I just need to get busy cutting and I like this saw better than my other ones.
7 Likes
I have a John deere chainsaw that was made in Japan ( complicated story )
Canadian gasoline in the days of the energy crisis was made of some bad stuff that would rot fuel lines,eat the traces off Ford tank fuel senders and and leave a film in carbs ( I would put it on par with Cuban gasoline today LOL )
All old fuel lines should be suspect and changed is my point
4 Likes
That sounds like the gas we get in Sweden today, eats carbs and diaphragms, even the ethanol free gas…
Small engines i like to use periodically, lawn mower, chainsaws, outboard engines, i always use alcylate fuel (aspen) much more expensive, but it stays good for years, (important when you own over 100 chainsaws and can’t run them regularly)
Lawnmower and outboard runs on ordinary fuel during season, last tank / run before storing always on alcylate.
7 Likes
Hi Goren,
Exactly what I do also. Use the common pump gasoline (here E-10; sometimes actually sneaky summer E15) during my 4-stroke small engines use season.
But that last tank used or left in I only use expensive drive far to get non-ethanol for-marine gasoline. Ugg.
I just refilled two five gallon cans and one 2 1/2 gallon can with marine 87 RON gasoline. $6.00+ a gallon. $75 dollar limited per purchase here.
And yes. My chainsaws only see 89 or 92 octane ethanol free marine gasoline. And this higher-octane stuff is $7.00+ to $8.00 a gallon USD here.
S.U.
8 Likes
More of an info bulletin. I asked the Master Technician at work who’s wheelhouse is transmissions. I was wondering if the new Dextron was safe for the old GM TH automatics.
He said Yes Definitely, Dextron/Mercon 3&6 is good for them, if not better than the original ATF they used.
6 Likes
Non-ethanol is pretty easy to find here. We have it in our small town grocery-gas station. It’s about 75 cents per gallon more than the E-10, but that is 87 Octane and the pure is 90 so there would be one reason for the cost. I also made a rig to get the ethanol out. Just a couple of plastic orange juice jugs glued together and hung in a frame with a little ball valve in the bottom cap. The ethanol will separate and can be drained out of the bottom container but then you now have 10 per cent less overall volume so that about makes up the price difference. Not really worth it for the effort involved.
5 Likes
The Swede is onto a good thing
Not sure about USA but you can also buy aspen fuel here
3 Likes
@tcholton717 ,
Please remember that the E10 gasoline feed stock is 50 octane. The ethanol raises the octane rating. If you are like me, and running a Dualfuel Farmall with low compression then low octane gasoline is irrelevant. Engines that detonate, on the other hand, won’t like 50 octane.
5 Likes
Had no idea that gasoline could even be 50 octane. They recommend adding a cup of water to a gallon of the gas to capture the alcohol. I don’t know any way to get the water out of the alcohol to make the alcohol useful. No one on line doing this procedure mentions the significant drop in octane. I get alcohol free gas a mile and a half down the road so as I said, not worth the trouble.
5 Likes
The name Gasoline in our countries goes back to the days when it was a by product from Kerosene refining.
You were more likely to get it from a pharmacy ( Part of the reason they were called the Chemist too lol ).
Anyhow early gas was suck a wide cut product with so little done to it its octane was not even a consideration.
If your old enough to remember white gas used in presure lanterns and stoves thats about the only thing gasoline was used for.
Up until the 1940s gasoline had nothing much done to it as I said before cars ran around 4 or 5 to 1 compression is all you could manage.
TEL and MTL ( lead ) were developed to raise the compression because the amount of Ethanol needed ( and that’s what Henry Ford thought should be added to gasoline as a foot note ) to get it to manageable compression.
Still this low grade leaded gas was in the 80 octane range, that was straight run gas from the distillation tower…
Hydro cracking was a pressure catalyst method developed in the 1940s and used mostly in the USA in the early war years. ( also catalyst process to convert low octanes into isomers )
This made a much better feed stock for gasoline because the refiners could a much more predicable product.
Up until then you were getting gasoline that was quite variable depending on the oil source so you had to assume it was low low octane.
Hydro cracking changed that and now you could add just the right amount of lead to make relay high octane predictable gasoline and you could build high performance engines for aircraft.
To get 50 octane gas up to something useful you really would need to be adding as much as 30% ethanol and you would still have a lot of problems with how this burns and behaves in an engine and its fuel system.
So today we have a lot of ways to convert what are oils into gasoline and we can triple the amount of gasoline and diesel we get from a drum of oil compared to simple distillation.
