Tools, Tips and Tricks

Excellent work on the repair!! Expect nothing less from you Tone.
“Were there is a will…there is a way!” :smiley:

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Chris, if I did it right, it will show time and performance under load, I hope your words apply. :grinning:

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Tom, I am in the process of buying a fiberlaser from China. I dont understand how it can be safe out in the open. Machines are sold with CE. I think that means China Export instead of some safety… :grinning:
But the same company sells the laser welders and cleaners. How can that be safely operated? CO2 laser is dangerous but a fiber makes you blind immediately. I would dare anyway, but it looks good.

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Hi Joep, actually, there are a marking like that, that means china export, look it up on youtube.
Made by purpose to look like the CE approval marking…
I saw it first time on a cheap lightsource, made all of metal and safety grounded, inside the housing the yellow and green wire was just hanging loose, no place to attach it…electrical safety…
I managed to clamp the wire in the lid for the connection box wich was lucky, this halogen source later blew the fuse, one of the socket connections had come loose and touched the metal housing.

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Yes, we can make fun of it , China Export. But a fiberlaser is serious shit and you wont get a second change.

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tone, nice work…after hardening -cherry red? - how high you temper the gear?
what electrodes you use?
ciao giorgio

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Giorgio, I used e-dur 600 electrodes here High alloyed electrodes for hardfacing | SIJ Elektrode , well, the gears are made of an improvement material that is hardened at the factory, but during welding, changes occur in this part and it is necessary to heat the whole piece evenly to cherry red and immerse it in oil, it is better to have a slightly lower hardness than to have too much, it would be ideal to heat the surface of the gear by induction and thus obtain hardness on the surface, and greater toughness inside

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If anybody needs some bulk inner and outer choke cable Taryl Dactyl sells inner wire by the 100 Foot roll and outer conduit by the 50 foot roll.

I don’t know if there’s better deals out there, I’m sure there are.

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visa

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Tell us more. What’s that huge auger for?

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To make a 2 MW/h biomass boiler more efficient, I install a larger Archimederan screw…

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Now I see it! Pitch is not constant over the length! Wow, nice piece of work :grinning:

You can buy loose blades, no problem. I just did for a costumer. The stock screwblade was to thin in his opinion. Ok, we make a special one for you :grinning:. Special price of course…

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Cody, I have made control cables using SS thin gauge cable and liners from MIG welders or plastic tubing. For my non-critical uses, the replacement of a mower, tiller controls, or our wood furnace draft and damper, they hold up OK.
Kent

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That’s some amazing work Francois. I don’t have a clue about how I would go about making those shapes, even with the jig you made for your press.

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Francois, Thats a lot of btu per hour. I would love to see pictures of the boiler. What do you use all the heat for?

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It is a boiler of two MW/h, with hot water, to circulate in a dryer belt finally to remove the humidity from the sawdust to manufacture pellets.

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Here I have spliced a dimmer switch into a short extension cord. The volt meter gives me an indication of how hot the soldering iron is going to be.
Rindert

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Tell me about rheostats and electric motors. I am wanting to make a filter with a blower out of a 5 gal shop vac. I want to vary the blower speed but I find conflicting information on-line about whether connecting the motor to a rheostat would damage the motor or not.

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A router speed control should work for a universal motor like on a shop vac.

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Is there a router speed control that is a separate component, like something you would attach to a router table and then plug the router into?

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