I think you can get those, they plug in before the router to the wall.
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Sure you can do that. I have an old vacuum cleaner that I use as a blower for various things I do. Black is hot when you’re talking AC so I would put it in that wire. Here is my blower, putting air to my forge.
Rindert
Warning. Use rheostats only on brush type motors. You will kill an AC motor it you put it on a rheostat. If you don’t know what I’m talking about it’s safest to just use on/off switches.
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Anvils made from Railroad Rail Sections:
I hope this is not too far off topic, but it IS about fabrication.
I recently made one more railroad rail anvil. This one is a bit different, since I am trying to make the anvil’s horn as strong as possible:
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Maybe he is intoo BLACK MAJIC-- i seen those BS claims before, if it did some how roltate both motors, it would take a thousand of them too have usable power left over, most likley.
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Ditch the flux core and use stainless wire (308l works for most) and pick up a small bottle of tri-gas. back shielding is mostly necessary when the welds must be perfect and free of contaminants (i.e. food grade piping). do not shield with the 75/25 it must contain argon. if you have much to do, a cheap tig would be a worth while investment.
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A little tip, so easy probably all know it already, but if only one like it, it’s worth sharing 
Showeling chunks or charcoal in a bag can be cumbersome, especially if one uses net-bags like i prefer to. It can be a real pita, you need atleast four hands to hold them bags open…
All thats needed is a plastic bucket without bottom (usually fixes itself if left outside during freezing temperatures
)Some binding wire as hook’s (yellow arrow)
This bag-bucket can be hanged from a rope, or standing with help from some wooden legs.
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Another tip if someone missed it: sometimes i have noticed i’ve needed a flushing port, or for inspection, drilling a hole is’nt a problem, but sometimes it’s cumbersome to weld a threaded bung or like, to close the hole when not in use.
On cooler parts of gasifier systems these works extremely well: expanding plug, used for marine applications.
Can be found fairly cheap on boat supply stores (in Sweden-Biltema)
These fits in both sheet metal and thicker pieces, just drill a proper size hole.
Made of sea-water resistant brass, don’t corrode by woodgas.
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Tip:
If you put dry teabags in your boots they will absorb the odor, but the tea tastes so bad that it’s almost not worth it.
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I feel relieved i only drink coffee 
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Is there is consensus on a good cheap HHO generator? At some point, I am going to need a small torch that can melt high temp silver solder (minimum of 1,325°F (718°C) ), and I don’t want to store or use gas like propane or mapp inside as I don’t have the right ventilation.
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Has anyone considered getting a Flange Tool for better barrel fitment? I know usually we have the ribs as a guide but there are often times the measurements don’t line up with the ribs.
I was helping dad do some bodywork on his friends early 50s Cadillac Fleetwood Sedan and the flange tool was surprisingly good with contours. I’m going to buy one for myself to try out on barrels.
Astro 605ST ONYX Straight Type Punch/Flange Tool https://a.co/d/gcMcjyr
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now thats a smart idea, never thought to use one for that purpose
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I really want to see if it’ll fit tight like a stove pipe, and simply silicone glue the barrels together for a hopper. Maybe punch holes for bolts. I ordered one just now, supposed to get here Friday. I’ll see how it treats the curvature of the barrel.
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Thats a neat idea, if i ever get time too try charco power tiny car, i will remember that ides, And it would actualy help with loading wood chunks as well./and yes coffee sounds great too me, /except i am useing raw cacoa, un pasterized or raw, because it helps open the areries, and coffee retricts the arteries. I am almost 64 years old and since coved railled on through ,i somtimes feel more like 74 years old. Cocoa seems better fit in my ageing years. Though it do have caffene.
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Thats a sweet idea! The good barrels are a lot thicker than body panels though. (Maybe not the 50s caddy)
How well will the tool work on something that thick? Will the offset be sufficient for thaat thickness? Will it stretch the metal enough to allow for the slightly larger (or compress smaller) diameter of the barrel?
I guess you could flange in on one side of the joint, and flange out the mating barrel.
Let us know how it works out.
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You could always use it one way on the upper barrel and the other on the lower. i.e. flange it in on upper and flange it out on lower…
That might make a the required room to slide the barrels together. Depending on the gauge if the barrel matterial.
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That Caddy had to be at least 16ga on the fender where we were flanging, and it lapped up pretty good. We weren’t using the model I linked though, it was the one sold at Northern Tool.
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Hi Sean. I once built one for just that purpose. I think l used 12 stainless plates. The goal is to have enaugh “neutral” plates to get about 2v on each, as voltage gets divided by the number of neutral plates.
I used NaOH solution. Also l added a washing machine water pump to circulate the solution, it realy boosted production because it submerget the whole plates and it cooled the thing better. It produced a tiny flame but insanely hot. It melts rocks and stuff in a moment.
If you intend to weld with it its important to bubble the gas trugh something like gasoline of acetone. The vapour makes the flame more reducing
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i have a question about cyclone filters…someone,when i remember right, don mannes@ has used on his lawn tractor…
what is the advantage?
better cooling effect?
what is the effect about filtering - because the speed drops down when not is used smaller diameters on the cyclon?
thanks for answers…ciao giorgio
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