Oh ya I can’t speak for most places where you buy gas but only we call it gas here on this side of the pond.
The English call it petrol the French call it Essence, and most people in slavic countries and Germany call it Benzine or Benzina…
If you are old enough you will look at this video and recognize LEADED gasoline.
This fellow is trying to refine his own camping gas.
Why would you do this?
lead of course is bad for your lantern…
This is what the gas looks like in Cuba.
You want to make a friend at the marina???
When you holiday bring some fuel filters and spark plugs.
They tour boat guy will take you to the best fishing spots and remember you .
You stay in touch with them and go back year after year and bring them stuff like that with you.
Those guys will bend over backwards for you.
The gas they burn there is poorly refined and made from really dirty heavy crude from Venezuela.
Its hard on carbs…
This is a Coleman 236.
I was designed in the 1930s at the Toronto plant and at a time when all gas was lead free and very different from what we use today.
In fact it so different that this lantern does not work very well on Coleman fuel, the product si too highly refined and makes the light flicker.
7 Likes
The poor quality fuels pre WW2 and paraffin engine oils is why Marvel Mystery Oil was created. Initially just a fuel additive and some mechanics found out it worked really good as a degunker and seal swelling agent at a 20% replacement.
3 Likes
My source was from two places. First was excerpt from a fuel refining text book. The second was a FAA bulletin about why small aircraft engines are forbidden from using 87 octane pump gasoline.
If you want the alcohol back, fire up the distillation column. They sell some excellent ones on AliExpress.
@Wallace TEL was developed in conjunction with Standard Oil, Charles Kettering, and Thomas Midgley JR. They used the data gathered by Sir Harry Ricardo (variable compression engine). 1921.
Tom, if you want some of the octane rating back add old school mothballs. NOT, paradichloro, but the old formula with the double benzene rings. Benzene rings have a high octane rating. They barely dissolve in gasoline and won’t help too much, but they are cheap.
An interesting experiment would be to find out which cheap solvent actually dissolves mothballs. I’d laugh my butt off if it was something like Methanol or methyl ester (biodiesel).
5 Likes
Some good information here.
As it comes from the pump fresh and new today’s gas is probably as good as you can hope for.
It just doesn’t have a shelf life, so keep it fresh and rotate and your not in trouble.
Also adding things to gasoline to enhance it is kind of like mixing paint for a job.
Fresh from the station its as light, clean and pristine as your going to get.
Everything you add will darken it so to speak…
If we go back to that Coleman lantern, the 236 I found that they run best on cheap unleaded gasoline with Ethanol, sometimes add a little more ethanol to lean them and they worked the best ( with age and use jets wear out )
But it does not keep you have to burn it and then put some WD40 in the tank to prevent rust.
A can of 50 octane coleman fuel however is so highly refined it will last forever it seems and it does not cause things to rust.
I bet in a pinch you could mix things like Xylene and Camping fuel and make a shelf stable gasoline substitute that could sit for years and years on the shelf.
But there already is a product on the shelf that’s stable and that’s where our Swedish friend comes back into my final gasoline comment.
He is using that Alkylate gasoline…
Its not corrosive or highly solvent or reactive with oxygen so its stable on the shelf.
Also its very very clean with few additives in it.
Best of both worlds high octane like aromatic and clean burning like like light naptha
4 Likes
Hopefully, after I get all my fire wood in, I can get back to messing with the methanol still Bruce. I have a fair amount of 3 and 4 inch pvc. Would using that for a distillation column be a bad plan? I don’t think I’ll be ordering anything shipped directly from China though it would probably be cheaper in the long run. I would like to be able to make a quantity of methanol. I have made a few ounces of methanol with a pot still I made from a SS pressure cooker. The pressure cooker part is irrelevant. Here is really how simple it can be as an experiment. I did not use dry wood so maintain a temperature range was more important than in this video method.
3 Likes
You would want stainless steel or copper.
There’s lots of US made kits you can get like from Mile High Distillery and a million others. They’re adaptable to a standard milk can.
However I don’t know if the seals would withstand wood destructive distilling temps.
Might Be best to make a 55 gallon or 30 gallon drum still for wood alcohol production and nothing else. Consider it a retort and methanol still.
Edit: after you’ve got the rough stuff out test it with an alcoholometer spec hydrometer and you could distill it at lower temps with a milk can still. The copper will act like a catalyst for impurities.
4 Likes
Cooks around 170F Cody.
3 Likes
I’ve only ever done liquid distillation like for essential oils and regular fuel ethanol so dry distilling is a brave new world to me.
2 Likes